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Box construction with a brad nailer

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  • djg
    replied
    I've done several cabs with PSA veneer over buttjointed particle board and mdf. I took care to ensure the surfaces were all flat. I have not experienced any ghosting of the joints. Just careful sanding with a DA sander.

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  • billfitzmaurice
    replied
    It comes out of been there, done that.

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  • skatz
    replied
    I'll report back after I've used the bits, I just ordered a set yesterday. And it will be warmer weather before I even consider it. But I think it solves several problems. It may cost some time, but so do other procedures and especially mistakes. I'm sure it takes longer than butt joints, but if I don't have to deal with end grain showing or telegraphing through veneer, it may save time there. So we'll see.
    Bill, I think it takes some audacity to tell me how I'm going to behave in the future, since we've never even met!

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  • billfitzmaurice
    replied
    I never worry about veneer causing warp, because my cabs are braced well enough that they can't even vibrate, let alone warp. I can see the warning about warping being useful with furniture, but not speakers.

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  • stephenmarklay
    replied
    Originally posted by billfitzmaurice View Post
    Veneering one side of MDF will have zero effect on stability.
    Thanks Bill. Is that concern something that is a problem on other types of wood but not MDF?

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  • billfitzmaurice
    replied
    Veneering one side of MDF will have zero effect on stability.

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  • stephenmarklay
    replied
    Originally posted by djg View Post
    No. I've done 3 pairs of speakers in the same fake miter joint style.

    Sapele Sopranos - Techtalk Speaker Building, Audio, Video Discussion Forum
    Well they look great! Every time I read up on veneering, it says to do both sides for stability and then I wrinkle my nose and go a different direction… Maybe one day

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  • djg
    replied
    No. I've done 3 pairs of speakers in the same fake miter joint style.

    Sapele Sopranos - Techtalk Speaker Building, Audio, Video Discussion Forum

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  • stephenmarklay
    replied
    Originally posted by djg View Post
    Particle board, buttjoints, biscuits, veneer. Jus' sayin' Click image for larger version

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    Djg, do you veneer both sides of the panels?

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  • KEtheredge87
    replied
    My only issue using brads with MDF joints near the corners is that I am inconsistent with my brad placement. If I end up too close to the edge, it may not shoot out the side, but I have definitely encountered both MDF and plywood bulging out where the brad has displaced wood fibers upon entry. It's subtle most of the time... but highly annoying and not something I want to spend time trying to sand flat again before moving on. You'd HAVE to sand it flat too... I wouldn't want to use a flush trim bit with the wavy surface... that'll just give a wavy edge that STILL needs to be sanded.

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  • djg
    replied
    Particle board, buttjoints, biscuits, veneer. Jus' sayin' Click image for larger version

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  • billfitzmaurice
    replied
    You'll try them, but eventually will realize that it's taking you three times as long to do the job as with simple butt joints. More complicated methods are only called for with furniture that's not braced to the extent that speakers are, which relieves stress on individual joints.

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  • stephenmarklay
    replied
    Originally posted by skatz View Post

    If you are using all 3/4 or 1/2 material there is no need to change heights/bits, so it still looks fairly easy to me. I have some gift cards burning a hole in my pocket, so I may spring for this and a set up block. But my shop is unheated so I won't be using them for a while! Did you look at the video?
    These look cool and when I get my router table I will be tempted to try them.

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  • wogg
    replied
    Originally posted by stephenmarklay View Post

    I like this and when I get a router table, I am all over it
    I do that all the time without a router table, just a 3/8" rabbet bit set to 3/8" depth. Of course MDF and ply aren't exactly 3/4" thick, so there's some tolerance issues, but that's well within my clamp guided cut tolerance anyway so it works out just fine.

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  • skatz
    replied
    Originally posted by dwigle View Post

    Even though they provide a setup block, changing bits and heights between cutting the two mating surfaces adds a lot of complexity and room for error.
    If you are using all 3/4 or 1/2 material there is no need to change heights/bits, so it still looks fairly easy to me. I have some gift cards burning a hole in my pocket, so I may spring for this and a set up block. But my shop is unheated so I won't be using them for a while! Did you look at the video?

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