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  • Peerless 830883 woofer

    I have some boxes I would like to repurpose and I have been looking at some options. I like these drivers but they don’t extend very high and would require a low FS tweeter. Do you guys have suggestions for tweeters that can extend low enough and be a good quality match for these?

  • #2
    Strong looking driver. Mid 40s in 0.65cf. Generous Xmax lets 'em take full power to mid 30s!
    A 3mH series coil and 8uF shunt cap lets them cross to a (nearly any) tweeter @ 2kHz w/full BSC (pretty smooth too).
    You could even take them up to 2.5k if your tweeter's not quite so robust.
    Nice unit.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Chris Roemer View Post
      Strong looking driver. Mid 40s in 0.65cf. Generous Xmax lets 'em take full power to mid 30s!
      A 3mH series coil and 8uF shunt cap lets them cross to a (nearly any) tweeter @ 2kHz w/full BSC (pretty smooth too).
      You could even take them up to 2.5k if your tweeter's not quite so robust.
      Nice unit.
      Ok great Chris. I thought it looked great too. That gives me a lot of freedom to choose a great tweeter! I have considered this for a TMM is I will tinker modeling it.

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      • #4
        Has anyone played with our can compare the HDS 830883 to the Dayton RS180? I am looking at a TMM and I would like a speaker that has a strong midrange but also an extended LF as both of these do. The Dayton looks to be happy in a smaller box than the Peerless.

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        • #5
          You can match it with the Peerless 810921, the drivers are used in the popular HDS455 MTM kits in Oz. The woofer is A$100 and tweeter is A$160, so it's not a cheap exercise.

          Crossover details are n/a as it's a commercial offering, but a firm in Queensland has developed a modified crossover for the MTM which is published. It dates from 2009 so the driver parameters may have changed since then.

          Geoff
          Last edited by Geoff Millar; 12-20-2019, 07:38 PM.

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          • #6
            Peerless 830883 is an excellent driver, I'd take it over RS180 any day. You can use it with any tweeter capable of 2kHz, which leaves you with a lot of options. Scanspeak D2608 (was Peerless 810921 years ago) is a great choice, I'd recommend it. Another option is the old Seas 27TDFC, a handful of choices from SB or Wavecor will do the trick as well, even the Dayton RST28 for an inexpensive option.

            "I just use off the shelf textbook filters designed for a resistor of 8 ohms with
            exactly a Fc 3K for both drivers, anybody can do it." -Xmax

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            • #7
              Originally posted by dcibel View Post
              Peerless 830883 is an excellent driver, I'd take it over RS180 any day. You can use it with any tweeter capable of 2kHz, which leaves you with a lot of options. Scanspeak D2608 (was Peerless 810921 years ago) is a great choice, I'd recommend it. Another option is the old Seas 27TDFC, a handful of choices from SB or Wavecor will do the trick as well, even the Dayton RST28 for an inexpensive option.
              Thank you so much. It is really hard to know without direct experience how drivers sound looking at graphs and specs. So I really appreciate the input. Since I am hoping to end with something that is a step above what I have built I plan on spending more money. This will take me some time as I learn but I am excited do try.

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              • #8
                PETT member Navyguy used the 830883 in "The Standards" two way with the old RS28a, maybe check out that project.

                http://projectgallery.parts-express....the-standards/

                With the RS180 now the same price as the Peerless here, due to the decline of the A$ against the US$, the Peerless is probably better value. A further advantage of the Peerless is that its stated SD is 143sq cm, the RS180 is 124, even though driver frame is the same size; might make a difference to the sound?

                Geoff
                Last edited by Geoff Millar; 12-20-2019, 09:14 PM.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by stephenmarklay View Post
                  Has anyone played with our can compare the HDS 830883 to the Dayton RS180? I am looking at a TMM and I would like a speaker that has a strong midrange but also an extended LF as both of these do. The Dayton looks to be happy in a smaller box than the Peerless.
                  TMM x-overs are difficult! In a TM, I think that driver could cross above 3k. (If you wanted to.)

                  Did you consider any of the other 6.5" HDS drivers? The GFC looks interesting. I'm currently building with the poly cone version. I have some Nomex buyouts on hand as well. I like the HDS drivers I've used.

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                  • stephenmarklay
                    stephenmarklay commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Thank you Rpb. Yeah I figured it would be harder but I am in no hurry, But it looks like the HDS is pretty well behaved so that will be on my side. I think I will pick a tweeter that is also well behaved make my life easier.

                • #10
                  Looking at the 'official' FR graph for this woofer, does this suggest that you wouldn't want to cross this much higher than 2,000 Hz? Or could you cross higher with a steeper filter?



                  Just curious as I'm a beginner at this stuff


                  On the PE product page, the latest reviewer has done a 2.5 way with this woofer. Not sure what tweeter/XO has been used, of course.

                  https://www.parts-express.com/peerle...ofer--264-1094

                  Geoff

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                  • #11
                    Originally posted by Geoff Millar View Post
                    Looking at the 'official' FR graph for this woofer, does this suggest that you wouldn't want to cross this much higher than 2,000 Hz? Or could you cross higher with a steeper filter?



                    Just curious as I'm a beginner at this stuff


                    On the PE product page, the latest reviewer has done a 2.5 way with this woofer. Not sure what tweeter/XO has been used, of course.

                    https://www.parts-express.com/peerle...ofer--264-1094

                    Geoff
                    Things to consider include what the off axis response will look like (with the tweeter) as a complete speaker. If you were to cross this driver at 4k, the off axis near 3k might have a dip. Sometimes it's not so easy to know for sure, and even if it does dip, it might sound really good anyway.

                    The other concern is the peak at 4k. Sometimes that peak can sound bad, even if notched slightly to level it out. Crossing lower deals with the peak with a few less xo parts.

                    A consideration is also what spl you plan to play the speaker. If you want to really crank it loud, a high xo point helps the tweeter survive, and the tweeter will sound cleaner crossed higher. I crossed a 6.5" at 4k, or slightly higher just to see what it would sound like in my room. It had the effect of making the room sound a little deader. (ie, less ambient.) Depending on what you like, that difference may, or may not be ideal for some music, but perfect for other music.

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                    • #12
                      A really pretty good (and fairly current) book on speaker theory/design is "SpeakerBuilding 201", by Ray Alden.
                      It includes more than 10 speaker systems w/crossover designs. It's fun to do all the box modelling and run the XOs through some sims to try to figure out what the designers were thinking. Great reference book as well.

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                      • #13
                        Originally posted by Chris Roemer View Post
                        A really pretty good (and fairly current) book on speaker theory/design is "SpeakerBuilding 201", by Ray Alden.
                        It includes more than 10 speaker systems w/crossover designs. It's fun to do all the box modelling and run the XOs through some sims to try to figure out what the designers were thinking. Great reference book as well.
                        Thanks Chris, I've seen that book and it's well-reviewed, but unfortunately it's n/a in Australia.

                        Copies from PE or other suppliers will cost me A$100, which is just a bit too much. It's now relatively old, so perhaps some of the drivers used in the projects are NLA?

                        Geoff

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                        • #14
                          A really nice match for this woofer would be the 27TBCD/GB-DXT from SEAS. The built in shallow guide will help match the tweeter off-axis response to the woofer off axis response at the crossover point.
                          A 7" woofer really shouldn't be crossed much above 2KHz, especially when you use a small tweeter without a guide. That's not to say it can't be done of course, its just that the polar response is quite a bit short of the ideal.
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                          • #15
                            Originally posted by Pete Schumacher View Post
                            A really nice match for this woofer would be the 27TBCD/GB-DXT from SEAS. The built in shallow guide will help match the tweeter off-axis response to the woofer off axis response at the crossover point.
                            A 7" woofer really shouldn't be crossed much above 2KHz, especially when you use a small tweeter without a guide. That's not to say it can't be done of course, its just that the polar response is quite a bit short of the ideal.
                            Thet looks like a nice tweeter. It seems like the HDS woofer is probably happy being crossed over around 2k as you suggest. This tweeter specs/ graph look like it is probably also happy there.

                            Thank you for your input. I really like this different option. I had a small list I was considering and I will add this one in. I may even post the options I am considering for input.

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