Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

New guts for KLH Model 6

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • New guts for KLH Model 6

    Found a pair of old KLH model 6s, the ones that are completely sealed. No sound coming out of the tweeters and I was thinking possibly capacitors or bad tweeters. But, after thinking about it since I either have to cut out part of the back to replace the caps and or Tweeter, or I have to tear off the cloth and cut the woofer that I might as well just modernize the insides. However I'm not sure where to start. Looking for ideas on 10-inch woofer Tweeter and crossover combination. These will be powered by a McIntosh Mac 1700 with a empire 598 record player and some digital to analog input as well. Sound is a priority but budget also needs to be a consideration. I don't think I'd want to spend more than 200 per speaker. Can't wait to see your recommendations! Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

  • #2
    Doesn't the grill come out without tearing anything? Once that's off, you can take out the woofer and or tweeter easily, from the front.
    Francis

    Comment


    • #3
      This image shows little velcro squares that tell me the grill will pop off, leaving you access via the front. Nice cabs.

      Comment


      • #4
        If the woofers are still good, I'd just replace the tweeters if they're bad. Unless you just want to learn how to design speakers.
        Francis

        Comment


        • #5
          Modernizing the woofers may be challenging, being acoustic suspension. Finding the T/S specs for them will be difficult, if not impossible. You may end up having to model a number of tens in the box volume and go with whatever looks best.
          www.billfitzmaurice.com
          www.billfitzmaurice.info/forum

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by djg View Post
            This image shows little velcro squares that tell me the grill will pop off, leaving you access via the front. Nice cabs.
            That's either a newer model or the owner has done what I'm looking to do. The early models, like the ones I have are completely sealed with no access whatsoever. The drivers are also rear mounted on the baffle. it was identified as a mistake once many speakers started being returned for warranty repair LOL. That ended up in the design change to what I believe your picture shows. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by fpitas View Post
              If the woofers are still good, I'd just replace the tweeters if they're bad. Unless you just want to learn how to design speakers.
              Yeah. That was my first thought. I have to cut out the woofer, unless I want to saw through the back of the cabinet. I also thought maybe a good woofer, tweeter, crossover combo might be best. Tbh I'd rather cut out the baffle, build a new one and attach new woofer and tweeter with a new crossover. I guess I want them to look like old model 6, but work...maybe it's not worth the effort. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by billfitzmaurice View Post
                Modernizing the woofers may be challenging, being acoustic suspension. Finding the T/S specs for them will be difficult, if not impossible. You may end up having to model a number of tens in the box volume and go with whatever looks best.
                I think that's probably the idea... Match the woofer to the box volume, figure out a solution for a tweeter, and crossover that works with it. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

                Comment


                • #9
                  Replacing the woofer looks like a real pain. Found this page that shows that the woofer is actually epoxied to the back side of the baffle with supporting pieces of metal conduit also epoxied from driver frame to baffle. Cutting it out would be only option.
                  https://community.classicspeakerpage...driver-access/

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Here's a thread from an actual restoration of a pair.
                    https://audiokarma.org/forums/index..../#post-8384445

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Wow. That is a pain in the butt. Now I can see the wisdom of a new front baffle board.
                      Francis

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Were it me I'd check out some of the better 10" subwoofers first. I know my RSS390HF-4 15" sub drivers go up surprisingly high, perhaps the decent 10s go high enough to serve as a regular woofer.
                        Francis

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          This is what I did a few years ago. Just for ideas. I was able to use the original grill. Work on it from the front. I easily added ports, so your design doesn't need to remain sealed. If your cabs are in nice shape, I think it's worth the effort, against making new veneered finish wooden cabs.

                          http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...dard-econowave

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            If you want sound quality (today), a 10" 2-way isn't the way to go.
                            Also, those cabs LOOK like about 1.5cu.ft. (internally).
                            No (modern) 10"ers will get you bass in a (normal) box that small (vented, or eSPECIALly closed).
                            It's even small for a lot of 8"ers - which you'll want to vent to get down in the 30-40Hz range.
                            Wolf's got an 8" 2-way (using a 3" "mid-tweeter" - NOT a modern "dome") that might work in 1.5cf. That's what would sound best in there (new baffle, of course).

                            If the woofer's are OK (and you've got good bass), and if your tweeter's okay (w/just an old bad cap) - all you might need to do is bybass the old XO (and baffle-back cap) and make up a new one (I'd just follow the "Increase" portion of the schematic). All you'd need would be 2 caps and a resistor.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              1.3 cu ft per this table. But it also states 12" woofer, which would be a trick.

                              http://aphenos.net/electronics/speakers/klh/all_klh.htm

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X