Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

How are most of your mounting drivers in cabinets, t-nuts or other?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • STIchris722
    replied
    I personally build all of my cabinets out of Russian Baltic Birch plywood in varying thicknesses depending on the application. for all PA, guitar, and bass guitar applications I prefer to use 6-prong T-Nuts with grade 8 SHCS. Where I have run into trouble with this is when the mounting flange on the driver is very narrow; this places the T-Nut prongs passed the cutout in the baffle. In this case I have needed to add additional material at the mounting point of the nuts. To ensure that everything lines up correctly I use self centering VIX bits. I have never had a T-Nut not line up correctly using this method. These bits work amazing for mounting speakers using any method. They give a perfectly centered pilot hole for the fastener to properly engage in. I will note that you should only buy the VIX brand with the smooth/round shank vs. the hex shank off-brands that are significantly cheaper. I have had the cheaper one's come apart while drilling holes at the most un-opportune times. These bits should be in every speaker builder's arsenal.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	dscn0935.jpg
Views:	85
Size:	62.2 KB
ID:	1429828
    Now on the contrary, mounting tweeters, mid-range drivers, and smaller woofers for HT applications I stick to black oxide wood screws from PE.

    Leave a comment:


  • djg
    replied
    Click image for larger version

Name:	image.jpg
Views:	123
Size:	53.3 KB
ID:	1429348 Click image for larger version  Name:	econowave.jpg Views:	0 Size:	104.4 KB ID:	1429338
    Last edited by djg; 01-13-2020, 07:18 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • fpitas
    replied
    Originally posted by gowa View Post
    Hex Socket Head wood screws
    I use those for small drivers.

    Leave a comment:


  • a4eaudio
    replied
    I'm making some speakers with the driver attached from the back of the front baffle with a roundover or chamfer. Because I don't want a screw/bolt head to show and there isn't much material for a screw to grab ahold of, I have used the threaded inserts above (Kevin K and KEtheridge87) and also hanger bolts.

    I don't know the best place to get them, but I found "Hard-to-Find Fastener Hanger Bolts, 8-32 x 1, Piece-20." However, a box of 20 hanger bolts cost me what 100 threaded inserts did.

    Leave a comment:


  • gowa
    replied
    Hex Socket Head wood screws

    Leave a comment:


  • KEtheredge87
    replied
    Another +1 for these beauties. I usually have MDF baffles, and I tend to be a pit picky about my choice of screw head, opting for socket head cap screws or hex head screws over Philips drive wherever I can. That generally means machine thread screws instead of wood screws, although PE does sell socket head wood screws that are middling to OK quality. These inserts do the job well and are not too temperamental if you align the driver where you want it (centered with shims) and use a self centering drill bit to mark your holes.

    I did skip the inserts on my Defiants, Superbees, and a little guy I haven't finished yet, and the wood screws held up sufficiently without stripping the MDF. I generally tighten the driver down enough to compress the gasket, and no further. I figure I'm not gaining anything once the gasket is compressed, so I'd just be pressing my luck with further torque. Can't say I've ever stripped out an MDF screw hole... I guess I just like extra insurance when it may be useful, so the hex inserts are always handy.

    Leave a comment:


  • fpitas
    replied
    I usually use wood screws of some sort for small drivers, but in the case of heavy sub drivers it seemed like some strength was appropriate. Especially since the mounting holes were very close to the edge of the panel cutout.

    Leave a comment:


  • PWR RYD
    replied
    Originally posted by Kevin K. View Post

    Out of curiosity, of the two dozen pairs of cabinets you built Craig, you never stripped a screw hole, not even once? If not, ever hold back on how much you tightened a screw the second or third time for fear of stripping it in the wood?

    No. I've never stripped a screw hole building speakers. I always regulate how much I tighten a screw, the first time, second or third.

    I have had to HELICOIL a couple of blind threaded holes in aluminum heads before

    Leave a comment:


  • billfitzmaurice
    replied
    Mounting the crossover externally eliminates the need to remove drivers to tweak it, as well as immeasurably speeding up the tweaking process, since you can swap components and see the result in real time.

    Leave a comment:


  • a4eaudio
    replied
    If you strip the hole, stuff some toothpicks, cut to size if needed, with a few drops of wood glue in the hole. When you add the screw again it will push the toothpicks outward and create pressure for the threads to grab.

    Leave a comment:


  • Kevin K.
    replied
    Originally posted by PWR RYD View Post
    Just a question, who removes their drivers more than two times? I've designed and built around two dozen pairs of speakers and I don't recall ever having to install, remove, install, remove, install, remove, install.
    In traditional (passive) speakers, probably not many. Typically, I'll build raw mdf cabinets, install the drivers, take measurements and work out the crossovers, followed by removing the drivers and covering the cabinets in veneer, and then re-install the drivers. On occasion, damping needs to be played around with (add some, remove some), so that might lead to another removal and installation of a driver.

    The speakers I'm currently working on are Active/Passive 3-ways with the DSP amplifier and crossover mounted inside the cabinet. To make changes to the DSP programming of the amp, the woofer has to come back out to access the programming port of the amp. In this instance, I can definitely see installing and removing drivers several times due to the complexity of the design.

    Out of curiosity, of the two dozen pairs of cabinets you built Craig, you never stripped a screw hole, not even once? If not, ever hold back on how much you tightened a screw the second or third time for fear of stripping it in the wood?

    Leave a comment:


  • tomzarbo
    replied
    I could see it for changes to a crossover over time I guess... some guys never really "finish" a crossover. But I think if you're careful to not over-tighten the screws, even a dozen remove/install cycles shouldn't be an issue I wouldn't think.
    TomZ

    Leave a comment:


  • PWR RYD
    replied
    Just a question, who removes their drivers more than two times? I've designed and built around two dozen pairs of speakers and I don't recall ever having to install, remove, install, remove, install, remove, install.

    Leave a comment:


  • CJB67
    replied
    I switched to threaded brass inserts years ago. I've had T-nuts strip out more than a few times when trying to remove a driver and it's a PITA. Having said that, the black oxide screws that PE sells are just fine if you don't plan on removing your drivers often (and they're A LOT cheaper).

    Leave a comment:


  • djg
    replied
    I use the black PE sheet metal screws. When I built Tom Z's Tenacious sub, I did use two machine screws and nuts and the rest sheet metal screws to hold the Tang Band W8-740 sub, as it is heavy and mounted facing down. I am going to build a Silver D Vapor project. The top speaker is open baffle. I may use machine screws and nuts for a neater rear view.

    For my 8" Dayton subs, I added blocks of wood at the 6 mounting points, as the rather deep speaker rebate left about 3/8" of MDF for holding a heavy driver.

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X