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Two way using TB 1720 and Seas 22TAF/G, but bigger than Rory's Neutreno

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  • Two way using TB 1720 and Seas 22TAF/G, but bigger than Rory's Neutreno

    Hi Gang,

    I couldn't resist the sale price on a pair TB1720 drivers and have the Seas 22TAF/G on hand already. I know that Rory's Neutreno design is a very highly regarded one for this driver pairing, but I do not need the super compact cabinet and am hoping for a simpler crossover. So, is anyone aware of a proven design other than the Neutrinos for these drivers? I am sure a lot of the magic of the Neutrinos is a result of the crossovers and the other extraordinarily well thought out design features, but I'm hoping that I can come up with an excellent, if not outstanding, sounding speaker that is not as challenging to construct. Thoughts, suggestions?

    Best,
    Jay

  • #2
    Not to my knowledge....
    Wolf
    "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
    "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
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    • #3
      sent pm

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      • #4
        That's a pretty simple Xover. What issue do you have with it?

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        • #5
          I'd recommend keeping the crossover as that's the heart and soul of the speaker. I did find a couple other designs using the Seas 22TAF/G (with different woofers), but they used more tweeter parts than the Neutrino. One option for a larger and simpler cabinet is to add 6" to the bottom, use a single 2" port instead of the two 1" ports and use b*tt joints instead of the rabbeted joints. You can model all these changes in WinISD.
          "Everything is nothing without a high sound quality." (Sure Electronics)

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          • #6
            Here is the quote from Rory that has me intimidated:

            "the crossover is a difficult part of the build. For my pair, I did something that I had seen done in some commercial speakers: I purchased some small-diameter machine screws that were a few inches long, and then I drilled the terminal cup (I used the biamp terminal cup) and I mounted the crossover board physically to the inside of the terminal cup using the screws as threaded rods to stand off the board from the back wall of the cabinet just enough. I had to file away the MDF around the top edges of the terminal cup opening to get the crossover and mounting solution to fit through the hole, but it eventually did, and there was enough material left that the gasket was wide enough to seal the cabinet. If you can't do this, then I recommend making the bottom or back panel removable so you can install the crossover on the back wall."

            I'm an electronically challenged beginner so that is why I posted, but I'm pretty sure I should go with the original x-over design. I may wait until I've built a few more crossovers though...

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            • #7
              Drjay - I have the woofers and intend to build the Neutrinos. I believe the "difficult" thing about the crossovers was fitting them in the quite small cabinet (that also happens to have two ports getting in the way also). Rory attached it to the terminal cup and still had to manually file some edges to get it in the small cabinet.

              I think the actual crossover parts, soldering it etc. are no more difficult than other speakers other than you are probably constrained to get them closer together than you normally would.

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              • #8
                Don't make any changes to the parts or connection of the parts. As far as mounting the board for the Xover just cut it less than the width of the woofer cutout so that should not be an issue.

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