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Enclosure thickness for the Classix 2.5

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  • Enclosure thickness for the Classix 2.5

    Hello Techtalk

    I've just finished building the Overnight Sensations - what a surprise. They sound fantastic!

    I'm about to build the Classix 2.5 for my main system. As i would like to keep the cost down, and build them in plywood (I like the look of the OS, see photo), I want to know if it's an absolute no-go to build them in 1/2 inch plywood, and brace them a bit more. I've read arguments for both sides (THICK mdf vs thin-walled heavy braced plywood).

    What do you think?

    Jens


  • #2
    Looks nice. Next spring I'm making three middling size MTMs for my home theater from 1/2" ply I think. I think it's fine, just keep the volume and baffle size the same as the 3/4" original.

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    • #3
      Thank you!

      And good thing you mentioned the baffle size. I think i would have overlooked that.
      Great, i thought that too - The plywood also sounds alot stiffer than the MDF I usually use. (tapping on it)

      I'll make them a bit lower too (2,3 inch) - so it fits the width of the handy-panels i normally use. (I only have a circularsaw, and a DIY saw guide. So longer cuts is a problem.)

      Looking so much forward to hearing them. They seem to be the DIY speaker I've been looking for in 10 years. I've been searching for a forgiving speaker since i bought my first speaker.

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      • #4
        These are on my 'to build' list; we love our Classix II and the extra output of the 2.5s will be something to look forward to. Judging by Paul's write up, the 2.5s should also have a better mid-range than the IIs.

        I've always used MDF as the quality of most ply here (Oz) is iffy, but I'd like to use it as it already has a nice grain. I tried using it on one build but found it too hard to round over the edges.

        Good luck with your project!

        Geoff

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        • #5
          Yea, extra care is needed around the edges. I sanded the top right corner of the OS too much, so the next layer of ply is visible. I only tilted the sander for a second.

          Thank you! - I'll post the pictures when finished. (If worthy ;) )

          Jens

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          • #6
            I've not used 1/2" material on any speaker, yet.
            My min. is 5/8" stuff, and that only on the smallest of boxes, like 0.1cf (3L) and smaller. MIGHT try it on 0.15cf, but not much reason to do so (for me).
            If you like the look of ply, you could always lam. 1/8" hardboard to the inside - else you'll have to dowel (brace) the heck out of it, I'd think.

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            • #7
              I just finished the Classix 2.5. I would not build them with anything less than 3/4 inch especially on the front baffle. I actually updated the dimensions and did a 1.5inch front baffle. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

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              • #8
                If you're using 1/2" ply, you should double up the baffle. Rebating the woofers in 1/2" ply would leave a pretty thin mounting surface. There is a recent thread on light cabinet building. Worth a search.

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                • #9
                  For the sake of lightness, it could be done. Make sure to use a liberal amount of bracing. Knock on the cabinet walls frequently as you add braces until the knocking goes from "tunk tunk" to "tick tick."
                  Isn't it about time we started answering rhetorical questions?

                  Paul Carmody's DIY Audio Projects
                  Twitter: @undefinition1

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                  • #10
                    Hi all!

                    Thank you so much for your answers. Great build Johnny!

                    - Keep the same baffle size.
                    - Go ahead with the thin plywood, add braces till it goes tick tick.
                    - Make a double front baffle. Good point about the mounting surface.

                    And Paul Carmody : Thank you so much for these designs. The Overnight Sensations are so cool - can't wait to finish the Classix 2.5!

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                    • #11
                      Jens, The thing you will find with these is that in order to use 1/2" and get a dead cabinet, you will need a lot of extra bracing. Its a trade-off. I used two window panes and two straight braces to get the 3/4 material to pass the knock test. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

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                      • #12
                        I'm thinking about cheap broom-sticks, cut to lenght. Add as many as needed in both directions.

                        The main reason for using the thinner plywood is the price and size of the panels. If i want better wood, it's double the price, and i need to borrow a trailer for the transport.

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                        • #13
                          Not to muddy up the works, but you could glue two 1/2 layers of plywood together, and you'd have a really beefy box.
                          Isn't it about time we started answering rhetorical questions?

                          Paul Carmody's DIY Audio Projects
                          Twitter: @undefinition1

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Paul Carmody View Post
                            Not to muddy up the works, but you could glue two 1/2 layers of plywood together, and you'd have a really beefy box.
                            I really "wood" ;-)

                            The worst thing that could happen, is more time in the shed. That's not too bad :-)

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                            • #15
                              Question: I have bought the precision port 3". I believe it's the one used in the original design.


                              ​​​​​​Is the lengt specified the total length with flares, or without?

                              Jens

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