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Is Minwax Poly The Most Evil Substance In The World?

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  • #16
    Originally posted by AEIOU View Post

    Yes, let's dunk those misbehaving coils!

    Click image for larger version

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    Wait...is that a lake of Minwax Poly?
    Francis

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    • #17
      That went sideways...

      I roll my own coils ya know. Gotta bind them somehow.
      Wolf
      "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
      "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
      "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
      "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

      *InDIYana event website*

      Photobucket pages:
      http://photobucket.com/Wolf-Speakers_and_more

      My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
      http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

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      • #18
        Yeah I'm slightly offended by that pic.
        John H

        Synergy Horn, SLS-85, BMR-3L, Mini-TL, BR-2, Titan OB, B452, Udique, Vultus, Latus1, Seriatim, Aperivox,Pencil Tower

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        • #19
          You wouldn't be if she'd turned you into a newt!
          www.billfitzmaurice.com
          www.billfitzmaurice.info/forum

          Comment


          • OldBeginner
            OldBeginner commented
            Editing a comment
            Fortunately, you got better! :p

        • #20
          Originally posted by Wolf View Post
          I roll my own coils ya know. Gotta bind them somehow.
          Wolf
          Four or so zip ties aren't good enough? I have unwound several quality inductors and they weren't "dipped" in anything to bind them, just wrapped with good quality tape.
          Craig

          The lowest possible F3 box alignment is not always the best alignment.

          Designing and building speaker projects are like playing with adult Lego Blocks for me.

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          • #21
            Jantzens are heat-bonded. Solens are zipped and varnish-dipped, so are ERSE brand. PE coils are zipped and dipped as well.

            It's been said that the individual windings will move in response to signal and create noise or shift from original position. Either a heat-bonding/baking or varnish-binding method is highly recommended to prevent this less than optimal situation. Vance Dickason said he wound coils in college and dipped them in something starting with a 'G' when I showed him mine at MWAF a few years back. I just use polyurethane. The zipping of the coil is mainly to hold the structure together while the varnish dries. You could remove them after curing, but the polyurethane also holds the zip-ties pretty well too.

            I do normally see the solid-core coils with tape alone more often than not. I'm sure this has something to do with not dipping the steel core, but I've even dipped some upwound steel-cores and had no issues. I have also used undipped coils from distributors, but if I make them myself i make sure they are not coming apart.

            Being unhappy with some of the coils I've purchased in terms of binding, I've rezipped, removed loose ties, and even re-dipped said re-bound coils.

            Later,
            Wolf
            "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
            "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
            "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
            "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

            *InDIYana event website*

            Photobucket pages:
            http://photobucket.com/Wolf-Speakers_and_more

            My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
            http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

            Comment


            • #22
              Mr. Dickason probably was referring to Glyptal, a company name. All sorts of insulating coatings.

              Comment


              • #23
                Originally posted by jhollander View Post
                Yeah I'm slightly offended by that pic.
                Click image for larger version

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                • #24
                  This thread is deteriorating.

                  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWuDJVJH-ak

                  Comment


                  • #25
                    Originally posted by Wolf View Post
                    Jantzens are heat-bonded. Solens are zipped and varnish-dipped, so are ERSE brand. PE coils are zipped and dipped as well.

                    It's been said that the individual windings will move in response to signal and create noise or shift from original position. Either a heat-bonding/baking or varnish-binding method is highly recommended to prevent this less than optimal situation. Vance Dickason said he wound coils in college and dipped them in something starting with a 'G' when I showed him mine at MWAF a few years back. I just use polyurethane. The zipping of the coil is mainly to hold the structure together while the varnish dries. You could remove them after curing, but the polyurethane also holds the zip-ties pretty well too.

                    I do normally see the solid-core coils with tape alone more often than not. I'm sure this has something to do with not dipping the steel core, but I've even dipped some upwound steel-cores and had no issues. I have also used undipped coils from distributors, but if I make them myself i make sure they are not coming apart.

                    Being unhappy with some of the coils I've purchased in terms of binding, I've rezipped, removed loose ties, and even re-dipped said re-bound coils.

                    Later,
                    Wolf
                    I wound a few coils by hand, nothing very impressive, not so easy to do if you don't have a coil winding machine.

                    Click image for larger version

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                    • #26
                      Originally posted by jhollander View Post
                      Yeah I'm slightly offended by that pic.
                      Does that look like someone you know? LOL

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