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How are most of your mounting drivers in cabinets, t-nuts or other?

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  • #16
    Originally posted by Kevin K. View Post

    Out of curiosity, of the two dozen pairs of cabinets you built Craig, you never stripped a screw hole, not even once? If not, ever hold back on how much you tightened a screw the second or third time for fear of stripping it in the wood?

    No. I've never stripped a screw hole building speakers. I always regulate how much I tighten a screw, the first time, second or third.

    I have had to HELICOIL a couple of blind threaded holes in aluminum heads before
    Craig

    The lowest possible F3 box alignment is not always the best alignment.

    Designing and building speaker projects are like playing with adult Lego Blocks for me.

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    • #17
      I usually use wood screws of some sort for small drivers, but in the case of heavy sub drivers it seemed like some strength was appropriate. Especially since the mounting holes were very close to the edge of the panel cutout.
      Francis

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      • #18
        Another +1 for these beauties. I usually have MDF baffles, and I tend to be a pit picky about my choice of screw head, opting for socket head cap screws or hex head screws over Philips drive wherever I can. That generally means machine thread screws instead of wood screws, although PE does sell socket head wood screws that are middling to OK quality. These inserts do the job well and are not too temperamental if you align the driver where you want it (centered with shims) and use a self centering drill bit to mark your holes.

        I did skip the inserts on my Defiants, Superbees, and a little guy I haven't finished yet, and the wood screws held up sufficiently without stripping the MDF. I generally tighten the driver down enough to compress the gasket, and no further. I figure I'm not gaining anything once the gasket is compressed, so I'd just be pressing my luck with further torque. Can't say I've ever stripped out an MDF screw hole... I guess I just like extra insurance when it may be useful, so the hex inserts are always handy.
        Voxel Down Firing with Dayton SA70
        Translam Subwoofers - The Jedi Mind Tricks
        The Super Bees - Garage 2 way
        SevenSixTwo - InDIYana 2018 Coax
        The Defiants - InDIYana 2019 "Bare Minimum" Build

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        • #19
          Hex Socket Head wood screws

          No matter where you go, there you are.
          Website

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          • #20
            I'm making some speakers with the driver attached from the back of the front baffle with a roundover or chamfer. Because I don't want a screw/bolt head to show and there isn't much material for a screw to grab ahold of, I have used the threaded inserts above (Kevin K and KEtheridge87) and also hanger bolts.

            I don't know the best place to get them, but I found "Hard-to-Find Fastener Hanger Bolts, 8-32 x 1, Piece-20." However, a box of 20 hanger bolts cost me what 100 threaded inserts did.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by gowa View Post
              Hex Socket Head wood screws
              I use those for small drivers.
              Francis

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              • #22
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                Last edited by djg; 01-13-2020, 08:18 PM.

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                • #23
                  I personally build all of my cabinets out of Russian Baltic Birch plywood in varying thicknesses depending on the application. for all PA, guitar, and bass guitar applications I prefer to use 6-prong T-Nuts with grade 8 SHCS. Where I have run into trouble with this is when the mounting flange on the driver is very narrow; this places the T-Nut prongs passed the cutout in the baffle. In this case I have needed to add additional material at the mounting point of the nuts. To ensure that everything lines up correctly I use self centering VIX bits. I have never had a T-Nut not line up correctly using this method. These bits work amazing for mounting speakers using any method. They give a perfectly centered pilot hole for the fastener to properly engage in. I will note that you should only buy the VIX brand with the smooth/round shank vs. the hex shank off-brands that are significantly cheaper. I have had the cheaper one's come apart while drilling holes at the most un-opportune times. These bits should be in every speaker builder's arsenal.

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                  Now on the contrary, mounting tweeters, mid-range drivers, and smaller woofers for HT applications I stick to black oxide wood screws from PE.
                  "I don't know everything and do not claim to. I continue to learn and that is what makes me human."

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