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  • Geoff Millar
    replied
    Originally posted by hangtentex View Post

    About the baffle. The original is 13 x 8, but it was set back in hex about 2 inches, with 2 other cut outs in front of it. There is no way to put it all the way on the outside, but I can get it right against the outside opening. Outside opening is 13 x 5. I can make the new baffle the same 13 x 5. Is this a good idea? It just seems bad to me to have so much wood in front of the drivers. Trying to get some new pictures of the baffle area, if that will help.
    Thanks - so if this mean that your baffle will 13" x 5", that will rather limit your woofer and driver choice, size-wise.

    Geoff

    Leave a comment:


  • rpb
    replied
    Originally posted by Chris Roemer View Post
    (from the aforementioned thread)


    Chris Roemer
    replied

    01-22-2009, 01:29 AM
    Re: Xover design for DC200-8/DC28F-8
    Originally posted by dubeiram View Post
    Perhaps this is in the forum already and missed it thru my search... but does anybody have a xover design for the Dayton classic 8 inch woofer(DC200-8) and the DC28F-8 1 1/8 tweeter or the ND28F-6 neo tweeter... Also I see Dayton does not provide .frd or .zma for these speakers... does anyone have this info??

    Thanks guys

    Bud



    Here's mine. Put these in a 1.7 cf box, tuned to 30 Hz or a little lower using a 3"d REAR port. Length of 9" should be close.

    2nd order HP w/L-pad, positive polarity:
    5.6uF series cap, 0.50mH #20 shunt coil, SR = 4.7 ohms, PR = 7.5 ohms

    1st order LP w/Zobel:
    0.50mH #18 series coil, Zobel with 4 ohms and 47uF.


    The -070 silk dome WILL give the tweeter freqs. better dispersion so that they'll be more audible "up" where people's ears will be (instead of "beaming" 14 inches across the floor, which is what a small full-ranger will do). For an 8" woofer, the port you listed isn't large enough to reduce chuffing. I'd use a 3" (but a 2-1/2" will be OK if the end is generously flaired).

    Just for the sake of argument, the full ranger I suggested is comparable to the -070 tweeter at 15 degrees off axis, and doesn't t have a 5dB dip at 9k like the -070. That should easily be sufficient for anyone sitting 8' from the speakers.
    In addition, the grill cloth may reduce the highs on the top end as well. The filter I posted rolled off the highs, but it would be easy to get them back by changing one x-over part. (see picture)
    In this sim, the response is at 35 degrees vertical. (The top end would roll off some. This sim doesn't show driver roll-off, so I estimated it, and drew it in.) Since the x-over point is low, the mid-range hardly changes at all, and is still very smooth.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	endtable off axis.jpg
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    Leave a comment:


  • Chris Roemer
    replied
    (from the aforementioned thread)


    Chris Roemer
    replied

    01-22-2009, 01:29 AM
    Re: Xover design for DC200-8/DC28F-8
    Originally posted by dubeiram View Post
    Perhaps this is in the forum already and missed it thru my search... but does anybody have a xover design for the Dayton classic 8 inch woofer(DC200-8) and the DC28F-8 1 1/8 tweeter or the ND28F-6 neo tweeter... Also I see Dayton does not provide .frd or .zma for these speakers... does anyone have this info??

    Thanks guys

    Bud



    Here's mine. Put these in a 1.7 cf box, tuned to 30 Hz or a little lower using a 3"d REAR port. Length of 9" should be close.

    2nd order HP w/L-pad, positive polarity:
    5.6uF series cap, 0.50mH #20 shunt coil, SR = 4.7 ohms, PR = 7.5 ohms

    1st order LP w/Zobel:
    0.50mH #18 series coil, Zobel with 4 ohms and 47uF.


    The -070 silk dome WILL give the tweeter freqs. better dispersion so that they'll be more audible "up" where people's ears will be (instead of "beaming" 14 inches across the floor, which is what a small full-ranger will do). For an 8" woofer, the port you listed isn't large enough to reduce chuffing. I'd use a 3" (but a 2-1/2" will be OK if the end is generously flaired).


    Leave a comment:


  • hangtentex
    replied
    Originally posted by rpb View Post
    I didn't account for baffle dimensions, but this looks promising with 7 x-over parts.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	endtable.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	588.6 KB
ID:	1419107
    Honestly, I am humbled by all the help. Thank you so much for the interest, and all the thought put into this. But, this is way over my head. Is there a speakers for dummies version?

    Leave a comment:


  • hangtentex
    replied
    Originally posted by Geoff Millar View Post

    What are the dimensions of the outside panels of the hexagon, please - it looks like the 'baffle' might be 13" high, but not sure about the width. You could then compare the dimensions with a design such as Chris Roemer posted above.

    NB Chris really knows his stuff and has helped many, many PETT members including me with their projects.

    It looks like an interesting and unusual project, good luck!

    Geoff.
    About the baffle. The original is 13 x 8, but it was set back in hex about 2 inches, with 2 other cut outs in front of it. There is no way to put it all the way on the outside, but I can get it right against the outside opening. Outside opening is 13 x 5. I can make the new baffle the same 13 x 5. Is this a good idea? It just seems bad to me to have so much wood in front of the drivers. Trying to get some new pictures of the baffle area, if that will help.

    Leave a comment:


  • Geoff Millar
    replied
    Originally posted by rpb View Post

    I might do a separate thread with baffle sizes, etc. I would just need to run the frds through response modeler, which I've only done twice, so, details, details.

    There's no resistors. Third order on woofer. (5mH or so would be most expensive part.) Third order high-pass with a .1mH to tame the top end.
    Thanks rpb

    Knowing 20% of not much about speaker and cabinet design, I really have no idea what effect the hexagonal cabinet will have on the design of the crossover or the sound of the speakers.

    Am still not sure of the baffle width (i.e. width of the outside panel of the hexagon), which also might affect driver layout and crossover design: hangtentex, do you have that measurement, please?


    Geoff
    Last edited by Geoff Millar; 08-11-2019, 05:04 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • rpb
    replied
    Originally posted by Geoff Millar View Post

    Hi rpb,

    That sim looks rather promising: how do you find the parts values from that table, please?

    The PC83 looks like a very smooth driver with a few more dB than the VIFA TC9, which seems to be a popular driver for 8" two ways, and could work for those cabinets.

    Thanks

    Geoff
    I might do a separate thread with baffle sizes, etc. I would just need to run the frds through response modeler, which I've only done twice, so, details, details.

    There's no resistors. Third order on woofer. (5mH or so would be most expensive part.) Third order high-pass with a .1mH to tame the top end.

    Leave a comment:


  • Geoff Millar
    replied
    Originally posted by rpb View Post
    I didn't account for baffle dimensions, but this looks promising with 7 x-over parts.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	endtable.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	588.6 KB
ID:	1419107
    Hi rpb,

    That sim looks rather promising: how do you find the parts values from that table, please?

    The PC83 looks like a very smooth driver with a few more dB than the VIFA TC9, which seems to be a popular driver for 8" two ways, and could work for those cabinets.

    Thanks

    Geoff

    Leave a comment:


  • rpb
    replied
    I didn't account for baffle dimensions, but this looks promising with 7 x-over parts.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	endtable.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	588.6 KB
ID:	1419107

    Leave a comment:


  • rpb
    replied
    Originally posted by hangtentex View Post

    Yes, but then I would not get to buy drivers, and get practice building cool stuff. Which, was kind of the point of buying them in the first place!
    Ok, so how about this;

    1 - Dayton Audio DC200-8 8" Classic Woofer
    1 - Dayton Audio DC28F-8 1-1/8" Silk Dome Tweeter
    1 - Dayton Audio XO2W-2.5K 2-Way Speaker Crossover 2,500 Hz
    1 - Parts Express Speaker Cabinet Port Tube 1-3/8" ID Adjustable

    Cabinet is right at 2 cuft. I am going to remove the speaker mount and mount on a baffle just inside the front panel. And, of course, enclose the bottom.
    Comments?
    How about a Dayton DA215-8 paired with a Dayton PC83-8 crossed at 400hz? Looks cheap, and the x-over shouldn't be too hard.

    Leave a comment:


  • Geoff Millar
    replied
    Originally posted by hangtentex View Post
    Ok, so how about this;

    1 - Dayton Audio DC200-8 8" Classic Woofer
    1 - Dayton Audio DC28F-8 1-1/8" Silk Dome Tweeter
    1 - Dayton Audio XO2W-2.5K 2-Way Speaker Crossover 2,500 Hz
    1 - Parts Express Speaker Cabinet Port Tube 1-3/8" ID Adjustable

    Cabinet is right at 2 cuft. I am going to remove the speaker mount and mount on a baffle just inside the front panel. And, of course, enclose the bottom.
    Comments?
    Others who know much more than I will be quick to advise you that pre-made crossovers can't work properly and will make your speaker sound below par. A custom-designed crossover will be essential, and there are several available for this driver combination, Chris Roemer's being one of them.

    Edit: here's the thread:

    http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...28f-8?t=209087

    I used Xsim to model the effect of that pre-made crossover on these drivers and the result is not good.

    Other PETT members will be able to suggest possible builds for that enclosure, but I haven't built anything with 8" woofers.

    Geoff
    Last edited by Geoff Millar; 08-10-2019, 10:03 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • hangtentex
    replied
    Ok, so how about this;

    1 - Dayton Audio DC200-8 8" Classic Woofer
    1 - Dayton Audio DC28F-8 1-1/8" Silk Dome Tweeter
    1 - Dayton Audio XO2W-2.5K 2-Way Speaker Crossover 2,500 Hz
    1 - Parts Express Speaker Cabinet Port Tube 1-3/8" ID Adjustable

    Cabinet is right at 2 cuft. I am going to remove the speaker mount and mount on a baffle just inside the front panel. And, of course, enclose the bottom.
    Comments?

    Leave a comment:


  • hangtentex
    replied
    Originally posted by rpb View Post

    I would be worried about liability if someone puts 200w to them, and burns down their house. My sister says I worry too much.
    My advice is to sell them as is for a smaller profit.
    Yes, but then I would not get to buy drivers, and get practice building cool stuff. Which, was kind of the point of buying them in the first place!
    Ok, so how about this;

    1 - Dayton Audio DC200-8 8" Classic Woofer
    1 - Dayton Audio DC28F-8 1-1/8" Silk Dome Tweeter
    1 - Dayton Audio XO2W-2.5K 2-Way Speaker Crossover 2,500 Hz
    1 - Parts Express Speaker Cabinet Port Tube 1-3/8" ID Adjustable

    Cabinet is right at 2 cuft. I am going to remove the speaker mount and mount on a baffle just inside the front panel. And, of course, enclose the bottom.
    Comments?

    Leave a comment:


  • djg
    replied
    Inline AGC Fuse Holder

    Leave a comment:


  • Wolf
    replied
    Put a 1A slow blow on them.
    Wolf

    Leave a comment:

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