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  • #91
    adam215.... How big of a box are you planning? How high will the tweeter need to be to be near ear level? Any round-overs planned?

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    • #92
      Here's the ne180 file that was supposed to be posted above
      Attached Files
      John H

      Synergy Horn, SLS-85, BMR-3L, Mini-TL, BR-2, Titan OB, B452, Udique, Vultus, Latus1, Seriatim, Aperivox,Pencil Tower

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      • #93
        Originally posted by rpb View Post
        adam215.... How big of a box are you planning? How high will the tweeter need to be to be near ear level? Any round-overs planned?
        Sorry, I was at work... I can make the box as big as needs be and the tweeter is just slightly above ear level

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        • #94
          Originally posted by rpb View Post
          Made a few sims with new frds. Here's one of them.
          This looks really good, when you guys think that the design looks good, I'll build them and post a build thread

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          • #95
            Originally posted by rpb View Post
            adam215.... How big of a box are you planning? How high will the tweeter need to be to be near ear level? Any round-overs planned?
            The box can be up to about 18 " tall and 12 inches deep. Ear level would be 10 inches up in the box

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            • #96
              I know that you plan to use a sub, but do want to port these, or use a sealed box? Even the ported box size is small.

              How fancy, or plain do you plan to build? (My speakers are very ugly usually. They get altered a lot for driver swaps, etc..)

              Will you be allowed to keep the x-overs external for a few weeks connected with jumpers while you try different x-overs?

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              • #97
                Another potential x-over.

                Click image for larger version

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                • #98
                  Woodworking is more my forte so eventually the final product should be pretty nice. I thought sealed would be better as they will be fairly close to the wall but if a from Port is an option then I would be ok with that as well

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                  • #99
                    Woodworking is more my forte so eventually the final product should be pretty nice. I thought sealed would be better as they will be fairly close to the wall but if a front Port is an option then I would be ok with that as well

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                    • Originally posted by adam215 View Post
                      Woodworking is more my forte so eventually the final product should be pretty nice. I thought sealed would be better as they will be fairly close to the wall but if a front Port is an option then I would be ok with that as well
                      This speaker could be really small if you wanted it to be. There's something neat about that sometimes. I like to have plenty of room in the box to line it with dense fiberglass, and to make it easier to get a big x-over in the box. That way, the coils can be further apart, and potentially interact less. If you used dual connectors on the back of the box for speaker wires, you could have external x-overs somewhere between the amp, and speakers. I think sloped baffles with big round-overs looks interesting, and have some acoustic benefits. If you are good at woodworking, I suspect that you can knock out some "test boxes" rather easily. Most of the x-over sims I've come up with use about 11 parts. Someone may come up with a 6 part x-over that would also work, but not measure quite as flat. You might, or might not hear much difference between the two. Me, I'd probably go sealed, and make the external dimensions much larger than needed, and partition the inside, or add solid filler to adjust the volume that the woofer sees.
                      Last edited by rpb; 08-10-2019, 10:53 AM.

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                      • Here's a wacky idea / shortcut. If you listen to just the woofers with no tweeter, you might be able to get a good idea of approximately how much baffle step compensation you want. You could easily do this with your test box, before prepping it for a tweeter. This filter layout is very simple with 6 parts. You can adjust part values to change the tonal balance. You can also see how they blend with the sub. I would be primarily listening to vocals, and bass, while ignoring the very top end, and resolution. All that would obviously improve when the tweeter is added.

                        Click image for larger version  Name:	rough idea.jpg Views:	1 Size:	478.3 KB ID:	1419087

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                        • Originally posted by rpb View Post
                          Another potential x-over.

                          Click image for larger version

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ID:	1419042
                          this looks like a good response, where is the xo design and component values?

                          I could totally work on the woofer before adding the tweeter, not sure my ears are really a good reference tool tho. after i build this i may invest in a small mic to do some rudimentary testing.

                          If i did an angled baffle would it angle both the tweeter and the woofer or just the woofer? Should the tweeter be aimed straight at the listening position?

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                          • Originally posted by adam215 View Post

                            this looks like a good response, where is the xo design and component values?

                            I could totally work on the woofer before adding the tweeter, not sure my ears are really a good reference tool tho. after i build this i may invest in a small mic to do some rudimentary testing.

                            If i did an angled baffle would it angle both the tweeter and the woofer or just the woofer? Should the tweeter be aimed straight at the listening position?
                            If you slope the baffle slightly, both woofer, and tweeter are sloped. This tends to slightly roll off the top end a little, but some want a little less there anyway. Sloping will also bring the tweeter acoustic center closer to the woofer acoustic center, which is a good thing, but might change the x-over slightly. Sometimes fewer parts will be needed, but not always. My sloped speaker is 1" for every 7" of height.. That would more or less align the woofer and tweeter if the driver centers are 7" apart. I probably would not slope any more than that, if any.

                            If you get measurement gear, you should be able to correct any sim errors. There may be someone within a short drive that can measure for you.

                            I can post the x-over parts. I was waiting for others to post their sims first. Maybe no one is planning to. For the sims to be most accurate, you should decide on baffle dimensions, and round-overs. We can sim for a slope easily, so you can compare potential x-overs with or without a slope. For the RS28a, I'd probably not slope thee baffle.
                            All x-overs have compromises. The RS28 can cross much lower than in my sim, and possibly with fewer parts. I tried to fix some of the irregularities by using a 4th order filter. Probably overkill. We can look at different sims after the baffle size is settled. I would suggest something like 9 x 14, and about 10" deep. (Ballpark)
                            Last edited by rpb; 08-11-2019, 08:59 PM.

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                            • Originally posted by rpb View Post

                              If you slope the baffle slightly, both woofer, and tweeter are sloped. This tends to slightly roll off the top end a little, but some want a little less there anyway. Sloping will also bring the tweeter acoustic center closer to the woofer acoustic center, which is a good thing, but might change the x-over slightly. Sometimes fewer parts will be needed, but not always. My sloped speaker is 1" for every 7" of height.. That would more or less align the woofer and tweeter if the driver centers are 7" apart. I probably would not slope any more than that, if any.

                              If you get measurement gear, you should be able to correct any sim errors. There may be someone within a short drive that can measure for you.

                              I can post the x-over parts. I was waiting for others to post their sims first. Maybe no one is planning to. For the sims to be most accurate, you should decide on baffle dimensions, and round-overs. We can sim for a slope easily, so you can compare potential x-overs with or without a slope. For the RS28a, I'd probably not slope thee baffle.
                              All x-overs have compromises. The RS28 can cross much lower than in my sim, and possibly with fewer parts. I tried to fix some of the irregularities by using a 4th order filter. Probably overkill. We can look at different sims after the baffle size is settled. I would suggest something like 9 x 14, and about 10" deep. (Ballpark)
                              Click image for larger version

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ID:	1419178 So not like this... thought this looked kinda cool

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                              • I can do any kind of roundover oe chamfer. could even do facets if they could work

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