Red Cedar for Woofer/Speaker Cabinets? . . .

[Steve Lee]

Guys,

I have a pile of 1" X 12" x 10 foot long red cedar boards here in my shop I have had stacked for about 8 years and am thinking of using them for building some cabinets to house either single 12" woofers or dual 10" woofers for listening to music. Wood looks like this --> https://www.lowes.com/pd/Common-1-in...ard/1000465423

The MT section may be included in the cabinet but more likely sit on top as a separate unit and crossed-over appropriately such that the MT unit could be used later as stand-alone bookshelf speakers.

The Woofer cabinet would be box jointed --> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Box_joint

Internal bracing as needed, lined, etc and ported.

I'm thinking this material will yield a warm less resonant sound from the frequencies below the Fc of around 300 Hz and down to around 30 ~ 40 Hz.

Do any of you have any experience using softwoods like this?

This will be used in a conditioned space and will allow me to use up this material instead of stepping all over it.


Thanks!

[fpitas]

If you're getting resonant sounds from your cabs, no matter what they're made of, you need to rethink your construction methods. But red cedar is nice wood.

[Steve Lee]

Bracing and lining are a part of the plan - I agree with you.

[tvrgeek]

Prototype.

[fpitas]

Not sure if you've seen this thread. Some experiences dealing with actual wood used for cabinets: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...d-speaker-cabs

[Steve Lee]

Yes, I followed it and understand it. These cabinets are for sound production for enjoyment in my shop and experimentation, not for show.

[billfitzmaurice]

I'm thinking this material will yield a warm less resonant sound from the frequencies below the Fc of around 300 Hz and down to around 30 ~ 40 Hz.

It will, if used as a guitar top. If it does so as a speaker then the construction is flawed. The enclosure should make no contribution to the sound.

[Kornbread]

Don't tell me no one else has rapped their knuckles on different species of 1x or sheet stock of manufactured lumber.

[fpitas]

Don't tell me no one else has rapped their knuckles on different species of 1x or sheet stock of manufactured lumber.

Sure, and as Bill alluded to, they all have their own signature sound. The sound of an instrument is determined by that, among other things. But a properly designed speaker enclosure minimizes or eliminates that sound. Why on Earth would you want a speaker with resonances?

[Kornbread]

Sure, and as Bill alluded to, they all have their own signature sound. The sound of an instrument is determined by that, among other things. But a properly designed speaker enclosure minimizes or eliminates that sound. Why on Earth would you want a speaker with resonances?

So when you /reasonably/ brace an enclosure, do all the different species/types of wood sound exactly the same when rapped with the knuckles?

[fpitas]

So when you /reasonably/ brace an enclosure, do all the different species/types of wood sound exactly the same when rapped with the knuckles?

Yes, if you do it right. I usually brace until the knuckle rap simply hurts my knuckles, and the sound is pretty dull. It would be silly to pay for expensive drivers and craft a nice crossover, only to have the cabinet "helping" by making its own sounds.

[Kornbread]

Guess I've never built an enclosure right then because I've noticed a difference in the sound the rap makes between different types of wood/manufactured lumber.

[billfitzmaurice]

Maybe not exactly the same, hard wood would have a higher pitch than softwood, but there still should be no audible panel resonance. Since softwood tends to be not as stiff as hardwood it may require more bracing than hardwood. Totally eliminating cabinet sourced coloration is what's led some to build enclosures from very dense materials, like concrete, but for the most part panel to panel bracing is adequate. But even with extensive bracing you wouldn't want to build an enclosure from 1/4 inch balsa.

[fpitas]

Guess I've never built an enclosure right then because I've noticed a difference in the sound the rap makes between different types of wood/manufactured lumber.

OK. Besides side-to-side braces, I often need some triangulation to corners. Attaching the triangulated pieces with a flexible adhesive (I use PL Premium) helps, too.

[billfitzmaurice]

Guess I've never built an enclosure right then because I've noticed a difference in the sound the rap makes between different types of wood/manufactured lumber.

The difference in the sound probably isn't for the reason you might think. A harder material reflects the sound made outward, a softer material reflects less and absorbs more. What happens with different cabinet materials also happens in a greatly exaggerated fashion if you hit a rock with a hammer versus hitting a sponge with a hammer.

[fpitas]

Back to the OP's question (sort of), the main challenge with real wood is maintaining cabinet integrity during the natural expansion and contraction with changes in temperature and humidity. I guess if you want the "woody" sound you can minimize bracing.

[Kornbread]

billfitzmaurice now you're cooking with gas. Density, softness, whatever it is not only makes a difference in the sound it reflects, it also makes a difference in the sound it transmits. I have mirrored the thoughts of some others about a thinner, or easier on the back enclosure made from less dense and possibly a layered construction aimed at not only reducing panel resonances but sound transmission through and reflections off the panels themselves.
Back to the OP issue, Ceteris Paribus, I do in fact feel that the wood, or in a more broad consideration, the composition of the enclosure shell, can make a difference in the overall sound of the speaker not only by resonances created through panel vibration but also from sound transmission through and reflections off the various densities of the enclosure shell itself.
And I love the way a finished piece of Cedar looks and smells. Do it.

YMMV

[Steve Lee]

You and I are on the same page.