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Problem with Bash 300 Plate Amp

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  • Problem with Bash 300 Plate Amp

    I have been using a Bash 300 to power a 10" Dayton Titanic for about 7 years now. It has started to drop the input signal often even in "On" mode. The led is lit green, but no bass unless I unplug and reconnect input cable to LFE or line level inputs. It will then start firing again for a random amount of time before quiting again. I have swapped around sub pre outs on AVR with second sub, and process of elimination tells me that it's not the AVR. I pulled out the amp to inspect, and all looks fine. Nothing burned or melted. Maybe someone has an idea. I would like to keep this thing going if possible. Thanks in advance for any input.

  • #2
    May not be the signal side of the amp. May be the power out side. Post a high res pic of the amp board's components. We may be able to spot something ...

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    • #3
      Got an older BASH300 - no problems so far, but subbed just in case!

      I think I hear a difference - wow, it's amazing!" Ethan Winer: audio myths
      "As God is my witness I'll never be without a good pair of speakers!" Scarlett O'Hara

      High value, high quality RS150/TB28-537SH bookshelf - TARGAS NLA!
      SB13/Vifa BC25SC06 MTM DCR Galeons-SB13-MTM
      My Voxel min sub Yet-another-Voxel-build

      Tangband W6-sub

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      • #4
        I've never had any luck with BASH plate amps. I won't knowingly buy that brand anymore.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by halo71 View Post
          I've never had any luck with BASH plate amps. I won't knowingly buy that brand anymore.
          I can't decide if it's ironic or appropriate to be bashing a BASH amp
          Francis

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          • #6
            Millstonemike is on the right path, methinks. I had a Bash300 go bad on me once - same issue you describe. The light would turn green but there would be intermittent output until it simply didn't do anything (but the green light still switched on and off as it should). I can't remember if it was one week before or one week after the 12 month warranty. I was pretty bummed.

            However, I've purchase several since and haven't had any issues. I have decided to remote mount amplifiers whenever possible; my theory is that the vibrations from the subwoofer in close proximity to and mounted to the same structure as the amp causes premature failures. Vibration is also what makes a mobile vehicle environment so punishing to electronics. I have had the same problem with Yung amps, Dayton amps, and off the shelf systems, too. So I can't say it's a Bash problem. But I haven't had a single issue with any of them after removing them from the subwoofer enclosure and remote mounting them. That being said, I have one prototype 8" sub that has the Bash amp fitted to the enclosure. It doesn't get used or abused like my bigger subs since it's tuned to play 20hz rather than 120db, but it has survived the last two years in that box, so I think larger, more power subs contribute to the failures and validate my theory.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Blenton View Post
              Millstonemike is on the right path, methinks. I had a Bash300 go bad on me once - same issue you describe. The light would turn green but there would be intermittent output until it simply didn't do anything (but the green light still switched on and off as it should). I can't remember if it was one week before or one week after the 12 month warranty. I was pretty bummed.

              However, I've purchase several since and haven't had any issues. I have decided to remote mount amplifiers whenever possible; my theory is that the vibrations from the subwoofer in close proximity to and mounted to the same structure as the amp causes premature failures. Vibration is also what makes a mobile vehicle environment so punishing to electronics. I have had the same problem with Yung amps, My KFC Experience Dayton amps, and off the shelf systems, too. So I can't say it's a Bash problem. But I haven't had a single issue with any of them after removing them from the subwoofer enclosure and remote mounting them. That being said, I have one prototype 8" sub that has the Bash amp fitted to the enclosure. It doesn't get used or abused like my bigger subs since it's tuned to play 20hz rather than 120db, but it has survived the last two years in that box, so I think larger, more power subs contribute to the failures and validate my theory.
              Thanks for sharing such an amazing Blog.

              Comment


              • #8
                You might try checking on a more electrical/electronic based forum. Try taking a look at badcaps.net the guys over there are pretty knowledgeable and helpful.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by devnull View Post
                  You might try checking on a more electrical/electronic based forum. Try taking a look at badcaps.net the guys over there are pretty knowledgeable and helpful.
                  Thanks for the link! I've got an old Parts Express SA1000 amp with no output. Can't see any problems.

                  I think I hear a difference - wow, it's amazing!" Ethan Winer: audio myths
                  "As God is my witness I'll never be without a good pair of speakers!" Scarlett O'Hara

                  High value, high quality RS150/TB28-537SH bookshelf - TARGAS NLA!
                  SB13/Vifa BC25SC06 MTM DCR Galeons-SB13-MTM
                  My Voxel min sub Yet-another-Voxel-build

                  Tangband W6-sub

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I would try reflowing all of the solder points as a first step. I have found that in about 50% of electronic failures at my house it is nothing more than a cold joint that took time to oxidize, sometimes years. I'm not saying that this is your amp's problem, but it is a possible fix that costs you nothing to try, except time. I had a pioneer tv that was about ten years old when it developed an intermittent problem and it turned out to be a cold joint on the power supply board. That is just an example of how long it can take a problem to manifest.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Blenton View Post
                      Millstonemike is on the right path, methinks. I had a Bash300 go bad on me once - same issue you describe. The light would turn green but there would be intermittent output until it simply didn't do anything (but the green light still switched on and off as it should). I can't remember if it was one week before or one week after the 12 month warranty. I was pretty bummed.

                      However, I've purchase several since and haven't had any issues. I have decided to remote mount amplifiers whenever possible; my theory is that the vibrations from the subwoofer in close proximity to and mounted to the same structure as the amp causes premature failures. Vibration is also what makes a mobile vehicle environment so punishing to electronics. I have had the same problem with Yung amps, Dayton amps, and off the shelf systems, too. So I can't say it's a Bash problem. But I haven't had a single issue with any of them after removing them from the subwoofer enclosure and remote mounting them. That being said, I have one prototype 8" sub that has the Bash amp fitted to the enclosure. It doesn't get used or abused like my bigger subs since it's tuned to play 20hz rather than 120db, but it has survived the last two years in that box, so I think larger, more power subs contribute to the failures and validate my theory.
                      My theory is, just like the poorly designed DTA-100, excessive heat for a Class D amp results in failure.
                      It can be a big mistake to think that a Class D amp requires no ventilation or fans, but Sure puts fans on many of their amp boards. They should know!
                      For my Bash300, I built a sub-enclosure for it, and drilled 1 inch holes below and above the amp for natural convection cooling.

                      I think I hear a difference - wow, it's amazing!" Ethan Winer: audio myths
                      "As God is my witness I'll never be without a good pair of speakers!" Scarlett O'Hara

                      High value, high quality RS150/TB28-537SH bookshelf - TARGAS NLA!
                      SB13/Vifa BC25SC06 MTM DCR Galeons-SB13-MTM
                      My Voxel min sub Yet-another-Voxel-build

                      Tangband W6-sub

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I believe that Bash amps actually have class AB outputs.

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                        • #13
                          Probably correct, but definitely a SMPS power supply.

                          I think I hear a difference - wow, it's amazing!" Ethan Winer: audio myths
                          "As God is my witness I'll never be without a good pair of speakers!" Scarlett O'Hara

                          High value, high quality RS150/TB28-537SH bookshelf - TARGAS NLA!
                          SB13/Vifa BC25SC06 MTM DCR Galeons-SB13-MTM
                          My Voxel min sub Yet-another-Voxel-build

                          Tangband W6-sub

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Previously I had an amp shutdown on the beach due to heat. Moved it into the shade and it came back.

                            When I built a 2.1 beach boombox using a basic 2.1 TDA3116 amp. I knew it would be run hard near the chip's thermal limits: 25 V -26 V battery, 4 ohm drivers and, you know, it's hot at the beach. So for this design, I point the a woofer port directly at the amp's heat sink. Never had a problem.

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