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  • New project which is a intrepretation of a current design.

    Guys,

    Following on from the BSC question, i'm in the process of 3d printing and making my version of a Devialet Phantom, and when i say my version it is a poor mans version and only really similar by shape.

    Parts i have and using.

    1x Peerless 830986 3 inch full range. https://www.parts-express.com/peerle...ofer--264-1056
    2x
    3.5inch Peerless Passive radiators https://www.parts-express.com/peerle...ator--264-1060
    Dayton Audio LBB-3 battery board https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...otect--325-200

    The internal measurements of the enclosure will be just a smidgen over 0.08cuft and i'm hopeless trying to model these passive radiators (or any to be honest) as i also get that i need 6-10 PR's to model the same as a small port, which i'm chalking up to user error and not the program itself. I'f somebody models it and tells me what 2 PR's, that full range and volume actually tunes at i would love to know as it seems to have a dip around 100hz and flattens out around the F5-6 mark saying it will go down to 50-60hz. Personally i would prefer it a bit nicer, but hey i did a dry run in a box with a carboard baffle and i was happy with how it sounded. I'm going to try and re purpose the Iron core inductor as per the other post, with the intention of changing it to Jakes suggestion if it doesnt sound right, but this is purely driven by cost and me not having to buy anything further.

    As i'm only using a single driver and passives in lieu of their weird subwoofers, i'm thinking i know the answer to this already, but if you look at the video below you will see that the woofers have a plate which moves with the membranes itself. Also watching tear downs of this unit, there is a void and central hub/bolt that runs through the middle of the subwoofer, which moves the plate. So i'm wondering if i could replicate this movement using a passive radiator? i'm thinking no, without gluing something and having some form of support or mounting the passive back to front and fixing to the weight plate on the back.....This is purely for a w@nk factor (australian term) and not really critical, but as i'm only new to this field i thought i would ask the more experienced folk. Once again not needed i just want it

    https://youtu.be/0FC94Tgz2ho?t=183

    It will be powered by the LBB battery board and a no name bluetooth amp i purchased for my Cans projects, which sounds quite good in the test rig. I do have a spare tinysine 2*8 bluetooth class D amp as well, but quite happy to run with the 2*20 watts @ 12v 4ohm for the meantime as the knob doubles as the on switch.

    The wheels are in motion with this one and going to probably take about 40-50 hours of printing for the entire unit, it is going to be pretty small with it roughly being L200mm x W120mm x H160mm and still trying to work out finishes as well.

    I know this probably doesnt interest much being another bluetooth portable rig, but hopefully sparks some interest in 3d printing and small setups **** Generalised comment, really not sure what the masses are into
    Attached Files

  • #2
    I'm afraid you're running ISD properly...

    If I put your FR driver in 0.08cf and "freestyle" a port, I end up w/a tuning (that I like) in the high 70s. I need FIVE of the Peerless 3.5" PRs to achieve that tuning.
    (The problem w/them is that their Fs is lower than what you'd like for this project.)
    Using 4 tunes the box to the low 70s. 3 - the low 60s, and 2 - the mid 50s (yielding what looks like an EBS-6 alignment, as you said). Of course, adding weight lowers the tuning even further. :-(

    A pair of ND90 PRs gives a tuning of 81 (F3 near 80Hz - much better for you)?
    A pr. of DS90s tunes to 86 (F3 also near 80).
    A single ND105 PR tunes to 75 (F3 80).

    I can get a "nicer" tuning (my personal opinion) simply by using a 1"id port tube.
    4" long tunes to the mid 70s (F3 mid 60s - my choice).
    3" tunes to mid 80s (F3 in the low 70s).

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by Chris Roemer View Post
      I'm afraid you're running ISD properly...

      If I put your FR driver in 0.08cf and "freestyle" a port, I end up w/a tuning (that I like) in the high 70s. I need FIVE of the Peerless 3.5" PRs to achieve that tuning.
      (The problem w/them is that their Fs is lower than what you'd like for this project.)
      Using 4 tunes the box to the low 70s. 3 - the low 60s, and 2 - the mid 50s (yielding what looks like an EBS-6 alignment, as you said). Of course, adding weight lowers the tuning even further. :-(

      A pair of ND90 PRs gives a tuning of 81 (F3 near 80Hz - much better for you)?
      A pr. of DS90s tunes to 86 (F3 also near 80).
      A single ND105 PR tunes to 75 (F3 80).

      I can get a "nicer" tuning (my personal opinion) simply by using a 1"id port tube.
      4" long tunes to the mid 70s (F3 mid 60s - my choice).
      3" tunes to mid 80s (F3 in the low 70s).
      Wise words as usual Chris, I think if I wasn't trying to reuse these PR's and I'm gunning for a visually similar look, I would have gone with a port, or even tried the DA's PR's.

      I agree with the very low FS for these PR's on paper are making them appear very unusable. I remember noticing the weights made it worse and having a larger enclosure did as well, with the 0.08cuft being the best of a bad bunch.

      Comment


      • #4
        Going along quite nicely, just need to think about a few things,

        * Where to put the volume pot
        * Mesh speaker covers
        * Finish/colour scheme etc

        This time I have some room for.the electronics, batteries etc, where my orange build using these PR's was so tight I could fit anything in there.

        Has anyone used the DA LBB battery board before? I have a few wires with JST ends and wondering if I can use them with some light bulbs for the various battery /charging indicators. I'm not sure if there is anything that continues to drain power from the battery once the amp is turned off.either.

        I have another question, if a board has a small LED on it can I solder wires to each pad and use another.bulb without damaging anything? My amp has a pot.to.turm on the power and volume (similar to a DTA-2 board) and the BT and power lights are on the board and I want them on the outside of the case.
        Attached Files

        Comment


        • #5
          LEDs might be interchangeable. I say MIGHT, because usually differing colors have different Vfd or Voltage forward drop, or current limitations. You'd have to know the datasheet for the specific application and LED to know if they will interchange. That said, if they are Red, they usually are able to handle more current, and the Blue ones are more cantankerous. I would keep the LED's from being piercing in output using a resistor and/or pot wired like a rheostat and adjust on the fly. This can usually keep them happy. I would start with about 150 ohms on a 5VDC supply, just for a ballpark.

          Later,
          Wolf
          "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
          "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
          "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
          "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

          *InDIYana event website*

          Photobucket pages:
          http://photobucket.com/Wolf-Speakers_and_more

          My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
          http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Chris Roemer View Post
            I'm afraid you're running ISD properly...

            If I put your FR driver in 0.08cf and "freestyle" a port, I end up w/a tuning (that I like) in the high 70s. I need FIVE of the Peerless 3.5" PRs to achieve that tuning.
            (The problem w/them is that their Fs is lower than what you'd like for this project.)
            Using 4 tunes the box to the low 70s. 3 - the low 60s, and 2 - the mid 50s (yielding what looks like an EBS-6 alignment, as you said). Of course, adding weight lowers the tuning even further. :-(

            A pair of ND90 PRs gives a tuning of 81 (F3 near 80Hz - much better for you)?
            A pr. of DS90s tunes to 86 (F3 also near 80).
            A single ND105 PR tunes to 75 (F3 80).

            I can get a "nicer" tuning (my personal opinion) simply by using a 1"id port tube.
            4" long tunes to the mid 70s (F3 mid 60s - my choice).
            3" tunes to mid 80s (F3 in the low 70s).
            In Winisd can you add the details from a BSC to see how that affects the graph? I've noticed there are a few different filters etc that can be added, but which one and what valves always had confused me...I remember looking at the Linkwitz etc

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Wolf View Post
              LEDs might be interchangeable. I say MIGHT, because usually differing colors have different Vfd or Voltage forward drop, or current limitations. You'd have to know the datasheet for the specific application and LED to know if they will interchange. That said, if they are Red, they usually are able to handle more current, and the Blue ones are more cantankerous. I would keep the LED's from being piercing in output using a resistor and/or pot wired like a rheostat and adjust on the fly. This can usually keep them happy. I would start with about 150 ohms on a 5VDC supply, just for a ballpark.

              Later,
              Wolf
              Great thanks Wolf. I've got a few small resistors I can try and a heap of bulbs, once the printing has finished I'll start experimenting

              Comment


              • #8
                Baffle-step "loss" can (very generally) be thought of as a -6dB loss as the freq. drops from near 800-1000Hz down toward 200-100 (depending) on a "free-standing" speaker (so, NOT against a wall, floor, or tabletop). Not aware of a way to model THAT in WinISD.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Bit disappointed after two 20 hour prints, one decided to cut a nice slot midway around 2/3rds of the body, so bog bog bog.... otherwise known as filler
                  Attached Files

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    But still pretty happy with how this is turning out. Using bluetack to hold the passive in place for the photo.final side is being printed, then a base and finally I have a sheet of grill for a car which I'm looking to push into a dome for the sides and front

                    like the cans, this will be a staged assembly, fill, sand and paint, glue in speaker and fill, sand and final paint again then use
                    Attached Files

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Looks pretty good. Hopefully the sound is decent.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Dukk View Post
                        Looks pretty good. Hopefully the sound is decent.
                        Yep, that's the million dollar question.

                        Sounded pretty good with a flappy cardboard baffle and slightly bigger box, so hopefully it's similar.

                        Been burning though the roll of filament, almost used a roll on this one

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Managed to fill the big old crack and sand it pretty smooth, so tomorrow i'll print the grills and start priming the body. The design is starting to look a little deathstar-y, but hey i was never going to replicate a 3k bluetooth speaker this was just something that inspired me to try something different.

                          for you who havent seen a phantom before, attached is what they look like.
                          Attached Files

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            It's going to not much longer than 200mm long and about 160mm high, so.not huge by any chance. Trying to work out a colour scheme that looks a bit funky and cyber inspired, like the robot from.oblivion almost
                            Attached Files

                            Comment

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