Criton 2TD Build Thread

[AudioSQ]

I did bondo on one box and wood sawdust mixture on the other. The bondo was a nightmare to work with. It just dried too fast for me, even when I tried smaller amounts of the hardener. I generally work on the slow side. It looks like a hot mess, but hopefully comes out ok after I sand it.

The mixture was much easier to work with, I guess I'll see which works better after sanding.

[Dukk]

The issue with joint compound is that it is water based. If you live in an area where there the humidity varies there is the potential for it to both expand and contract which will leave the seams visable.

I live near Vancouver, BC which is a fairly humid area - nothing like the southeastern US gets though! Fortunately, I have not had this issue but, if I use it, I generally only use it to fill brad holes which are tiny Any substantial gap should be filled with something more stable for sure.

[AudioSQ]

How fine of a grit do y'all usually sand before primer? Thanks!

[davidroberts]

220 is the what I would suggest. Anything else is going to be difficult to hide sanding marks with a satin or gloss finish.

I finally have all the components for my Apollo MTM so hopefully I will be at that point this weekend and post some pictures.

[AudioSQ]

The Apollos look nice. I've always wanted to try that anarchy woofer. Any benefit of going up to 320 or not really necessary before primer?

[donradick]

The Apollos look nice. I've always wanted to try that anarchy woofer. Any benefit of going up to 320 or not really necessary before primer?

I'm not a finish expert, but I think 220 is fine before primer. Put on 1 or 2 coats of primer and sand with 320. Sand the finish coat(s) with 320, 400 or higher as you wish.

[davidroberts]

The Apollos look nice. I've always wanted to try that anarchy woofer. Any benefit of going up to 320 or not really necessary before primer?

I have used the Anarchy woofer in a few different configurations, including 4 of them in a ported enclosure in my truck. This will be my first full range design with them so I am a little excited about it.

Personally I dont think so. The only time I go higher than 220 is when I am wet sanding something. The 220 leaves enough grit for the primer to really stick to. Like Don said after you start applying the finish coats then it is time for the high grit.

I havent completed a speaker in a while but the last couple of pieces I built for the wife even with stain I only went to 220 and then cleared with satin or semi-gloss lacquer with now sanding in between. It is amazing how forgiving the satin lacquer is.

[AudioSQ]

Got the primer and first coat on today. Despite my efforts I can still see the seams. Oh well, I tried. So far pretty happy with results, getting close!

[trevordj]

Got the primer and first coat on today. Despite my efforts I can still see the seams. Oh well, I tried. So far pretty happy with results, getting close!

Everything looks good! Did you spray the finish as you wanted to? I saw the primer you are using, but which paint?

Hiding seams takes a LONG time so don’t worry that you can still see them. I have recently started using miters so I hope that is easier (haven’t painted any miters yet).

Trevor

[AudioSQ]

Benjamin Moore Aura, color Artic Seal. I am spraying it on in light coats with a gun. First coat came out nice and smooth. The seams aren't too bad.. Time to get back as it!

[AudioSQ]

Well the second coat did a lot of running and the can clearly says not to thin with water... oops. I did try two coats after that without the paint thinned, but it does have texture to it. I think because it's a thick paint. I had hoped it would level itself out some, but I believe it's drying too fast with the thin coats. I could sand it out in the last coat maybe? It's just light orange peel, but when I've sanded between coats it's looked a little chalky. I'm worried I might make the last coat worse sanding it then if I just left it alone.