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Piano black finish and scratches

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  • #16
    Do it by hand if you've never polished with a powered buffer. It's really easy to overheat and burn the finish. Also, a buffer will have a tendency to grab at edges where the paint is the thinnest. Start with the finest compound you can find, something like a swirl remover. If that doesn't work then go to a more aggressive abrasive. The fact that a microfiber cloth scratched the speakers means it's a very soft finish. You might want to practice first on something disposable, make yourself a painted panel, scratch it and see what it takes to bring it back to a gloss.


    • #17
      Originally posted by skatz View Post
      You could contact KEF for their advice.
      I wonder how much good a paste wax like Renaissance might be? It would be a lot simpler than the above suggestions.
      Paste wax won't fill the scratches. Nothing will. Getting rid of scratches requires removing the finish around them, bringing it down to their level. How much removal is required depends how deep the scratches are. Getting the finish right involves exactly the same techniques that were employed to create it in the first place. If the scratches are severe, like a cat decided to test its claws on it, you still duplicate the same process as was originally used, you just have to go back a few more steps. Hopefully not all the way back to bare wood, but that's also an option.


      • #18
        Wax is amazing stuff. And cheap. The darker colored wax works so well on scratched cars that it's often used by the flakier car dealers to hide pretty significant damage. As the wax wears off in the weather or the car wash, the scratches re-appear. I'm not making this up. I grew up in the car business. Any old automotive paste wax will hide a lot under the sheen. It also reduces further damage from light abrasion.

        Really, don't even think of using power tools on finished speakers unless you know enough about it, and have enough experience that you don't need to seek advice here. Burning the paint off edges is the easiest thing in the world to do with a power buffer, or even by hand. It takes a lot of experience to be really good at it. As someone noted above, if the finish is soft enough to be scratched with a microfiber cloth, it won't take much to wreck it completely.


        • #19
          Yup, good advice here. Step one would be rubbing compound to remove the surface scratches. Try a small inconspicuous spot and you should know quickly if it's doing the job. I would apply some sort of wax (paste or even automotive wax) after.

          I have heard of the coloured auto wax for covering scratches but I have not used it. May be a simple solution if rubbing compound doesn't work. Again, it hides scratches but doesn't remove them.

          If rubbing compound doesn't do it and you don't want to try coloured wax, then wet sanding with fine grit is the next option, followed by a cutting compound and polish and wax.


          • #20
            Thank you again everyone. I used this which is what I have used on my cars. I like these products (I think all new polishes are similar) in that the do not tend to haze the finish. On a car this will get you to a final finish that looks great.

            I do have a DA which I actually have used on my own builds. But I am not going to use it on these. It does not need it and I want to do a really small area and work outward from that.

            I have the M105 which is very aggressive (but is also good about not hazing)

            I have novus plastic cleaner that might also work:


            I will work on it some more on Saturday and post my results.


            • #21
              Mirror Glaze is what I'd use as the last component in a two or three part rub out, if I used Meguiars. I use Menzerna products, for both furniture and my car. They helpfully label their products Step 1, 2, 3 and 4. I like them not only for how well they work but also for how easily they wipe off when you're done.


              • #22
                Work backwards, try a very fine polishing compound first, if that doesn't work going to a more aggressive one. I would start with a swirl remover as John suggested, and if that is ineffective, try a microfiber polishing compound.


                • #23
                  Great advice Nick (ugly woofer)!

                  The lowest possible F3 box alignment is not always the best alignment.

                  Designing and building speaker projects are like playing with adult Lego Blocks for me.


                  • #24
                    Thank you guys. Yes for sure I start with the least aggressive compound that will do the job. I believe the M205 is aboutt he same cut as the swirl remover actually.