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  • Something very small and wacky

    Guys, I'm going a bit stir crazy working from home for the last month, but realised that it is the best time to 3d print as I can keep an eye on it whilst I'm in my study.

    So...... Bluetooth beer can mono speaker is my latest thoughts...but you guessed it, using a 3d printer and not an actual can. Last night I drew something up in AutoCAD and made the idea that the base is removable and to stick on some grills. Not sure how it will actually turn out but hey, 150g of plastic and some cheap parts whats the worst that could happen lol

    The inspiration was a local craft beer with some funky label, which the label actually peels off and durable enough to reuse.

    Parts to use

    driver
    https://www.parts-express.com/visato...4-ohm--292-655

    2 oval passive membranes

    Amp - PAM8403 miniature class D

    bT module - M28 Bluetooth receiver

    1s battery bMS charger - TP4056

    ​​​​​without trying I've managed to get 0.01cuft which seems small, but the same as allowed for in the quaran-teenie recently completed.

    The photo is the top half with the passive radiators just stuck in there with duct tape and i gave it a rough sand to get those straight edges out, which the lines are still visable but the bumps are gone. it will all be gone with the paint.

    I would love some help to get this actually battery operated this time as i have failed on many levels previously. Also if there is any suggestions to converting a stereo amp chip to mono i would be open. I have seen a video where a personal puts a resistor on the +/- input teminals of the amp.

    I'm also thinking of making Zeus's eyes light up as the "power on" LED and have a few other ideas. I know this isnt really what people on this forum would general post about but just chalk this up to the crazy Australian who misses his craft beers during the voluntary lockdown...




    ​​
    Attached Files

  • #2
    That's so cool. I'm never going to get a CNC machine, but I may put one of those 3D printers on my Christmas list this year... those things are just amazing. Being able to print precise, and tiny little pieces of plastic just to do transition pieces or whatever is very interesting.

    I mentioned using a can opener to take the top off of a real can, but I was thinking you'd put the driver in one end and the PR in another, didn't realize you would need to alter the container so much. Even the tab opener is there. Awesome!

    Is the bottom open to position the components I'm guessing? Curious, how long did that take to print out?

    Could you drill holes from the outside and rear-mount two tiny 3mm LED's positioned where his eyes are? Would the light pass through the label sufficiently do you think?

    Well, I was going to mention another amplifier that PE sells to kind of hack for parts, but I see that you're probably not going to be able to get it in Australia due to it only being allowed to be shipped ground in the US.

    I was thinking of this one: https://www.parts-express.com/pe3w-b...ifier--320-630

    I know it's low-power, but I think this project isn't designed for super high quality music reproduction. I have one, and hooked it to a Visaton BF37 on one channel... the output was loud enough... I could see the cone moving... but not high quality. Still, for a tiny little soda-can sized project, it may have been good enough. I included a few pics of the 'insides' to show how easily it could be hacked and adapted to nearly anything. The amp board is 2.5" by 1.5" (6.35 x 3.81 cm) approx.

    Click image for larger version

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    The battery is approx. 1" by 1.5" and seems to have a tiny charge interface board built into it under the yellow cello. Since it's a 3.7 volt cell, I believe you may be able to use a RCR123A or 18650 battery for a much longer run time, it would just take longer to charge.

    Just an idea for the future, maybe for USA-bound hackers.

    As far as using a stereo amp on a mono speaker, you could just use one side of the amp and leave the other unconnected. You would get a longer run time and the amp wouldn't mind I don't think.

    Bonus points if you can figure out how to get it to make that "Ppppsssstttt" can-opening sound upon start-up or Bluetooth linking.

    TomZ
    *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
    *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

    *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

    Comment


    • #3
      that is interesting......how cool would a can opening sound be for the sync.

      thats a cool little power supply\amp, would have been an idea. I bought 4 of these 18650's from a hardware store and they were for "solar lights" but still enough for this. If i can workout how to hook the 18650 to the chip and it actually charges ill be happy

      The print for the white body took 12 hours, which when my son got up i put it on this morning and it was ready around dinner, so fairly lack of involving on my behalf.

      I get fixated on things and ended up sitting at my desk last night with a can from the fridge and a ruler just CAD'ing it up as i went and thought it cannot be a can without the mouth piece and tab lol. I printed out 2 or the 3 grills, but had to change colour as the white seemed to fail a bit as in wasnt sticking and just clogging up the extruder. I'll put the base on tomorrow maybe and the other grill, but i think i want to change the base to have the micro usb sticking out of it (descretely) and i forgot about the SPST switch to turn it on, so might have to do some googling to see if there is any funky things i can do like twisting the base for example ..............actually that would make a pretty cool volume knob if i had a pot. ..... damn rabbit hole, i keep venturing down it
      Attached Files

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by tomzarbo View Post
        That's so cool. I'm never going to get a CNC machine, but I may put one of those 3D printers on my Christmas list this year... those things are just amazing. Being able to print precise, and tiny little pieces of plastic just to do transition pieces or whatever is very interesting.

        I mentioned using a can opener to take the top off of a real can, but I was thinking you'd put the driver in one end and the PR in another, didn't realize you would need to alter the container so much. Even the tab opener is there. Awesome!

        Is the bottom open to position the components I'm guessing? Curious, how long did that take to print out?

        Could you drill holes from the outside and rear-mount two tiny 3mm LED's positioned where his eyes are? Would the light pass through the label sufficiently do you think?

        Well, I was going to mention another amplifier that PE sells to kind of hack for parts, but I see that you're probably not going to be able to get it in Australia due to it only being allowed to be shipped ground in the US.

        I was thinking of this one: https://www.parts-express.com/pe3w-b...ifier--320-630

        I know it's low-power, but I think this project isn't designed for super high quality music reproduction. I have one, and hooked it to a Visaton BF37 on one channel... the output was loud enough... I could see the cone moving... but not high quality. Still, for a tiny little soda-can sized project, it may have been good enough. I included a few pics of the 'insides' to show how easily it could be hacked and adapted to nearly anything. The amp board is 2.5" by 1.5" (6.35 x 3.81 cm) approx.

        Click image for larger version  Name:	PE3W-BT1.JPG Views:	0 Size:	400.4 KB ID:	1437224 Click image for larger version  Name:	PE3W-BT2.JPG Views:	0 Size:	406.3 KB ID:	1437223
        The battery is approx. 1" by 1.5" and seems to have a tiny charge interface board built into it under the yellow cello. Since it's a 3.7 volt cell, I believe you may be able to use a RCR123A or 18650 battery for a much longer run time, it would just take longer to charge.

        Just an idea for the future, maybe for USA-bound hackers.

        As far as using a stereo amp on a mono speaker, you could just use one side of the amp and leave the other unconnected. You would get a longer run time and the amp wouldn't mind I don't think.

        Bonus points if you can figure out how to get it to make that "Ppppsssstttt" can-opening sound upon start-up or Bluetooth linking.

        TomZ
        I just ordered a little adafruit charging board which has the load ability to both charge and power the devices, which makes me wonder if the board i had previously was pure charging and nothing else.

        how long do you think a 550ma battery would last in a BT setup like this, lets say @ full volume.
        Last edited by 3rutu5; 04-16-2020, 03:31 AM.

        Comment


        • #5
          Find myself understanding the true mean of prototyping.....reprinting the main enclosure after attempting a screw in base and fiddling with the faces settings in AutoCAD to remove the low polys/straight edges around the can itself

          Comment


          • #6
            Need to print the base tomorrow and then prime/paint the body, the BF37 fits nicely in as do the passives....

            Probably get all the way to the end and it sounds like trash....at least it is small enough to throw directly into the bin if that's the case.....just kiddig
            Attached Files

            Comment


            • #7
              I did the wiring up to run off the single 18650 battery due to its size and used electrical tape to roughly fix it to a toilet roll and using a router template I had made for the other build used it to plug up the other end of the roll. Played it sliding the PVC tube in to see how ports play their part. Interesting little experiment for me. One thing I did notice is the power difference between left and right was night and day. Right was extremely loud and the left channel was extremely low. Could be the cheap boards, but not a concern for me as I'm using this in mono, just interesting as it may have been the problem I had with the testing last time.

              Obviously not going to be a stereo experience or one a crowd of people will sit around rocking out to, but still a bit of fun.

              Mark 2 of the enclosure went alright today with the screw thread base working well, just a bit tight, mental note for people who 3d print, using supports and flipping the print upside.down isnt a good option when you want it looking good. Going to make a third tomorrow which should be it with a different design recently CAD'ed, just lob it on in the morning and take it off at dinner, not much involvement required than hit print and wait 11-12 hours.
              Attached Files

              Comment


              • #8
                Getting close, 3/4trs wired up just need to work out how it all fits in as space is going to be at a premium....speaker and PR's will need to be glued in and I found some gorilla glue at my local I'll use instead of superglue, gives a bit more time to.set.

                Painted last night and I can honestly say it was a lot harder than painting wood for me. I'll wait another 12+ hours to let it fully dry and start trying to do the build.

                Ignore the red, I haven't screwed it all the way in as it is tight but it works really well

                Attached Bluetooth for scale
                Attached Files

                Comment


                • #9
                  Looks good, just the idea is too cool.

                  What did you paint the plastic with? Plastic seems to be a little tricky to paint in my limited experience... getting it to stick long-term anyway.

                  Are you still planning on using the beer can wrap? What are your plans to create holes for the speaker/PR areas? Inquiring minds want to know.

                  TomZ
                  *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
                  *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

                  *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    It was a bit of a first for me, I sanded from 120 grit to 400 and had a spray paint which has a primer in it, I did 3 of these basically with the first (white) being a bit too straight edged and I primed it then went back into CAD and redid it, printed the second and had issues with the top and the supports and now it looked and it was basically a paint trap..then the third I printed the top in two parts and super glued it together and just painted it cautiously. Gave it two coats of black and 2 clear and left it like that. As for the label, I'm wondering if I glue it on and poke small holes where the mesh is but hard to do as it could fall through the gaps or not glue and flap around.

                    I also designed a DC jack in it completely forgetting I wanted this to be USB charged, due to it being powered off 1*18650 battery, which was another reason for the 3 print....I have a new found respect for prototyping let say 😆

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      very tight inside, shorted the charging board, nice and smokey, just by rushing it to see if it was working. will need to redo but i can honestly say it is going to be quite the tetris game to get everything fitting in there without stopping the passives from moving etc.

                      might park this one for now and finish the TEBM35 rig as that is much easier to take over the finish line

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Was thinking it looked great with the added grills, but it looks even better after the paintjob.
                        My first 2way build

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Where i live at the moment we have had a windy cold morning (10deg c) which i know is nothing for people in the states but in tropical queensland it is chilly So armed with the loudspeaker database supplying the WINISD files i decided to model quite a few drivers in the 1-2" ranges to see what best suits this tiny size.

                          I think the Visaton's are best in this space and size, with the noticable handicap of being this the low 70's when it comes to sensitivity, which i confirmed by ear putting them up against the TEBM35's the other day in my garage. Althought they didnt get as loud, they sounded fuller and the TEBM's sounded a bit thin with more power and almost triple the volume, they also distorted horribly when pushed to the limits. Both units were running the TInysine 2x8w amp and have 12v's through the wall plug (comparision was using the Quarenteeeeny not the above).

                          I'm looking at two other options for this beer can, with a trial to be run on 3 different amps with the main factor being around that 5v power supply and having the BT onboard.

                          one of the option will be only having 1 of the passive membranes, which sould be fine as it is technically 2-2.5x the size of the driver's SD. And another i'm still in CAD trying to work it would but one of the amp's has a volume pot, so thinking how i can keep it fully sealed for the passive and be able to turn the top as a way to turn it on and use the volume.

                          the two green amps have both outputs around 5-6w per channel with a PSU between 5-6.5vs and the black one apparently has 2x50w and can operate at 5v's but i expect the 50w value would be for for the 24v's and that 5 would provide around 5w-ish, but hey they all have onboard bluetooth and similar output.

                          also being 6'3" means navigating in something with a 60mm diameter is borderline impossible, so thinking of printing the body in two halves, putting the driver and passive in then glueing together, then i can guarentee a complete seal.

                          I thought i would give an update as this isolation is making me continually think of ways to refine make these things into something i would really like. Wont be wining any sound off competetions but intended to give any mass produced bluetooth speaker of similar size a damn good bit of competition
                          Attached Files

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            If you need more space, beer cans comes in more than one size. Very cool project.
                            http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...khanspires-but
                            http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...pico-neo-build
                            http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...ensation-build

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              with 5V you have limited options for amps, i would look at this route. Use the MH-M18 with this amp

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                              then use this charger/buck booster board, you could then boost the voltage to 12v to open up options. which is why i showed that PAM8610 board above.
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                              since it doesnt have a BMS built in, get this BMS to protect the battery. one of these will work if just using one 18650 cell
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                              or coin style like this one
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                              In order to make the board work, you would need to remove the power pin on the back and remove the headphone jack. you would wire the BT audio out to where the headphone jack was and then wire the power to the board from the output on the buck booster board. since you want to use the top of the can for volume remove the pot from the board then mount it to where that is possible. either that or find a way to mount the board to the top of the can and leave the pot still soldered to the board. suggestion that may help you, apply some hot glue to cover up the power connection/audio connection ect so nothing gets shorted out.

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