Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

New guts for KLH Model 6

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #31
    Originally posted by tomzarbo View Post
    I have nothing to contribute to this thread, but I'm just amazed at the use of a woofer frame glued/epoxied to the actual baffle with no way to remove or work on it. I understand why it was done from the explanations cited here, but it just seems amazing to me.

    This is one of those super-loose suspended woofers that work well in sealed boxes?

    I guess that's one way to control the quality of the woofers!

    interesting!

    TomZ
    I agree, it was amazing when i realized they were COMPLETELY sealed and read about their history. Built to last forever and never meant to be serviced. Warranty repairs were done by cutting out the woofer, and then replacing the surround, i believe. I

    Comment


    • #32
      Originally posted by squib View Post
      If you want to tackle replacing the woofers, you might want to check out the Human Speakers PRO 031 Woofer. The drivers are among the few modern examples (of which I am aware) that model pretty well in classic acoustic suspension designs. According to the vendor's modeling, the 10" PRO 031 should hit an F3 of 38hz with a system Q of 0.7 in 1.3 cu ft. I do not have any personal experience with these drivers, but Human Speakers have popped up in several recent threads on acoustic suspension vs. sealed options. Note that a pair would take up your entire budget, so probably not the best option from that angle...

      I am assuming a robust inexpensive tweeter to cross below 1.6 khz would be the bigger challenge.

      Squib
      I have a pair of Genesis Physics 210 that I rebuilt a few years back using Human drivers. 8 inch - 2 way - 10 inch passive radiator. There is nothing wrong with them, if you want a mellow plays everything ok type of sound. They don't compare, at all, to modern drivers as to detail, clarity, and resolution. If you just want to have a restoration for the sake of nostalgia, then disregard my thoughts and call Huw. If you want a retro modern that will sound better in every way, and for less money, view it as you have a pair of great looking enclosures that you got for 20 bucks. Your 400 dollar budget will come under if you grab a pair of Wolfs Zingers, and figure out the volume/ porting. The SD 215 - 88 woofer is much better than the Human PRO, at least to my ears, in a ported setup. I have the RS225P's in rebuilt JBL lx44 boxes, and much much much prefer them over my Genesis 210. XRK has a transient perfect speaker using RS225-8, and a scan 10F fullrange that has gotten rave reviews on diyaudio. One of the guys here may be willing to help you with working up a crossover design if you went with play nice together drivers. Can your receiver handle a 4 ohm load? Check out the standard econowave thread also. Good luck. Glenn.

      Comment


      • #33
        Originally posted by Drummer View Post
        I have a pair of Genesis Physics 210 that I rebuilt a few years back using Human drivers. 8 inch - 2 way - 10 inch passive radiator. There is nothing wrong with them, if you want a mellow plays everything ok type of sound. They don't compare, at all, to modern drivers as to detail, clarity, and resolution. If you just want to have a restoration for the sake of nostalgia, then disregard my thoughts and call Huw. If you want a retro modern that will sound better in every way, and for less money, view it as you have a pair of great looking enclosures that you got for 20 bucks. Your 400 dollar budget will come under if you grab a pair of Wolfs Zingers, and figure out the volume/ porting. The SD 215 - 88 woofer is much better than the Human PRO, at least to my ears, in a ported setup. I have the RS225P's in rebuilt JBL lx44 boxes, and much much much prefer them over my Genesis 210. XRK has a transient perfect speaker using RS225-8, and a scan 10F fullrange that has gotten rave reviews on diyaudio. One of the guys here may be willing to help you with working up a crossover design if you went with play nice together drivers. Can your receiver handle a 4 ohm load? Check out the standard econowave thread also. Good luck. Glenn.
        More good info to think about Glenn. Thanks. Yes, the MAC1700 can handle 4 ohms. Per the manual: "40 watts RMS continuous per channel with both chan-
        nels operating simultaneously into 4 ohm or 8 ohm
        loads." Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

        Comment


        • #34
          I lost out on a vintage pair of cabs on craigslist for my Zinger derivative. They were about this size and volume. I ended up building my own 1 cu. ft. faux vintage cabs. Cost more, mostly due to the veneer. I'm sure Wolf will correct me if I'm wrong, his Zingers will work in 1 to 1.5 cu. ft.

          Edit: Born and raised in Columbus. my sister still lives in Westerville.

          Comment


          • #35
            This is a 10" 2 way kit available elsewhere, way out of your budget range. It is "based on the classic Dynaco A-25". The crossover is one capacitor and one resistor on the tweeter. Click image for larger version  Name:	a26 kit pair.jpg Views:	0 Size:	23.2 KB ID:	1442099

            Comment


            • #36
              Originally posted by bobgc3 View Post

              I agree, it was amazing when i realized they were COMPLETELY sealed and read about their history. Built to last forever and never meant to be serviced. Warranty repairs were done by cutting out the woofer, and then replacing the surround, i believe. I
              Actually, my "Quarktinuums" were built this way. Little 3" epoxied in from the back. No way in without a saw. Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0147.JPG
Views:	94
Size:	65.7 KB
ID:	1442101

              Comment


              • #37
                Looking at your pictures, you don't have the earliest version, and those grills will come off.
                The shadows(under magnification) indicate what is on top of what,

                If you can get a thin blade in next to the grill this is what you have.
                Put some masking tape around the front-to-inside edge of the long sides of the front.

                With a thin putty blade(or the zester that looks like a miniature hand held flat with the fingertips curled)
                or the thinnest spatula you have, pry from the middle of the long side.
                Then move to the ends(like popping a bike tire bead)

                I think you will find screwed-in drivers in there.

                Comment


                • #38
                  Originally posted by davidB View Post
                  Looking at your pictures, you don't have the earliest version, and those grills will come off.
                  The shadows(under magnification) indicate what is on top of what,

                  If you can get a thin blade in next to the grill this is what you have.
                  Put some masking tape around the front-to-inside edge of the long sides of the front.

                  With a thin putty blade(or the zester that looks like a miniature hand held flat with the fingertips curled)
                  or the thinnest spatula you have, pry from the middle of the long side.
                  Then move to the ends(like popping a bike tire bead)

                  I think you will find screwed-in drivers in there.
                  So you're saying "The shadows(under magnification) indicate what is on top of what" is your indication that these are not the older versions? Any other clues?

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    I believe I'm seeing the wrapping of the cloth around the edge of the masonite.
                    Looks just like a pair I have. Same version of the terminal plate too.

                    Just take a blade and see where you are.
                    If the blade goes in perpendicular to the face, it's removeable.
                    If the blade goes under the wood rim parallel to the face, it's not.

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      Like a few others have said, a 10 inch woofer and 1 inch tweeter aren't the best combination, not by modern standards anyway. If it were me, I'd gut the entire contents, make a new front baffle for an 8 inch woofer and a 1 inch tweeter and port it. If you absolutely like the idea of using a 10 inch woofer then I'd make it a three way system with woofer, midrange and tweeter.

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        Originally posted by bobgc3 View Post

                        That's an odd suggestion. I bought them as is for $20. Why would i want to sell them if i'm willing to go through the trouble of making them work, lol.
                        Depends how much you could get for them. Do you know how much you could get for them?

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          Originally posted by Drummer View Post

                          I have a pair of Genesis Physics 210 that I rebuilt a few years back using Human drivers. 8 inch - 2 way - 10 inch passive radiator. There is nothing wrong with them, if you want a mellow plays everything ok type of sound. They don't compare, at all, to modern drivers as to detail, clarity, and resolution.
                          Hey Glenn, your's and Johnny's previous comments brought Human Speakers to my attention quite recently. I've learned slowly that I prefer and retain two-ways and subs in sealed vs. ported alignments. I think the bass roll off is a big part off that preference. I chased the lowest F3 for any given driver or cabinet size in series of hacked together ported speakers. It's no surprise that most sounded okay at low to moderate volume and collapsed abruptly into complete disasters at high volumes with any content below their tuning. I am the type of dunce that has to learn the hard way.

                          Sealed or classic AS designs in my experience are more flexible in placement and the bass response can be tweaked predictably by adjusting their position relative to the front wall or other boundary reinforcement. That's not a global endorsement of sealed being "better", just better aligned with my personal preferences. I bought and kept several mid-90's Cambridge Soundworks speakers for many years and still have a couple of small "Ensemble" satellites that do a lot right when coupled with a decent sub. The mellow sound of the classic Cambridge MA speakers (AR, A/D/S, KLH, etc) isn't my idea of perfect, but it does have some of the key elements I am seeking. And there is a nostalgic appeal layered on top of that

                          Squib

                          Comment


                          • #43
                            Originally posted by AEIOU View Post
                            Like a few others have said, a 10 inch woofer and 1 inch tweeter aren't the best combination, not by modern standards anyway. If it were me, I'd gut the entire contents, make a new front baffle for an 8 inch woofer and a 1 inch tweeter and port it. If you absolutely like the idea of using a 10 inch woofer then I'd make it a three way system with woofer, midrange and tweeter.
                            Aren't the best for what? I should stop there, cause that's the thing. There is no best for everything, just endless options.

                            Comment


                            • AEIOU
                              AEIOU commented
                              Editing a comment
                              I have my opinion, you have yours. FINI

                          • #44
                            Originally posted by rpb View Post

                            Aren't the best for what? I should stop there, cause that's the thing. There is no best for everything, just endless options.
                            Without a waveguide on the tweeter, there will almost certainly be a mismatch of dispersion at the crossover point. One may or may not like the resulting sound, it's true.
                            Francis

                            Comment


                            • #45
                              Originally posted by fpitas View Post

                              Without a waveguide on the tweeter, there will almost certainly be a mismatch of dispersion at the crossover point. One may or may not like the resulting sound, it's true.
                              The sound of distortion from an over driven eight might not be a very pleasing sound either.

                              Do you see an off axis problem with these measurements?

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X