Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Can I use a Neutrik / Speakon connector for a subwoofer

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Can I use a Neutrik / Speakon connector for a subwoofer

    I recently purchased a Neutrik NL4MP-UC and Neutrik NL4FX to hook up my new subwoofer in my Jeep so that I could disconnect it easily should I want to remove the box and use my cargo space. My subwoofer is going to be powered by a Soundqubed Q1-2200.2 which is pushing up to 2200 watts across this connection. From my reading I'll need 8 gauge wire to connect the amp to the sub, from what I've read about these connectors they will only accept up to 10 gauge wire if I remove the screw connector and solder the wire. Now since I only need 2 poles of the 4 pole connector, I could just double the connections by using 2 10 gauge wires for each of the positive and negative connections therefor giving the 2 x 10 gauge connections enough throughput for the 2200 watts to travel across both connections. Can someone with more electrical knowledge please let me know if this is a legit assumption that will actually work or just plain crazy. I was thinking if this won't work I could fall back to using a less elegant solution such as a heavy duty Anderson connector.

  • paulieb81
    replied
    Originally posted by Jeff F. View Post

    First off, nice looking build! I bet it's loud! I found a good way to enlarge a subwoofer cutout that's nice and clean. First use a rabbiting bit to increase the hole to the size you want, the bit looks like this Click image for larger version

Name:	rabbtbit.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	24.6 KB
ID:	1421080 then use a flush trim pattern bit to finish the job, that bit looks like this one here
    Click image for larger version

Name:	pattern66_2.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	14.6 KB
ID:	1421081 ​​​​​
    you can find these bits here https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/
    Nice suggestion, I should have googled it. I had the second bit and I just used that not thinking about it. I have a router but honestly not that skilled or experienced with it, I only used it for a couple things so I knew the basics and should have thought there was a proper bit for what I needed to do.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jeff F.
    replied
    Originally posted by paulieb81 View Post
    Thanks, I had to take my router and enlarge the circle that was already cut for the kit. My sub was about 1/4" larger all the way around. I used the router free hand so I think I did an ok job but it wasn't a completely perfect circle. All in all, it came out good enough for me.
    First off, nice looking build! I bet it's loud! I found a good way to enlarge a subwoofer cutout that's nice and clean. First use a rabbiting bit to increase the hole to the size you want, the bit looks like this Click image for larger version

Name:	rabbtbit.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	24.6 KB
ID:	1421080 then use a flush trim pattern bit to finish the job, that bit looks like this one here
    Click image for larger version

Name:	pattern66_2.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	14.6 KB
ID:	1421081 ​​​​​
    you can find these bits here https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/

    Leave a comment:


  • paulieb81
    replied
    Originally posted by Brian Steele View Post
    FWIW, this is the "correct" terminal to use for your build - https://www.parts-express.com/neutri...mount--092-054

    It can be fastened with four screws (instead of two), and there's a larger gap between the screws and the hole that has to be cut for the terminal, both of which result in a stronger, more secure connection. The terminal you used is more for panel mounting (e.g. if you used a blank metal terminal cup with cutouts for screwing in the terminals)
    I appreciate the suggestion and I looked at that one however it was not rated for as high current and when I placed the order was not sure how much current would be flowing through it. So far the connector I used is working but if I have any issues with it coming loose, I will order this one as a replacement. So far it's holding great but after time we'll see, glad to know I already have a backup idea, and for $3, I'm thinking of just ordering one to have on hand just in case.

    Leave a comment:


  • Brian Steele
    replied
    FWIW, this is the "correct" terminal to use for your build - https://www.parts-express.com/neutri...mount--092-054

    It can be fastened with four screws (instead of two), and there's a larger gap between the screws and the hole that has to be cut for the terminal, both of which result in a stronger, more secure connection. The terminal you used is more for panel mounting (e.g. if you used a blank metal terminal cup with cutouts for screwing in the terminals)

    Leave a comment:


  • paulieb81
    replied
    Another follow up:

    So I've had the box installed for about two weeks now and the Neutrik connector is holding up great, no problems at all.

    I do notice the vinyl on the bottom of the box does not like my rubber mat in the back of my Jeep and is getting a little messed up. I think I'm going to order some carpet and place that only on the bottom side where no one is going to see anyway. I'll keep the other sides vinyl as it looks pretty decent. Anyone have any other suggestions besides the carpet on the bottom for durability?

    Leave a comment:


  • Millstonemike
    replied
    Originally posted by paulieb81 View Post

    Just to make sure we're talking about the same amp here: https://soundqubed.com/product/q1-2200-2-amplifier/ https://www.amazon.com/SoundQubed-22.../dp/B00WILT5MI

    Thats a mono block class D amp, is it not? It's still boxed up so if it is not then it can go right back.
    Well the S1-2200-2 descripton clearly says class D. The Q1 description doesn't specify the amp class. I saw "DC offset speaker protection" so I assumed it's class A-B where DC offset can be an issue (maybe advanced, high-power class D designs have DC offset circuitry, not sure). If also says MOSFET switching devices (switching implies Class D). But that's all marketing data, not to be trusted to discern detailed specifications.

    I'd email the mfg. Easy to do and you may get a reliable answer. If it is class A-B, you'll have a heater running in the Jeep all the time ...

    Leave a comment:


  • paulieb81
    replied
    Thanks, I had to take my router and enlarge the circle that was already cut for the kit. My sub was about 1/4" larger all the way around. I used the router free hand so I think I did an ok job but it wasn't a completely perfect circle. All in all, it came out good enough for me.

    Leave a comment:


  • dynamo
    replied
    Looks really nice!

    Leave a comment:


  • paulieb81
    replied
    I wanted to follow up with the progress and show you guys how it all turned out. I just finished building the box last night. I used a 15" kit from Parts Express glued together with Titebond 3 glue and ordered the vinyl from here as well. It was my first build and although had a few blemishes i'm totally happy with how it turned out. I also used the hurricane nuts sold here along with the black hex bolts to bolt into them to hold the sub down.

    I used the connector mentioned above and what I ended up doing was using the 4 pole connector and using 10 AWG wire and basically split the load across 2 poles on the connector and wired the 2ohm DVC sub down into 1ohm by wiring it in parallel. I didn't use the typical method to jump one set of posts to another, instead due to the connector I had having 4 poles, I just wired them direct and then on the male side of the plug on the outside of the box I combined the connections there and used 8 AWG OFC wire to run back to the amp. To secure the connector to the box, I was very careful when I drilled the hole and made it just large enough to very snugly fit in, I then glued the connector in with Locktite brand super glue that said it works with wood and plastic as well as used two #4 wood screws on the two predrilled holes. It appears to be holding very well but time will tell.

    Attached are a few pics of the inside of the box and one of the box finished and just temp placed inside my jeep for first turn up test to ensure everything functioned as this is all brand new equipment and wanted to ensure it all worked before sealing everything up inside my jeep.

    Any thoughts or constructive criticisms are welcome, I am here to learn like everyone else. Thank you all to those who posted on my thread and contribute to the community on other threads as I read plenty before beginning.

    Leave a comment:


  • paulieb81
    replied
    Originally posted by GTPlus View Post
    1/0 cable... 200A... That poor alternator in your Jeep. Might think of upgrading it if you haven't already.
    Thank you for the heads up but yes, I have a Singer 320 amp alternator already on order, should be shipping to me soon. In the mean time I'm building the box and ran the 1/0 wires today from the stock alternator. I do have a stock 180 amp alternator though since I've got the 5.7L Hemi in my Grand Cherokee so even if I powered the amp up next week, it should be ok so long as I didn't turn it up and left the volume at normal average listening levels, right?

    Leave a comment:


  • paulieb81
    replied
    Originally posted by Millstonemike View Post

    +1. And the amp is class AB soe expect a lot of heat from it when pushing it. I would have recommended a class D mono-block, way more efficient.
    Just to make sure we're talking about the same amp here: https://soundqubed.com/product/q1-2200-2-amplifier/ https://www.amazon.com/SoundQubed-22.../dp/B00WILT5MI

    Thats a mono block class D amp, is it not? It's still boxed up so if it is not then it can go right back.

    Leave a comment:


  • Millstonemike
    replied
    Originally posted by GTPlus View Post
    1/0 cable... 200A... That poor alternator in your Jeep. Might think of upgrading it if you haven't already.
    +1. And the amp is class AB soe expect a lot of heat from it when pushing it. I would have recommended a class D mono-block, way more efficient.

    Leave a comment:


  • GTPlus
    replied
    1/0 cable... 200A... That poor alternator in your Jeep. Might think of upgrading it if you haven't already.

    Leave a comment:


  • wogg
    replied
    I actually went and looked up that amp, typically a "2200" watt amp is lucky to actually get 1/4 that in real RMS power so I always look at the incoming fuse rating. That one seems legit, I wouldn't want to run that 1/0 cable to get 200 amps back there. Good luck!

    Also... The Neutrik will be fine

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X