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Enclosure thickness for the Classix 2.5

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  • #16
    The precision ports are great. I just used plain PVC with mine.

    The length is a little different with Precision Ports, because the flares are so huge. Using their calculator, the total length will need to be 10.75" (including the flares).
    http://www.psp-inc.com/tools2.html
    Isn't it about time we started answering rhetorical questions?

    Paul Carmody's DIY Audio Projects
    Twitter: @undefinition1

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    • #17
      I have seen people use the precision port with this, but I personally don't know how it can be used. There isn't enough depth in this cabinet for it. That is why I carved a custom front lip for mine and used a straight port. That still only leaves 1.75" between the port and the rear of the enclosure. With a precision port that would leave .75" Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

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      • #18
        Ugh! That's right. There's no room for it. Guess I'll just have to use one of the flares then?

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        • #19
          I'm thinking of making a base plate for the speaker, with added spikes. Maybe i could port it underneath, and make an opening in the base plate.

          That would make an opening of 2 x 7 inch. See image

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          • #20
            The precision port is part of the classix 2.5 kit on meniscusaudio. Maybe we should tell them, that there's not enough room for it?

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            • #21
              Actually, the kit description does not say "Precision Port", it says black ABS plastic with trim rings. The kit pictures do not show the port. I know there is a picture of a Classix 2.5 with what's obviously a Precision Port, that picture is from the designer. Use PVC as Mr. Carmody or talk to the kit supplier. They sell the kit with and without the port. The complete kits from this source are very nice in my experience. Their port page shows a 1" x 3" "trim ring" that is not a Precision Port part.

              A voice call to the folks at this supplier will clear up the issue. They are friendly and knowledgeable in my experience.

              Edit: The Precision Port is an upgrade to this kit so I would definitely call them.

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              • #22
                Yea - It's only if you select "Full kit", it will show up as the precision port. That's actually why i bought it - a huge flare was shown in the picture, and i went searching for that specific port. I wanted to do it right, and spent the money on them. I usually make slot ports.

                I didn't buy the kit from Meniscusaudio - but i will send them an email, so other builders don't run into the same problem.

                Maybe you should add it on your website Paul Carmody ?

                Just to be clear: I'm not complaining. I just want to clear up a possible mistake, so other people don't run into this issue :-)

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                • djg
                  djg commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Again, my reading of the kit description is the full kit gives you a 3" port tube with a trim ring. The Precision Port is an added cost upgrade found in the drop down menu of kit options. So, the seller has a bare bones kit, a full kit w/ 3" port/ trim ring, and an optional added cost Precision Port.

                  If you follow the usual Precision Port length adjustment instructions, it's too long. Perhaps the pictured cabinet only used the outer flare, or used both flares and did not follow the advice from the port mfr.

              • #23
                You can always make the cab deeper and shorter to accommodate the long port.

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                • JensToft91
                  JensToft91 commented
                  Editing a comment
                  I can't make it deeper without making it shorter.
                  Do you think my solution, with the buttom port is a bad idea?

                • djg
                  djg commented
                  Editing a comment
                  If you give it enough clearance. You can add height that isn't part of the cab volume with a partition. The design is awfully short for a tower anyway. You could make it a stand mount, You can do whatever you want, it's DIY.

                • JensToft91
                  JensToft91 commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Oh sorry - I just saw, that you said deeper AND shorter. That's true.
                  I think I'll go along with the port underneath. My design above gives it a 2 inch clearing, which is more than i can make inside the cabinet anyway. Fingers crossed

              • #24
                Another thought. I don't know why I'm so obsessed about using the whole port. It's only because i chose to spent money on it, that I want to use it.
                But why ruin the speaker, to fit an expensive flare? I can just use the middle portion, and do it right, by design.

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                • #25
                  Plans for the Statement speaker cabinet. A well known premium design.

                  http://www.speakerdesignworks.com/St...ocadlayout.pdf

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                  • JensToft91
                    JensToft91 commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Thank you. I may go with port underneath anyway!

                • #26
                  Progress on the first speaker!

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                  • #27
                    SOMEtimes resistors can run quite hot.
                    Using cardboard isn't the best idea in that case; can't think of many things more flammable.

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                    • JensToft91
                      JensToft91 commented
                      Editing a comment
                      I'm pretty sure, that I need to turn the music down, before I can start a fire with a resistor. But if it happens, i promise you, that I will find this thread again, and tell the story :-)
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