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  • Criton 2TD Build Thread

    Kit comes in a couple of days and I'll have some questions along the way that I can hopefully get answered here. I have some Zinsser BIN shellac based primer that I intend to use, will I still need to seal the edges with the wood glue mixture or will the shellac take care of that?

    I'm hoping for a satin finish.. I have some leftover paint from another project that I would like to use, but it's matte. If I put on satin polyureyhane will that work or should I really just go buy a satin paint as well? Thanks! I'll post pictures along the way. Thanks in advance.

  • #2
    I just primed my PEDS 2.1 based cabs with 2 coats of BIN123 Plus water based primer. Rounded over raw MDF edges. Still drying. Very thick, quick drying. I'm not planning to do any more priming at this point. I'm using Rustoleum rattlecan primer paint product that covers very well IME. Follow my thread to see how it goes.

    I've used BIN shellac based white primer in the past to seal MDF cut edges. I think it worked fine. I would think a layer of glue would interfere with the shellac product soaking in to the MDF. I've never used glue as a sealer.

    The thread on cab painting had a post on painting with instructions and a picture of a beautiful painted cab.

    Page 2

    http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...-understanding

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    • #3
      Best tasting glue.. good one. His box looks very nice. I intend to use a spray gun. I used it to paint my screen wall and was really impressed with how smooth I could get it.. many light coats.. and lots of joint compound.

      Can I use joint compound for the seams? Is it hard enough? Walls seem to be a bit soft.

      I'm wanting it to look similar to my son's C Notes, I just want it to have a slight shimmer and look a little more professional, for a lack of a better word. When I painted his I just sealed the edges with glue/water and rolled on a couple coats of the paint. No primer or poly. You can definitely see the seams though.

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      • #4
        I used some inexpensive epoxy repair paste on the PEDS cabs. It was easy to work with. Results are pending. Joint compound? I dunno about that.

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        • #5
          Dude, you are going to LOVE the Criton 2TDs!
          I built a set of the Criton 1TDs for a friend and was blown away by the smoothness, imaging, detail and bass extension.
          Great kit!

          I think I hear a difference - wow, it's amazing!" Ethan Winer: audio myths
          "As God is my witness I'll never be without a good pair of speakers!" Scarlett O'Hara

          High value, high quality RS150/TB28-537SH bookshelf - TARGAS NLA!
          SB13/Vifa BC25SC06 MTM DCR Galeons-SB13-MTM
          My Voxel min sub Yet-another-Voxel-build

          Tangband W6-sub

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          • #6
            Did you do the regular crossovers or the upgraded? I see they recently added an upgrade kit for the nicer tweeter, I'm wondering if they will do that for the 2TD as well. I'm pretty excited about the kit, but I'm going to try and be patient for a change and do a good job on the finish.

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            • #7
              I used the normal crossover for my build, since the customer was on a budget.
              Shortly after, I compared the sound quality of Clarity CSA caps with the Dayton Poly caps and heard a big improvement, so
              I bought some replacement caps for her crossover. IDK about the foil inductors though. Not convinced they are better than
              generic air core coils.

              I think I hear a difference - wow, it's amazing!" Ethan Winer: audio myths
              "As God is my witness I'll never be without a good pair of speakers!" Scarlett O'Hara

              High value, high quality RS150/TB28-537SH bookshelf - TARGAS NLA!
              SB13/Vifa BC25SC06 MTM DCR Galeons-SB13-MTM
              My Voxel min sub Yet-another-Voxel-build

              Tangband W6-sub

              Comment


              • #8
                Interesting, I came close to adding the crossover upgrade, but didn't want to spend the $350 if they were going to come out with a tweeter upgrade later. I should just ask them if they're going to do it. They were very responsive to my questions. I may try upgrading the caps later when I get the itch again.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by AudioSQ View Post
                  Interesting, I came close to adding the crossover upgrade, but didn't want to spend the $350 if they were going to come out with a tweeter upgrade later. I should just ask them if they're going to do it. They were very responsive to my questions. I may try upgrading the caps later when I get the itch again.
                  I agree about both! They are really great people.

                  I think I hear a difference - wow, it's amazing!" Ethan Winer: audio myths
                  "As God is my witness I'll never be without a good pair of speakers!" Scarlett O'Hara

                  High value, high quality RS150/TB28-537SH bookshelf - TARGAS NLA!
                  SB13/Vifa BC25SC06 MTM DCR Galeons-SB13-MTM
                  My Voxel min sub Yet-another-Voxel-build

                  Tangband W6-sub

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by AudioSQ View Post
                    Can I use joint compound for the seams? Is it hard enough?
                    I don't think joint compound is going to be strong enough. Unfortunately polyester fillers get a bad name because folks immediately associate it to Bondo. If you get a better product like Everlast Rage Gold it is a different world entirely. Longer working life with the instructed amount of hardener, sands easy and doesn't shrink.

                    Depending on how far you want to go with it I have used a very small chamfer on the edges of butt joints to actually give some surface for the filler to adhere to and had great results.

                    I use the same method for solid stock baffles and veneered cabinets. It really helps hide the seams.

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                    • #11
                      Kit came in this afternoon, got started!

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                      • #12
                        Awesome!

                        I think I hear a difference - wow, it's amazing!" Ethan Winer: audio myths
                        "As God is my witness I'll never be without a good pair of speakers!" Scarlett O'Hara

                        High value, high quality RS150/TB28-537SH bookshelf - TARGAS NLA!
                        SB13/Vifa BC25SC06 MTM DCR Galeons-SB13-MTM
                        My Voxel min sub Yet-another-Voxel-build

                        Tangband W6-sub

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Can I spray the BIN shellac with a spray gun or is it better to use a roller?

                          Comment


                          • djg
                            djg commented
                            Editing a comment
                            There's shellac and shellac based primer. Both dry very fast. The primer is pretty thick in the can, shellac seems to have a good spray consistency.

                        • #14
                          Joint compound can work fine as long as you let it dry completely as it will shrink as it dries. I prefer to make some filler with wood glue and MDF sawdust.

                          I have not tried the BIN (or similar) stuff as the product I found locally was a little pricey IMO so I stick to the glue/water method and it has worked ok for me.

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                          • #15
                            Originally posted by Dukk View Post
                            Joint compound can work fine as long as you let it dry completely as it will shrink as it dries. I prefer to make some filler with wood glue and MDF sawdust.

                            I have not tried the BIN (or similar) stuff as the product I found locally was a little pricey IMO so I stick to the glue/water method and it has worked ok for me.
                            The issue with joint compound is that it is water based. If you live in an area where there the humidity varies there is the potential for it to both expand and contract which will leave the seams visable.

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