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Bagby Kairos build - need feedback

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  • Bagby Kairos build - need feedback

    Hi all! First post.

    Planning to build Kairos for a while, I just made some 3D renders to plan out the build. Doing the 2-way for now, and will eventually build the woofer cabinets. I wanted to know your thoughts about the structure, and if this is enough bracing - I plan to add Kilmat-like sound deadening material to the inside (like https://www.amazon.com/Noico-deadening-Automotive-Insulation-dampening/dp/B01KZ5X7KO/), the build will be 0.75" MDF, CNC cut, with veneer finish. Any thoughts welcome!

    More images here: https://imgur.com/a/NZSwb74 (and will keep adding images there)
    Reddit x-post: https://www.reddit.com/r/diyaudio/co...uild_feedback/
    Last edited by groker; 02-14-2020, 05:54 PM.

  • #2
    Personally, I would add braces or a brace connecting the top ad and bottom panels as well
    https://www.facebook.com/Mosaic-Audi...7373763888294/

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    • #3
      The sound material you linked is for sticking to automobile sheet metal. I wouldn't use it in a wood or mdf speaker box. It's for damping vibrations in thin sheet metal.

      The kit has a box plan, the kit has a long writeup, I would follow that.

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      • groker
        groker commented
        Editing a comment
        Ah, I see. If the purpose is to just deaden the box, what is the difference? Just curious

    • #4
      Thank you, @iseagle4031!

      How about this? (all bracing in oak, just for visual rendering)
      Attached Files

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      • #5
        Originally posted by groker View Post
        Thank you, @iseagle4031!

        How about this? (all bracing in oak, just for visual rendering)
        perfect!
        https://www.facebook.com/Mosaic-Audi...7373763888294/

        Comment


        • #6
          Originally posted by djg View Post
          The sound material you linked is for sticking to automobile sheet metal. I wouldn't use it in a wood or mdf speaker box. It's for damping vibrations in thin sheet metal.
          Butyl rubber is a good sound dampener and quite a bit cheaper than Sorbothane. If you search Noico in the forum you will see that DaveFred and KEtheridge87 have used it and I believe Keith mentioned he found out about it via Javad S. I used a different brand in my speaker build.

          I think you don't see it used that much because (i) its not particularly cheap (although not prohibitively expensive either); and (ii) there isn't much (any?) A/B testing to show that it audibly makes a difference. I used it because I thought it might make a positive difference and was unlikely to harm the sound quality.

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          • #7
            Fiberglass, rock wool, denim insulation and porous foam are often used to line ported cabs. Sealed cabs are generally stuffed. Polyester pillow stuffing, or the way more expensive acousta stuf.

            Cabinet Damping Material | Speaker Components - Parts Express

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            • #8
              I'm planning to build a sealed two-way and port the woofer cabinet, so I guess I'll denim line both boxes and stuff the two-way with pillow filling.

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              • #9
                Looks solid!
                If you're internally mounting the XO , it could get tight in there. I built mine a couple of years ago and ended up putting the tweeter on its own little board to get a little more separation on the inductors.
                If you're going 3 way (which i highly recommend - see my new thread) you may want to make it external from the get go.
                BEER: Proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy

                I've measured many things I cannot hear; and heard things I cannot measure...

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                • #10
                  Thanks, jeff-free69! I took your advice and I'm working on a 3-way design (very likely going for the 56 liter vented enclosure based on Troels Gravesen's SBAcoustics 10 design, with 4in vent that elbows 90 degrees upwards. I'm still a bit lost on bracing, wondering if my two-way box has way too much bracing that it is beginning to affect internal volume.

                  I'd really appreciate some feedback on the bracing If there is anything else I can improve, do let me know!

                  Also, more pictures and reddit post

                  P.S.: RIP, Jeff Bagby.
                  Attached Files

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                  • #11
                    It's technically better to (slightly) stagger bracing so you don't end up w/many (basically) of the exact same size panels (as they'd all resonate at the same freqs.).

                    Comment


                    • #12
                      What you've designed is the original plans in essence. Make it happen. Love nice bracing.

                      I need to finish mine......
                      Builds - C-Killa - Speedsters - LithMTM - Talking Sticks - Pocket Rockets - Khanspires - Dayton RS Center - RS225/28A - Kairos - Adelphos - SEOS TD12X - Dayton 8 - Needles - 871S - eD6c - Overnight Sensations - Tritrix (ported) - Lineup F4 - Stentorians - The Cheapies - Tub Thumpers - Barbells - Tuba HT - Numerous subwoofers - probably missing a few...... :p

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                      • #13
                        Originally posted by groker View Post
                        Thanks, jeff-free69! I took your advice and I'm working on a 3-way design. I'm still a bit lost on bracing, wondering if my two-way box has way too much bracing that it is beginning to affect internal volume.
                        I'd really appreciate some feedback on the bracing If there is anything else I can improve, do let me know!
                        I think slightly shrinking the internal volume of the sealed 2way with a little too much bracing should only be a problem if you're playing it full-range down low without a sub. I believe the 200hz or higher crossover between the sealed 2way and the subwoofer below it should limit the mid-woofer's lows and excursion enough that a slightly smaller internal box volume won't affect it.
                        The 3way should work great.

                        Comment


                        • #14
                          Originally posted by Chris Roemer View Post
                          It's technically better to (slightly) stagger bracing so you don't end up w/many (basically) of the exact same size panels (as they'd all resonate at the same freqs.).
                          Thank you! What do you mean, slightly stagger it? Make it different sizes? Position it slightly forward/backward?

                          Originally posted by LOUT View Post
                          I think slightly shrinking the internal volume of the sealed 2way with a little too much bracing should only be a problem if you're playing it full-range down low without a sub. I believe the 200hz or higher crossover between the sealed 2way and the subwoofer below it should limit the mid-woofer's lows and excursion enough that a slightly smaller internal box volume won't affect it.
                          The 3way should work great.
                          That makes sense! Although I'm thinking about keeping the two-way fully functional too, if I can - just in case I want to part it out/move it around to a different location without disturbing the woofer extension

                          Comment


                          • #15
                            Originally posted by groker View Post

                            Thank you! What do you mean, slightly stagger it? Make it different sizes? Position it slightly forward/backward?
                            The braces sub-divide the panels into smaller sections. Make those sections different sizes, to spread the panel resonances.
                            Francis

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