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Replacement suggestions for old speaker cabinet (10" and 3")

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  • #76
    Wow that is a great looking vintage setup! Glad they worked out for you!

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    • #77
      That's a nice looking set of speakers there! It all goes together nicely.
      Glad you had success with it and kept it alive.

      TomZ
      *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
      *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

      *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

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      • #78
        If those had no stuffing when you opened 'em up, you should add some. Either pillow stuffing (polyfill) from Wal*mart, or fiberglass.

        As far as stiffening up the box goes, the 1st dowel I'd add I'd epoxy straight back from the front (center) to the rear (where it'll need to be screwed). You'll need to get this length "perfect" so the rear panel can still rest on its "ledge", but not too short so you have to draw down the rear panel - prob'ly within 1/32" - 1/16"

        The 2nd most critical would be side-to-side. Don't worry about how you'll get the dowel past the "lip" (I think you'll figure it out).

        If any of those old screws (holes) won't tighten up, just stick a toothpick or 2 in the hole 1st (flat ones work better usually).

        You can make the tweeter (FR) louder or quieter by making the resistor (on the tweeter XO) a couple ohms smaller, or larger.

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        • #79
          Stuffing and bracing will change the sound. If you like the way they sound now, I'd call it done.

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          • #80
            That looks great...like it was all meant to go together. I love warm rich wood. How do you find the resolution and clarity to be? I'm envisioning a smoking jacket, pipe, and a randy ascot, along with a 3 finger pour of a fine sour mash, and I don't drink or smoke anymore. Glenn.

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            • #81
              It's been a while but wanted to provide two updates: 1) added a 1" bronze bar (about $15/piece online) instead of wood to prop it up but give it a little pizzaz. 2) bought a minidsp mic and took a measurement.

              With the measurement I found that the bass was high and treble low (green) so I turned the front knob on bass down to -3 and treble up to +3 (orange). You can see the response graphs below. In all honesty I'm really happy with the end product but thought you guys might still be interested. Like I said before I'd like to try a measurement on my home theater receiver since it's ages newer.

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              • #82
                Very nice. Tone controls are not evil. ;-) That bump at 2.5k shows up just like in PE's response plot for the DC250. I'm guessing a lot of that goes away off axis? Maybe one of the TT crossover geniuses could suggest a notch filter to knock that down a bit. I really kike this project.

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                • #83
                  Hmmmmm...

                  that should look nicer.. what distance did you measure at? Was it on the tweeter axis or off? Can you take a measurement for me on axis with the woofer about a foot away?

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                  • pjackson
                    pjackson commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Measurement was about 2.5 feet away with the mic on the couch armrest pointing toward the speaker. I'm about to do another one with my Denon HT receiver.

                    For the next measurement where should the mic be exactly? I get a foot away from the woofer but how high?

                • #84
                  Originally posted by pjackson View Post
                  It's been a while but wanted to provide two updates: 1) added a 1" bronze bar (about $15/piece online) instead of wood to prop it up but give it a little pizzaz. 2) bought a minidsp mic and took a measurement.
                  That's a lot of low end - does the receiver have a loudness switch? Perhaps it was engaged...

                  Or it might be the room.....

                  The peak just above 2kHz is probably not due to a room mode however. It might be possible to knock it down with a notch filter, but it looks like there may be integration problems with the tweeter as there already seems to be a dip in the response at the x-over point.
                  Brian Steele
                  www.diysubwoofers.org

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                  • #85
                    Great looking system, nice job!

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                    • #86
                      Funny how that 2k peak looks JUST like the DC250 w/OUT your notch filter.
                      The values in your schematic (and apparently the parts on your board) DO make a notch at the offending freq.

                      Are you sure the (series) resistor & cap are making a good cnx. to each other AND are jumpered across that inductor?
                      If the coil is (successfully) "in circuit", but there's an "open" at any of the notch filter's connections (either end, or at the resistor/cap junction - so 3 places), then the notch is effectively not there...

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                      • #87
                        Here's the comparison of the Denon (orange) and the old Fisher (green). Denon was taken about a foot away, pointed at the tweeter whereas the Fisher was a couple feet away, pointed more perpendicular to the floor.

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                        • #88
                          The design distance was 8 feet iirc. Can you show me a measurement at 8’ both on tweeter axis and a few feet above it. Room modes will be present but I’m just purely curious. Like Chris said, double check the notch parts. A sim is not perfect but not generally too far off.

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                          • #89
                            Originally posted by pjackson View Post
                            Here's the comparison of the Denon (orange) and the old Fisher (green). Denon was taken about a foot away, pointed at the tweeter whereas the Fisher was a couple feet away, pointed more perpendicular to the floor.
                            So the dip you are getting at about 1.2k is the crossover frequency. That will change depending on measurement height, and distance to some extent. Take a measurement from your typical listening position and if you have a big dip at 1.2k, reverse the leads on your tweeter and measure again.


                            Measuring for the total system response at one foot won’t be accurate as the drivers can’t sum properly and will have phase issues causing nulls. Measure at at least 8 feet away once and see how that looks. I’d measure with the denon since you mentioned previously issues with the Fisher.

                            I’m guessing at 8 feet the 4K dip evens out some, and once the correct teeeter polarity is chosen for the listening height, the 1.2k dip will even out and the lump that looks like woofer breakup won’t look so bad.



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                            • #90
                              Here's the 8' measurement on the Denon. Blue is on axis. Brown is about 2' above.

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