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  • R.J. Knuth
    replied
    Originally posted by Kornbread View Post
    Did the first IB with a RadioShack db meter, page of hand written correction values for that meter, homemade test-tone cd, stand that fit right onto a place marked on the floor, and several sheets of notebook paper. It took months of afternoons to get it dialed.

    Looking at the nx line on PE, DSP can be a $50 to $100 option. It's your money. Is it worth that to you? For me it would be. One shortcoming with using pro-amps is the audio voltage input required to get maximum output so using something like a basic minidsp 2x4 with .9v output, may be a concern. That's a shame because the minidsp is stupid simple to manipulate, affordable, and trouble-free.
    I made a clamp with a holder for the RS meter that put it exactly ear level of the center section of the couch. I printed out my corrections in #8 font so I could fit the paper in the case with the meter.. I seem to remember having a real test CD with white noise, pink noise, warble tones and sweeps on it. No idea where it is now. Probably loaned it out years ago and forgot about it. but I have another that I got just for bass setup that should do the trick

    I have enough boxes that I have to plug in so if I can get what I want in one chassis instead of two or three that is how I'm going to go. I did just realize that I'll have to put in another connection cup in since now I'll have 2 speaker wires instead of just the one I have now. That is unless the sub comes out with a dual 4 ohm version then I could run the 2 subs in series-parrallel and keep a 4 ohm load as I'm doing now

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  • Kornbread
    replied
    Did the first IB with a RadioShack db meter, page of hand written correction values for that meter, homemade test-tone cd, stand that fit right onto a place marked on the floor, and several sheets of notebook paper. It took months of afternoons to get it dialed.

    Looking at the nx line on PE, DSP can be a $50 to $100 option. It's your money. Is it worth that to you? For me it would be. One shortcoming with using pro-amps is the audio voltage input required to get maximum output so using something like a basic minidsp 2x4 with .9v output, may be a concern. That's a shame because the minidsp is stupid simple to manipulate, affordable, and trouble-free.

    Leave a comment:


  • R.J. Knuth
    replied
    Originally posted by Kornbread View Post
    That will probably be my next IB amp; power and dsp.

    Is there such a thing as overkill when it comes to subs? I went from 4 15" Dayton IB to 2 18" Stereo Integrity in an IB configuration ... overkill? I'm thinking just barely adequate.

    In 2001, mmmm... thinking you had the option of a Behringer Feedback Destroyer Pro. Back in the day, a Radio Shack spl meter and the FDP were the bomb for eq'ing IB setups. Now days, even REW can export settings automatically to the FDP. Most decent HT receivers have a decent set of eq/crossover options. You may not even need an additional dsp for the sub.
    My 5509 is doing fine at the moment with 9.1. No Atmos but there are many things to buy and only so much I can play with. However it doesn't have the DSP correction or EQ I'm looking for. I still have my RS DB meter. As for the Beringer I remember seeing that for the first time a few months after I was finished and it just never made it into the budget.

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  • Kornbread
    replied
    That will probably be my next IB amp; power and dsp.

    Is there such a thing as overkill when it comes to subs? I went from 4 15" Dayton IB to 2 18" Stereo Integrity in an IB configuration ... overkill? I'm thinking just barely adequate.

    In 2001, mmmm... thinking you had the option of a Behringer Feedback Destroyer Pro. Back in the day, a Radio Shack spl meter and the FDP were the bomb for eq'ing IB setups. Now days, even REW can export settings automatically to the FDP. Most decent HT receivers have a decent set of eq/crossover options. You may not even need an additional dsp for the sub.

    Leave a comment:


  • DanP
    replied
    I think the NX6000D will work just fine. Plenty of power and plenty of DSP to do what you want.

    Dan

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  • R.J. Knuth
    started a topic A story and questions

    A story and questions

    After I moved into this house I converted the family room into the Home Theater room. Over time a few subs made their way in and out of the system but I kept looking at the storage room under the stairs on the outside of the interior wall. A half door had been installed and it even had a light. I first thought this would be great to put all the electronics in but getting 3 more lines of power to that location would involve ripping out the ceiling so I passed on that. My next thought was an IB sub. The room was 85 cubic feet and so a little small for an IB so I looked at it as a giant vented box. Since three sides were already concrete or cinder block, I beefed up the other three sides with a layer of 3/4 MDF screwed into the studs or joists. There wasn't a whole lot of speaker calculators available in 2001 but I must have found something because I remember spends a huge amount of time figuring out the vent. Subwoofer selection wasn't like it is now and so I used something I was familiar with - Kicker VRComp 18's - two of them fed with 750 watts into the 4 ohm load. There wasn't any home DSP then so an analog 31 band eq that had 5 bands in the range I used was put to work to get things somewhat better than just dumping signal and power into the sub. I broke a window on the other side of the room testing it.
    Now it is 18+ years later and I want to upgrade so I'm looking at a pair of the Ultimax 18" to drop in the holes I have along with an appropriate amp of 1000-1500 WPC and a dsp with crossover. If I keep the same vent structure WinISD says that the box will be tuned at 14.3hz and If I rebuild a new vent (which is not as easy as it sounds I built the first time to last forever) the box would be tuned at 11hz . I'm pretty sure I won't hear the difference and with room gain and the EQ I might get reasonably flat to 10-12hz anyway. As and FYI the front baffle is two 1 inch pieces of Marine plywood glued and screwed together and then screwed into the 2x6 frame of the old door. It ain't moving. The Theater room itself is 18x26x8 with 4 of the 6 walls/floor concrete or block covered in sheetrock.
    So the first question is - is this reasonable or overkill on the actual subs? What is the DSP du juor that will handle at least crossover and EQ duties(frequency smoothing, linear and parametric EQ) or are multiple units needed to do what I want or is an all in one like a Behringer NX6000D the way to go?

    Thank you and I'm looking forward getting this build started with your help.
    Last edited by R.J. Knuth; 01-12-2020, 12:28 AM.
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