Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Can I use a Neutrik / Speakon connector for a subwoofer

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    Looks really nice!

    Comment


    • #17
      Thanks, I had to take my router and enlarge the circle that was already cut for the kit. My sub was about 1/4" larger all the way around. I used the router free hand so I think I did an ok job but it wasn't a completely perfect circle. All in all, it came out good enough for me.

      Comment


      • #18
        Originally posted by paulieb81 View Post

        Just to make sure we're talking about the same amp here: https://soundqubed.com/product/q1-2200-2-amplifier/ https://www.amazon.com/SoundQubed-22.../dp/B00WILT5MI

        Thats a mono block class D amp, is it not? It's still boxed up so if it is not then it can go right back.
        Well the S1-2200-2 descripton clearly says class D. The Q1 description doesn't specify the amp class. I saw "DC offset speaker protection" so I assumed it's class A-B where DC offset can be an issue (maybe advanced, high-power class D designs have DC offset circuitry, not sure). If also says MOSFET switching devices (switching implies Class D). But that's all marketing data, not to be trusted to discern detailed specifications.

        I'd email the mfg. Easy to do and you may get a reliable answer. If it is class A-B, you'll have a heater running in the Jeep all the time ...

        Comment


        • #19
          Another follow up:

          So I've had the box installed for about two weeks now and the Neutrik connector is holding up great, no problems at all.

          I do notice the vinyl on the bottom of the box does not like my rubber mat in the back of my Jeep and is getting a little messed up. I think I'm going to order some carpet and place that only on the bottom side where no one is going to see anyway. I'll keep the other sides vinyl as it looks pretty decent. Anyone have any other suggestions besides the carpet on the bottom for durability?

          Comment


          • #20
            FWIW, this is the "correct" terminal to use for your build - https://www.parts-express.com/neutri...mount--092-054

            It can be fastened with four screws (instead of two), and there's a larger gap between the screws and the hole that has to be cut for the terminal, both of which result in a stronger, more secure connection. The terminal you used is more for panel mounting (e.g. if you used a blank metal terminal cup with cutouts for screwing in the terminals)
            Brian Steele
            www.diysubwoofers.org

            Comment


            • #21
              Originally posted by Brian Steele View Post
              FWIW, this is the "correct" terminal to use for your build - https://www.parts-express.com/neutri...mount--092-054

              It can be fastened with four screws (instead of two), and there's a larger gap between the screws and the hole that has to be cut for the terminal, both of which result in a stronger, more secure connection. The terminal you used is more for panel mounting (e.g. if you used a blank metal terminal cup with cutouts for screwing in the terminals)
              I appreciate the suggestion and I looked at that one however it was not rated for as high current and when I placed the order was not sure how much current would be flowing through it. So far the connector I used is working but if I have any issues with it coming loose, I will order this one as a replacement. So far it's holding great but after time we'll see, glad to know I already have a backup idea, and for $3, I'm thinking of just ordering one to have on hand just in case.

              Comment


              • #22
                Originally posted by paulieb81 View Post
                Thanks, I had to take my router and enlarge the circle that was already cut for the kit. My sub was about 1/4" larger all the way around. I used the router free hand so I think I did an ok job but it wasn't a completely perfect circle. All in all, it came out good enough for me.
                First off, nice looking build! I bet it's loud! I found a good way to enlarge a subwoofer cutout that's nice and clean. First use a rabbiting bit to increase the hole to the size you want, the bit looks like this Click image for larger version

Name:	rabbtbit.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	24.6 KB
ID:	1421080 then use a flush trim pattern bit to finish the job, that bit looks like this one here
                Click image for larger version

Name:	pattern66_2.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	14.6 KB
ID:	1421081 ​​​​​
                you can find these bits here https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/

                Comment


                • #23
                  Originally posted by Jeff F. View Post

                  First off, nice looking build! I bet it's loud! I found a good way to enlarge a subwoofer cutout that's nice and clean. First use a rabbiting bit to increase the hole to the size you want, the bit looks like this Click image for larger version

Name:	rabbtbit.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	24.6 KB
ID:	1421080 then use a flush trim pattern bit to finish the job, that bit looks like this one here
                  Click image for larger version

Name:	pattern66_2.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	14.6 KB
ID:	1421081 ​​​​​
                  you can find these bits here https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/
                  Nice suggestion, I should have googled it. I had the second bit and I just used that not thinking about it. I have a router but honestly not that skilled or experienced with it, I only used it for a couple things so I knew the basics and should have thought there was a proper bit for what I needed to do.

                  Comment

                  Working...
                  X