Originally posted by tvrgeek
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3d Printed / Poured Concrete enclosure concept
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Originally posted by lunchmoney View Post
The only thing I don't like about sand is that it wouldn't actually tie the two walls together....
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Originally posted by lunchmoney View Post
Yes, tamped-down sand sounds good to me.... water would spook me, as I'm not sure if the cured resin would react with the water after years of just sitting there.
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Originally posted by lunchmoney View Post
Thanks Tom. Do you think the straight mortar would pour ok?
Not unless you really went thin with the mix, then it would be weak and take forever to dry. I'm stumped.
TomZ
Zarbo Audio Projects Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCEZ...aFQSTl6NdOwgxQ * 320-641 Amp Review Youtube: https://youtu.be/ugjfcI5p6m0 *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
*Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF
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I vote for the sand with a little extra bracing and vibrated by some means to settle it in well. Measure, tell us what you find and then do the concrete if you're not happy with it and measure again! My only thoughts about the concrete would be ringing due to discussion with John Kreskovsky about his experiment with a concrete baffle. But the way you are planning to use it I suspect that would be mitigated by contact to the enclosure ... that said, he effectively dealt with the ringing with vinyl matting and the cracking he experienced I imagine would not be an issue due to the printed enclosure wrap. As long as you are patient and it's placed in a warm area I think the concrete would dry in a reasonable amount of time.
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Have you seen this guys concrete boombox? Might give some ideas for concrete choice etc
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=a43LXqRwQC8&t=462s
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Originally posted by tvrgeek View PostTom, Mortar CURES. It then will dry. It will cure under water. Correct, the wetter the mix, the weaker it is. One could easily vibrate the mix in dry and add water. That will get around the thickness question.
TomZZarbo Audio Projects Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCEZ...aFQSTl6NdOwgxQ * 320-641 Amp Review Youtube: https://youtu.be/ugjfcI5p6m0 *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
*Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF
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Originally posted by augerpro View Post
Exactly the benefit!
Well it's easy enough to add some connecting bosses between the walls to make it solid, in which case the sand seems ok.Form does not follow function
Form is simultaneous to function
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Originally posted by tvrgeek View Post
Now I can't see the time and expense of printing a cabinet I could make from MDF a few bucks and do quicker.
Yes it would be less than $20 of mdf, sure, but I don't care about that. If I were concerned about a few bucks I wouldn't be making speakers.
No port to mount, no screw holes to drill, no driver recesses to cut.
And if it's not right, adjust the cad and hit print again.Form does not follow function
Form is simultaneous to function
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I started a build thread here in the Project Gallery...
http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...led-enclosuresForm does not follow function
Form is simultaneous to function
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Originally posted by lunchmoney View Post
Where is all the supposed expense and time you speak ok? $20 worth of resin per cabinet, hit print and walk away. Then minimal supports to clean up, leave it in sunlight to post-cure, and it's done.
Yes it would be less than $20 of mdf, sure, but I don't care about that. If I were concerned about a few bucks I wouldn't be making speakers.
No port to mount, no screw holes to drill, no driver recesses to cut.
And if it's not right, adjust the cad and hit print again.
since i bought my printers my woodworking has really reduced, havent had the need with being in CAD all the time
Cant wait to see your concrete pour on your other thread, they are looking good.
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Originally posted by 3rutu5 View Post
and not to mention you could halve that easy using PLA, but.....you are using resin which was the point
since i bought my printers my woodworking has really reduced, havent had the need with being in CAD all the time
Cant wait to see your concrete pour on your other thread, they are looking good.
I'm actually not that crazy about the idea of using PLA for speakers.... it tends to have a slightly pourous nature, while resin is dead solid.
One such example of the "porous problem" for PLA (and FDM prints generally) is that they're not allowed for reusable medical devices that would require sterilizing or autoclaving. Blood or other liquids can soak into the pourous FDM material, and therefore can't be cleaned well.
How much of this is an issue for speakers? Not sure, but fundamentally it seems like a more solid material is the better move.... big prints are much tougher with resin though, requiring big, expensive resin printers, and higher cost of materials. Easier said than done, in other words.Form does not follow function
Form is simultaneous to function
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