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Can I use a Neutrik / Speakon connector for a subwoofer

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  • Can I use a Neutrik / Speakon connector for a subwoofer

    I recently purchased a Neutrik NL4MP-UC and Neutrik NL4FX to hook up my new subwoofer in my Jeep so that I could disconnect it easily should I want to remove the box and use my cargo space. My subwoofer is going to be powered by a Soundqubed Q1-2200.2 which is pushing up to 2200 watts across this connection. From my reading I'll need 8 gauge wire to connect the amp to the sub, from what I've read about these connectors they will only accept up to 10 gauge wire if I remove the screw connector and solder the wire. Now since I only need 2 poles of the 4 pole connector, I could just double the connections by using 2 10 gauge wires for each of the positive and negative connections therefor giving the 2 x 10 gauge connections enough throughput for the 2200 watts to travel across both connections. Can someone with more electrical knowledge please let me know if this is a legit assumption that will actually work or just plain crazy. I was thinking if this won't work I could fall back to using a less elegant solution such as a heavy duty Anderson connector.

  • #2
    Yes, you can parallel runs in this way. However, I think 10 AWG should be fine.
    Wolf
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    • #3
      Thanks for the reply, just to be clear though as I don't want to burn up the connector and want to check the math with you.

      The amp I'm using is going to be pushing up to 2200 watts rms when turned up but we know it won't do that continuously. Lets just guestimate overall it's pushing 1500 watts power on average while listening to music at a volume thats turned up but not ear bleeding.

      1500 watts / 14 volts = 107 amps. 10 gauge wire is only rated up to around 85 amps and the speakon connector itself is only rated for 40 amps presumably through each of the poles on the connection.

      So my thought was to use all 4 poles to get more throughput for my 2 connections, 2 for negative connection and 2 for positive. By my math, it would be running just over 50 amps per pole on each of the connections. Is it safe to assume that there is a tolerance built in where it can handle that or should I not temp melting the connector if running it too loud for too long and look for a different solution?

      Even if the connector did not get hot enough to melt, could the contacts on the connector restrict the power to the sub if they are too small and not enough power is getting to the sub?

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      • #4
        Your math is for the battery to amp connection, and that would require an Anderson connector.

        A speakon for amp to driver should be just fine. I’m betting the voltage rails in the amp are no less than 50v (probably more especially if class d), reducing the current necessary through the speakon.

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        • #5
          E=IR W=EI so W=I2R so the sqrt of 2200 is about 46 amps if driving a 1 ohm load

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          • #6
            Yes, as dynamo and wolf have said, you will be fine using a 4-pole speak-on and paralleling the pins. Even if you're running a continuous 2200 watts of output into a 1-ohm load, you're looking at ~47 Amps (P=I^2*R, so I = sqrt(2200/1). As you said, each pole is rated for 40 Amps, so you'd now be splitting the 47 amps between them and should be WELL under their rating. I have personally soldered 10 gauge wire into speak-on connectors before and using 4 wires will be more than enough. As dynamo said, the INPUT current will be ridiculously high and needs to have very large gauge wire (>150 amps for 2200 watts).

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            • #7
              If you are continuously pushing 1500 watts into the speaker you may go deaf or get shot by other motorists way before your wire or connection burned out.

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              • #8
                Thank you guys for the confirmations. I have 1/0 gauge OFC cable to power the amp as recommended however it was a bit harder to come by the specs for the actual amp to sub wire but through those calculations I found some guidance online. I appreciate your confirmations that although my math was quite a bit off, I was at least erroring in direction of the safe side and I will follow your guidance. As assumed above, yes I will be driving a 1ohm load to the sub. I'm just finishing up my build of the 15" cabinet kit I bought from PE for my new 15" FI Q sub, can't wait to hear this thing when it's finished. Thank all for your help.
                Last edited by paulieb81; 08-15-2019, 09:57 PM.

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                • #9
                  You will be rocking with that one! Have fun building and learning!

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                  • #10
                    I actually went and looked up that amp, typically a "2200" watt amp is lucky to actually get 1/4 that in real RMS power so I always look at the incoming fuse rating. That one seems legit, I wouldn't want to run that 1/0 cable to get 200 amps back there. Good luck!

                    Also... The Neutrik will be fine
                    Electronics engineer, woofer enthusiast, and musician.
                    Wogg Music
                    Published projects: PPA100 Bass Guitar Amp, ISO El-Cheapo Sub, Indy 8 2.1 powered sub, MicroSat, SuperNova Minimus

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                    • #11
                      1/0 cable... 200A... That poor alternator in your Jeep. Might think of upgrading it if you haven't already.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by GTPlus View Post
                        1/0 cable... 200A... That poor alternator in your Jeep. Might think of upgrading it if you haven't already.
                        +1. And the amp is class AB soe expect a lot of heat from it when pushing it. I would have recommended a class D mono-block, way more efficient.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Millstonemike View Post

                          +1. And the amp is class AB soe expect a lot of heat from it when pushing it. I would have recommended a class D mono-block, way more efficient.
                          Just to make sure we're talking about the same amp here: https://soundqubed.com/product/q1-2200-2-amplifier/ https://www.amazon.com/SoundQubed-22.../dp/B00WILT5MI

                          Thats a mono block class D amp, is it not? It's still boxed up so if it is not then it can go right back.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by GTPlus View Post
                            1/0 cable... 200A... That poor alternator in your Jeep. Might think of upgrading it if you haven't already.
                            Thank you for the heads up but yes, I have a Singer 320 amp alternator already on order, should be shipping to me soon. In the mean time I'm building the box and ran the 1/0 wires today from the stock alternator. I do have a stock 180 amp alternator though since I've got the 5.7L Hemi in my Grand Cherokee so even if I powered the amp up next week, it should be ok so long as I didn't turn it up and left the volume at normal average listening levels, right?

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                            • #15
                              I wanted to follow up with the progress and show you guys how it all turned out. I just finished building the box last night. I used a 15" kit from Parts Express glued together with Titebond 3 glue and ordered the vinyl from here as well. It was my first build and although had a few blemishes i'm totally happy with how it turned out. I also used the hurricane nuts sold here along with the black hex bolts to bolt into them to hold the sub down.

                              I used the connector mentioned above and what I ended up doing was using the 4 pole connector and using 10 AWG wire and basically split the load across 2 poles on the connector and wired the 2ohm DVC sub down into 1ohm by wiring it in parallel. I didn't use the typical method to jump one set of posts to another, instead due to the connector I had having 4 poles, I just wired them direct and then on the male side of the plug on the outside of the box I combined the connections there and used 8 AWG OFC wire to run back to the amp. To secure the connector to the box, I was very careful when I drilled the hole and made it just large enough to very snugly fit in, I then glued the connector in with Locktite brand super glue that said it works with wood and plastic as well as used two #4 wood screws on the two predrilled holes. It appears to be holding very well but time will tell.

                              Attached are a few pics of the inside of the box and one of the box finished and just temp placed inside my jeep for first turn up test to ensure everything functioned as this is all brand new equipment and wanted to ensure it all worked before sealing everything up inside my jeep.

                              Any thoughts or constructive criticisms are welcome, I am here to learn like everyone else. Thank you all to those who posted on my thread and contribute to the community on other threads as I read plenty before beginning.

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