Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Is the a way to figure out the right amount of stuffing?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Is the a way to figure out the right amount of stuffing?

    Hey guys, was getting a bit confused with the stuffing requirements, using ND65-4'S, each in a 0.045cuft enclosure with a 20mm port, 100mm long(4") and also has a BSC, I noticed that without anything the top end is a bit bright and the bass sounds pretty good, but if a completely stuff the top end sounds better but the low end is slightly muffled. So thinking that half stuff will be the sweet spot? Or would it be best to line the rear to stop.any funky frequencies from bouncing off.the wood?

  • #2
    I'd start with lining every wall and adjust down from there. Don't fully stuff.

    Comment


    • #3
      You don't stuff ported enclosures, you line them. You can see the effect of both lining and stuffing on the low frequencies in modeling software that allows for the adjustment of Qa. A Qa value of 100 is a bare enclosure, 50 is lined, 10 is filled, 5 is filled and compressed. How it does what it does may be seen on the impedance chart.
      www.billfitzmaurice.com
      www.billfitzmaurice.info/forum

      Comment


      • #4
        I'm going to have to guess that you haven't noticed (yet) how "directional" the little ND65s are (I've got a pr. of "desktop" computer speakers (call 'em "femtoneo") using the 65-8s in about 0.05cf vented). My box design puts them 8"-9" above my (computer) desk top.
        The thing is, my EARS are another 8"-9" above THAT (so the drivers are really "aimed" at my chest, more or less). If I drop my head down (OR tilt the "bricks" back) the highs get noticeably "brighter". I'm guessin' you could "tune" yours by doing something similar (or by toeing them in-or-out?). Weren't your 1st little speakers built w/angled back boxes for this same reason?

        This helps make craig's point that even though these FR drivers are pretty small (2-1/2"?), and back (only) 40 years ago (before domes got REAL popular) the 'tweeter" (in even a 3-WAY) was only about a 3" cone driver (more often than not); these little guys STILL benefit from a (even very small) dome tweeter. I know my next (small - "desktop") build will be a 2-way. The dome's dispersion just makes for a much more lively presentation that's not so critical of your head/speaker placement issues.

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks for the responses, I lined another speaker and it was successful in the past. I have to rethink a couple of things like mounting and putting some hot glue lightly around the edge of the driver (or silicone) as well as finding some shorter screws. Didn't think about the fact I changed wood thickness and may have slightly poked through the other end...

          My first attempt with the speakers was a failure, second I stuffed up and didn't notice that the ohms when pairing two drivers was below allowable tolerances and the 3rd was getting close, but then I put a long rectangle port in a tiny box which significantly reduced the internal volume, not to mention I super glued the frame to the timber which ripped the rubber off a speaker when attempting to remove......so I haven't had much luck with the drivers to date, which is all a mixture of user error and impatience.

          the test we did yesterday was putting it on the kitchen island me standing directly in front (off to the side) and my wife on the couch just below driver height and then just started experimenting with the wadding. There were a few things like the speakers being loosely mounted, back of box was me holding it there, and a few others, but no distortion and I even tried the crazy bass tracks on YouTube which helped find the issues last time.

          Comment


          • #6
            Not a massive speaker, not finished yet, but will suit the purpose of being battery powered and portable
            Attached Files

            Comment

            Working...
            X