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First attempt at crossover design

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  • BTRaulerson
    replied
    That's a great point. Also, it didn't cost me (or my brother) a single cent. Can't really call that a loss, can we? It did get my creative juices flowing. I'll probably try another design soon for me or who knows who. Maybe something for my oldest daughter who will graduate soon. I shudder at the thought of making "dorm speakers" but I guess empty nest is a part of life.

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  • rpb
    replied
    It's been fun thinking of speaker options, so not wasted time really.

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  • BTRaulerson
    replied
    Well, I told him about the monkey coffin project and he starts crying about not having space for them and how heavy they would be. EXCUSE ME, I thought you lived alone and had plenty of space. So now I'm thinking about just ordering a set of Amigas or getting the new AriaTRIX kit. He's getting hard of hearing and I figured that a 15" driver could beat some sound into that nearly solid head of his. It feels like I've wasted some of your time here but even at this point I've learned more about crossovers and speaker building. I've also learned what a great group of members we have here. Thank you all again.

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  • Chris Roemer
    replied
    carn-sarn kadad-blasted ding-busted spammers !

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  • rpb
    replied
    Originally posted by Chris Roemer View Post
    The bump on the woofer @ 1.7k is down by over -40dB, not to worry.
    If you cross the mid even higher, IT's "bump" @ 5.5k will probably become a problem.
    That's a spam post. That was a word for word copy of my post #2 in this thread.

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  • Chris Roemer
    replied
    The bump on the woofer @ 1.7k is down by over -40dB, not to worry.
    If you cross the mid even higher, IT's "bump" @ 5.5k will probably become a problem.

    Leave a comment:


  • rpb
    replied
    Use a really sturdy work table!

    I agree with Chris on the baffle step. These drivers seem to match well with no padding, yet my concern would be that the bass might just be too overwhelming for the tonal balance that I like. A lot depends on the room placement, and personal preference.

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  • dlr
    replied
    Originally posted by BTRaulerson View Post
    I'm stuck. Where does the nasty spike come from at around 300 hertz? What am I missing? The sub is the Dayton Audio 15" 4 ohm DCS380-4, the mid is the DA RS150P-4 6" 4 ohm, and the tweeter is a DA RST28F-4 1 and 1/8th inch 4 ohm tweeter. I think I used a 2nd order high pass for the tweeter, 2nd order high/low pass for the mid and a 3rd order low pass for the woofer.
    Phase spikes such as those can't exist in drivers. This can be verified simply by looking at the smoothness of the raw response of the drivers at the same point as the phase anomalies.

    I would say it's due to one (or more) of several possibilities: the data is spliced from near-field and far-field measurements that have not had phase re-generated for minimum-phase response after splicing to properly align the phase of both measurements, anomalies from interpolation after importation of the raw files into the software or graphing anomalies due to the type of curve fitting used for the continuous display of the discrete data. I've seen the third one in both the PCD and my WinPCD software. You can safely ignore those. However, I would suggest processing your raw files to re-generate minimum-phase response. Just be sure that you have reasonable driver acoustic offset estimates, required when using minimum-phase files.

    dlr

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  • Chris Roemer
    replied
    Your drivers all need their "offsets" (X, Y, Z) numbers filled in, or your phase will be all wonky (throwing your "summing" off).
    (That means that you need to create "minimum phase" files. And I think the spike is in your woofer's .frd file.)
    I built some 5cf speakers once. They were just TOO HUGE to be given a place in my friend's living room ! !

    You have NO "baffle-step" in these; but... it prob'ly wounldn't be needed if the woofer's near the floor (which I'd assume it would be)?
    You should be able to get rid of the 2k "dip" by making the mid's LP filter values slightly smaller (or the tweeter's HP filter values a bit larger).

    Try just a 2nd order on the woofer (6mH coil & 200uF shunt cap).

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  • rpb
    replied
    That's big! Is the room big? Since they won't be tall, are you going to slope the front baffle, possibly? The x-over sims assume listening on the tweeter axis. If the tweeter is going to be 30" off the floor, the response will be different at higher positions, especially up close. If the listening position is 16 feet away, it's less of an issue. I assume these are more for hard rock, than audiophile listening, but sometimes you can accomplish both.

    I can read the graphs now.

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  • BTRaulerson
    replied
    3 drivers, all rated at 4 ohm. I'm ........... pretty certain the arc welder will tolerate 4 ohm. The speakers will be gigantic. Roughly 24"x24"x36". Sorry about the tiny screenshot. Not sure how to change it but I'll try.

    Edit: I tried to change the screenshot properties.
    Click image for larger version

Name:	Monkey Coffin.jpg
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    Attached Files

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  • rpb
    replied
    Are you using more than 3 drivers? These 4 ohm drivers will likely yield a 4 ohm speaker. Will the amplifier tolerate that load?

    Your sim is too small to read, but I'd look at the impedance files of the woofer, and mid, and see if there is a odd jump in the impedance, that in reality, is not there.
    Look at the frd files too.

    How big is this speaker going to be?

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  • BTRaulerson
    replied
    I'm stuck. Where does the nasty spike come from at around 300 hertz? What am I missing? The sub is the Dayton Audio 15" 4 ohm DCS380-4, the mid is the DA RS150P-4 6" 4 ohm, and the tweeter is a DA RST28F-4 1 and 1/8th inch 4 ohm tweeter. I think I used a 2nd order high pass for the tweeter, 2nd order high/low pass for the mid and a 3rd order low pass for the woofer.

    Leave a comment:


  • BTRaulerson
    replied
    I think the "Rockin’ It Old School Alternate" project is closer to what I'm looking for. Those are monkey coffins for sure! Thank you for the suggestion though. I picked out some Dayton drivers, all 4 ohm, but I'm struggling quite a bit with the crossover. I'm going to read some more and see if I can figure it out.

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  • Dukk
    replied
    How about the Tarkus? Sounds like what you are looking for. https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/tarkus

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