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What are your go tools for accurately building boxes?

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  • #31
    Definitely will want a digital angle gauge if plan on cutting mitres with the table saw. Will agree with a few others here too that you want good brands for your measuring tools (squares etc)
    See my projects on Instagram and Facebook

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    • #32
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      One thing I need is better work surfaces. My shop is mobile. Meaning I lug it all out in front of the garage

      I have seen some pretty neat portable work benches but have not bought anything yet. I plan on making a table saw stand to get my saw at 36” in height which is a comfortable height for me.

      I was looking at getting a portable miter saw stand since my table had always been too low. I was also going to build a stand but I ended up getting a pretty neat Harbor Freight multi use stand.

      The top is a big clamp. This setup is actually very stable. It will also serve as an outfield table for my new table saw. I am making a top with a plywood top and a 2x4 clamp base.

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      • #33
        I still have this stand but upgraded my saw. http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...t-planer-stand
        John H

        Synergy Horn, SLS-85, BMR-3L, Mini-TL, BR-2, Titan OB, B452, Udique, Vultus, Latus1, Seriatim, Aperivox,Pencil Tower

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        • stephenmarklay
          stephenmarklay commented
          Editing a comment
          Nice. So you made it rotate to achieve the height you wanted for each tool? Also what are the holes in the front for?

        • jhollander
          jhollander commented
          Editing a comment
          Yes the edges are the right tool heights and match my other benches. The holes in the front are to get to the hold down bolts

        • stephenmarklay
          stephenmarklay commented
          Editing a comment
          Gotcha. Thank you!

      • #34
        Originally posted by bungelow_ed View Post
        Glad to hear you are going with Forrest. Over the last 20'ish years I've tried all the commonly available blades. Many of them are sharp for awhile but the Forrest blades are a "cut' above.
        My Forrest WWII sits on the shelf feeling lonely and unloved. I purchased it several years ago when I wanted to up my blade game and found it's cuts to be sub-par, splintering plywood. After a couple of cuts, I felt what I thought I was a part of a knot hit me in the chest (which didn't make sense since I was cutting plywood). After serval more poor cuts, I pulled the blade and put my Irwin Marples 80t back on for a better finish. Inspecting the WWII blade, I found it was missing a tooth. After a little searching, I found one of the teeth sitting on floor. It had come flying off and hit me int eh chest. Even though I was wearing safety glasses, it would have made for bad day if it had hit me in the neck or face.

        I called and emailed Forrest several times without a single response over serval months of trying to contact them. So the blade sits on the shelf watching me work, longing to get back in to the game like the star quarterback that has been demoted to water boy duty. I stick with Irwin Marples (leaps above Irwin Marathon or any of their other blades) or Freud Diablo. They are readily available at box stores, sharp, and inexpensive to replace. Yes, they don't last as long, but I've never lost a tooth on any of those blades, even when sawing though nails and screws with a my skill saw. Not trying to badmouth Forrest, just sharing my experience with them.

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        • stephenmarklay
          stephenmarklay commented
          Editing a comment
          Thank you Blenton. Hopefully I will have a different experience. You have to wonder if that blade of yours was sub par in some way. Who knows. I did buy the Chomp saw blade so we will see how that compares to my last 80t ATB blade. I will definitely check out the Irwin Blade. Thanks for the tip.

      • #35
        I had to laugh Blenton. I went to the Irwin site and red the marketing. All very impressive sounding. I clicked on the reviews and 1/3 are 1 star. I am sure you have had a great experience with yours similar to all the Forrest followers. I guess a little luck goes a long way

        This was the first review I read and it made me laugh comparing your post. But in truth it sounds like both of the blades, yours and his WERE junk.

        Thank you again.

        ★★★★★ ★★★★★ 1 out of 5 stars.
        steve 763


        · 5 years ago 12" 40t blade 15 deg ATB


        I bought this blade to do trim work with and it worked well for about 2 weeks and then started to cut rough and when 1 of the carbide teeth came off and hit me in the chest and left a red mark and that's threw a sweat shirt and T-shirt what a piece of junk blade!!!!!!!! I have trimmed houses for 15 years and will NEVER buy another one of these blades. there are 13 out of 40 teeth missing or broken on this blade. The place that I get my blades sharpened said that the teeth had a horrible braze job on the teeth ✘ No, I do not recommend this product.

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        • #36
          Ya, definitely. YMMV. I wouldn't touch any Irwin blades but the Marples. And now that I think of it, i'm pretty sure they switch MFG facilities a few years ago which is I started buying Freud Diablos. I know they are not top shelf, but they aren't bottom of the barrel either.

          Honestly, IMO, craftsmanship doesn't have much to do with with which blade you pick. Better blades and better tools aren't going to make you a better carpenter. That comes from patience, practice, knowledge, and learning. But crappy tools sure make it hard to get a job done right so it's worth choosing quality equipment. I'm sure you will be perfectly happy with the WWII blade.

          A small note, however: if memory serves, my WWII blade was a full 1/8" kerf - meaning the blade takes an honest 1/8" of material as it cuts. Most 10" blades that come with a chop saw or table saw are thin-kerf blades which are closer to 3/32". Just make sure you check that you are dialed in correctly when swapping blades or you might find your cuts a little short.

          A second note: tooth count is important on blades and more is not always better. Ripping lumber with an 80T or 100T blade is a bad idea. Get ready for the smoke show and bogged motor. Plywood and sheet goods with an 80t? You bet. Sure, go for it. But match your blade to what you are doing. Crosscutting (across the woodgrain) with a higher tooth count will reduce tear out but cut more slowly than a lower tooth count blade and are the motor work more. I've used several of the 50 tooth 'hybrid' blades with decent results but have gone back to swapping blades back and forth on my table saw. My chop saw has, IIRC, a 60 tooth on it for the moment and it has done a great job on crown and other molding. When I get a higher dollar job I swap a new 80t on there; cuts take a bit more time and I have to remember that and not try and push too fast through the material, but the cuts are smooth and almost tear-out free.

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          • stephenmarklay
            stephenmarklay commented
            Editing a comment
            Thanks Blenton. For sure I am learning a lot about the fundamentals at the moment I have picked up valuable information her for sure. I didn’t even think about speed when cutting or much else besides lining up the blade to my cut line.

            I am not sure if they always have had it but there is a WWII think kerf which is what I am getting. I have a small DeWalt table saw which is probably best with a thin kerf. the rib knife I have is sized for that too so I don’t need a standard 1/8”. They make a blade stabilizer (metal disc place against it to reduce flex) which I may get.

            I have been using an 80t Dewalt blade. It actually cut Baltic Birch well on my chip saw. Splintering was minimized but it eventually was too dull to cut well. I had a new 60t Dewalt blade but it splinters Baltic Birch pretty bad. I built some small boxes and had to fill the tear out. It is not noticeable with the black dye and stain but it was somewhat of a pain in the butt.

            I ordered the Forrester 80t Chompmaster for my Chop saw. It is one of the radial arm saws which I have used extensively. I have never owned a table saw so everything was done on the chop saw. I could even rip up to 2” for side panels if I had to and I have. I do this buy cutting the first 12” then flipping the board front to back and precisely lining up the blade with the first cut. I got good enough that I could not even feel a transition. I am happy I have a table saw now!

            I am probably getting the WWII in a 40t thin kerf. The 40t is there standard rip/crosscut blade. You can get a 48t which they say will still rip 1-2” hardwood but I emailed them and I was recommended the 40t oner the 48t (I was also recommended the 80t Chopmaster vs the 90t Signature version which has a slightly different blade profile.) I told them I was cutting a lot of Baltic Birch but would also cut some other woods. I have used beach wood for baffle stops etc and that is dense like oak.

            I appreciate the tips.
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