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Jeff Bagby Tribute

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  • #76
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ID:	1442739Specific places of the cabinet are lined in 3/4" Sonic Barrier Foam. A bandsaw guide like the one in this picture makes quick work of the cuts. I use a 14 tooth per inch 1/2" wide blade.
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ID:	1442740A picture showing the damping lining the upper portion of the cabinet.
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ID:	1442741Here is a close up of one of the mitered edges after the tape was removed.
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ID:	1442742Last piece of the damping material applied to the top right before gluing the top of the cabinet on.
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ID:	1442743 Tape can be used across a mitered panel as well. The downside to it is the glue can now squeeze out in both directions, inside and outside. Easy enough to clean up.
    My "No-Name" CC Speaker
    Kerry's "Silverbacks"
    Ben's Synchaeta's for Mom
    The Archers
    Rick's "db" Desktop CBT Arrays
    The Gandalf's

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    • #77
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ID:	1442745Once the cabinet was glued and assembled, a dry fit test was done with the baffle, no issues, everything came together as I hoped it would.
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ID:	1442746Final piece of the puzzle for the cabinet assembly, baffle glued and clamped. Veneer work starts next.
      My "No-Name" CC Speaker
      Kerry's "Silverbacks"
      Ben's Synchaeta's for Mom
      The Archers
      Rick's "db" Desktop CBT Arrays
      The Gandalf's

      Comment


      • #78
        Kevin - This is amazing work and worthy of a tribute to the master, Mr. Bagby.

        I've been away from the forum and the hobby for quite some time, and I was devastated to read of his passing. My Continuum's are still in daily use, and they're still my most prized speakers. I was lucky enough to meet him once at the 2015 InDIYana, and I will always cherish meeting him. These remind me very much of the Spirit Winds, which he debuted there. My condolences to his friends and family. He will be missed, remembered, and revered!

        I look forward to following the progress of these!
        DARPA Jr - 2015 InDIYana Winner - RS180-8 + RS100P-8 + ND25FA
        The Aria's - RS150-4 (or RS150-8) + XT25SC90
        The Mariposa's - TEBM65C20F-8 + ND16FA
        The Canzonetta's - RS100P-8 and ND16FA
        AudioSource AMP-100 Mods OR Pyle PAMP1000 Mods

        Comment


        • Kevin K.
          Kevin K. commented
          Editing a comment
          Thank you Sir! I think I recall us talking years back on one of your threads. Glad to see you back, wish we were talking again under other circumstances. His absence will be felt around here for a long time.

      • #79
        Confession: By far, the hardest part of this build for me was picking the veneer. I looked at many different species and reached out to several friends for their opinions, you guys know who you are and thanks again for letting me bounce all the different choices off you. It's difficult, if not impossible to cater to all the different individual's taste in one veneer species. So, it was either a matter of going with the current trend, which at the moment is greys or looking for something really unique and letting the character of the wood overcome individuals color preferences. I feel I found a unique enough lot of veneer to appeal to most and hope it does well in the raffle Rick plans for Jeff's family. On to the veneer work.

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ID:	1442750The second stack from the left is the material this set of cabinets was built from. I purchased four pieces, consecutive so they could be bookmatched. For reference, each piece is 6" wide and 94" long. Prices vary depending on quality, this lot's price was $9.50 per square foot. Total for the fours sheets came out to $160.00, very reasonable IMO considering the color and character. By far, some of the most beautiful veneer I've worked with to date.

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ID:	1442751I've bookmatched a few times now. IMO, the veneer needs to be as flat as possible for good book matches. You can buy softeners or you can make your own. Found a recipe online a couple of years ago, it has worked well for me. 6 parts distilled water, 3 parts denatured alchohol, 1 part glycerin.

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ID:	1442752 Found this tip online sometime back and it makes a world of difference when crosscutting veneer. Lightly dampen the veneer with a wet cloth along your cut line, both sides. Before I found this tip, I almost always fractured the veneer towards the end I was pulling towards with the veneer saw (pictured next). Haven't had any issues since incorporating this into my routine. This tip is really only needed for crosscuts, cuts with the grain are much easier.
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ID:	1442753In this case, I needed to retain as much of the original width as possible. Two consecutive pieces of the veneer were crosscut to length first and then stacked on top of each other for the rip cut. I prefer a piece of MDF as the straight edge to guide with, no chance of it damaging my veneer saw blade. The little handsaw can be purchased from numerous places online. I like to support small business owners when I can and get most of my tools and supplies from Veneer Supplies.com. Here is a link to the saw. https://www.veneersupplies.com/produ...eneer-Saw.html

        My "No-Name" CC Speaker
        Kerry's "Silverbacks"
        Ben's Synchaeta's for Mom
        The Archers
        Rick's "db" Desktop CBT Arrays
        The Gandalf's

        Comment


        • #80
          Click image for larger version  Name:	5a.jpg Views:	0 Size:	458.1 KB ID:	1442755 Click image for larger version  Name:	6.jpg Views:	0 Size:	445.4 KB ID:	1442756
          It's very easy to lose track of which piece came from which piece of veneer. I mark my individual sheets to help me keep them oriented and tied together. In the picture above, the two pieces came from sheet number 3 and sheet number 4 (top corners are marked). Although you would think as long as these two pieces stayed together, it wouldn't matter which side was up and which side was down. There's a definite difference in the character of the wood when flipped over and it doesn't line up as well one way vs the other. Picture on the right is the same two pieces as on the left but flipped over to see the back side.

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          Once I had two sets, I placed them on a piece of scrap cardboard and sprayed them down with the softener. Wet one side, immediately flip and wet the other side. If you try to saturate the veneer from one side only, it will curl and buckle worse. After they've sat 5-10 minutes soaking up the softener, I'll blot up any remaining puddles and then proceed to put them between two boards to be clamped flat. BTW, if it's not obvious by the second picture, this is when you would usually get a really good idea of what the veneer will look like once finished. The oranges and reds in this lot are incredible.

          Click image for larger version  Name:	9.jpg Views:	0 Size:	302.1 KB ID:	1442759I use a couple of 2" thick boards (we use this stuff at the shop). The same can be accomplished with multiple sheets of MDF or a combination of other materials, just needs to be reasonably flat. Brown paper like they used to make grocery sacks from is used to dry out the veneer. You can purchase a roll of the the brown paper from Home Depot. Cut it to size to match your boards. Place a couple of sheets on bottom and then your first set of veneer (next pic). Cover that with a single sheet of paper and then place your next set of veneer on top of that.
          My "No-Name" CC Speaker
          Kerry's "Silverbacks"
          Ben's Synchaeta's for Mom
          The Archers
          Rick's "db" Desktop CBT Arrays
          The Gandalf's

          Comment


          • #81
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ID:	1442761Two pieces end to end. Cover with a single sheet of the brown paper and then repeat the process for the next set of veneer. I usually limit my number of veneer layers to three. Once you have finished the layers, make sure the top has two sheets of paper (just like the bottom did). That will prevent a lot of the moisture from getting into your flattening boards.

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ID:	1442762Clamp for a few hours and open it back up to inspect for moisture. If needed, replace the paper and clamp for additional time until they are dry.

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ID:	1442763 Here is a close up of one of the sidewall sets. There are a couple of splits about an inch left and right of the edges that will get worse if I don't soften and flatten this veneer. Can't even attempt to straighten the book match edges until this stuff is treated. Otherwise, the splits will grow. Once these were flattened, I added additional tape over the splits to prevent any glue from coming through and to help prevent any further expansion of the splits.

            Ok guys, that's about enough for tonight, I'll try to add more tomorrow.


            My "No-Name" CC Speaker
            Kerry's "Silverbacks"
            Ben's Synchaeta's for Mom
            The Archers
            Rick's "db" Desktop CBT Arrays
            The Gandalf's

            Comment


            • #82
              Good tips on prepping the veneer... and it looks really good.

              Comment


              • Kevin K.
                Kevin K. commented
                Editing a comment
                Thanks Ani! Hoping to find time to add some more tomorrow.

            • #83
              Originally posted by jtheisen521 View Post
              Those are beautiful, amazing work! Can we reveal the driver lineup now?🙂 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
              Dayton ES180TiA-8, SB Acoustics SB10PGC21-4, SB Acoustics SB21SDC-C000-4, and SB15SFCR-00.

              Comment


              • #84
                Originally posted by rickcraig View Post
                Dayton ES180TiA-8, SB Acoustics SB10PGC21-4, SB Acoustics SB21SDC-C000-4, and SB15SFCR-00.
                Hi Rick, I have a question on the passive radiator. Did you chose to use a PR just because of personal preference or did the box modelling suggest the PR would perform better than a standard port?

                Comment


                • LOUT
                  LOUT commented
                  Editing a comment
                  It looks like a port of the typical width/area to avoid chuffing would also be roughly 70-90cm long (depending on the box size and chosen tuning), so I'm guessing that's at least part of the reason.

              • #85
                Originally posted by a4eaudio View Post

                Hi Rick, I have a question on the passive radiator. Did you chose to use a PR just because of personal preference or did the box modelling suggest the PR would perform better than a standard port?
                A few different reasons. Jeff had used passive radiators in some of his more recent standmount designs and I thought it would be interesting to include one. I wanted a more compact cabinet but still have good bass extension. A few different woofers were considered but the ES-180 was determined to be the best fit. A rear port wasn't possible, mainly because of there being no place for it. A larger ported box would work but that went against my goal to keep the cabinet smaller.

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                • #86
                  Hi Rick, thanks for doing this tribute. Will you be, once complete, posting 3D files of some sort for CNC? I have a CNC at home and would appreciate it.

                  Comment


                  • #87
                    Originally posted by DeruDog View Post
                    Hi Rick, thanks for doing this tribute. Will you be, once complete, posting 3D files of some sort for CNC? I have a CNC at home and would appreciate it.
                    Do you mean for the standard rectangular cabinet?

                    Comment


                    • #88
                      Originally posted by rickcraig View Post

                      Do you mean for the standard rectangular cabinet?
                      My mistake. I was thinking about Kevin K's baffle.

                      Comment


                      • #89
                        Hi folks!

                        Have been building speakers for decades, but only recently got on the internet to discuss. Rick Craig and I met through Don Keele (I own CBT24s). We had been kicking other plans around for a bit when he told me of his plans for a Jeff Bagby tribute. I liked the idea and knew Rick did not care to do cabinetry, so I offered to build one for testing. I had already done some work for Audio Science Review and so have been posting a build progress thread there.

                        I can do some basic routing, but as recessing the midrange was a bit much for my woodworking skills, the nod goes to Kevin for a precut front baffle. The rest requires a little less than a 2x4 foot sheet of 3/4 inch MDF. If you are up to the doing your own front baffle, you will need a bit more MDF. Rick or I may eventually cross post the plans, but we are still working out some of the details. Until then, you can follow the action at: https://www.audiosciencereview.com/f...9/#post-430411

                        Take care,

                        Rick (aka rasykora or the other Rick)

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                        • #90
                          In-room measurements, no gating or mixed signal (Omnimic "sine all") taken a 1M distance with 1/12th octave smoothing. The 45 degree off-axis was taken on the opposite side of the 15/30 so you can see some of the room grunge in the measurement. The .5/1M curves were overlaid to investigate more of the room issues as well as possible nearfield use. The distortion test was taken at .5M distance, referenced to 96dB @1K or 90dB @1K and 1M distance (2nd and 3rd harmonics).

                          These were taken with the prototype. I have another speaker arriving next week from a kit builder. At that time I'll test the nearfield bass response and the impedance.
                          Attached Files

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