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  • 3d printing adventures..

    Look I know there isn't any science into what I'm doing, but I'm thinking it can't be any worse off then buying a piece of rubbery membrane off a slow boat from somewhere

    I watched a few videos on youtube with a gentleman why developed a couple of full range drivers and does tests of them (a lot more development than what I'm doing) and they sounded pretty good considering he is using pla, tpu and magnets.

    So I hoped in CAD and printed a small one using polyflex.tpu, my issue is I think it needs to be relatively thin in order to move, but at 1.5mm thick it seems to be having issues fully adhering at the top layers.


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  • #2
    Cool stuff.

    Could you just paint a thin layer of PE's black rubber cement compound to seal it up so it's airtight? That stuff is used to adhere dustcaps and such to woofer cones.

    Also a bit of E6000 in black would probably be as good and cheaper too.

    TomZ
    Zarbo Audio Projects Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCEZ...aFQSTl6NdOwgxQ * 320-641 Amp Review Youtube: https://youtu.be/ugjfcI5p6m0 *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
    *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF

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    • #3
      Interesting concept. I would wonder about fatigue of the suspension.
      Are you using "planer" type drive, or a central VC? There is a lot of history ( and empirical data) why rectangles are difficult as drivers, but you have a lot of capability in 3D printing that has not been considered.

      How capable is your setup for using different filaments for different areas? I guess really, how well do different filaments bond together?

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      • #4
        pretty sure this is just a PR

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        • #5
          Yeah I'm only looking at a PR Chris, but I did like old mates videos about creating a FR driver, just wanted to try baby steps first.

          Below is one of the videos of the creation of one of the full range drivers if anyone is interested

          https://youtu.be/Wd7FZhp0kHE

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          • #6
            3rutu5. I'm not sure if you are set up for multi material, but if you are, I had some (limited) success in the past printing flexible button membranes in TPU. I did this using a technique which I believe is sometimes called a scaffold. Rather than use supports, you have a full solid form underneath the membrane, matching the surface profile. If the scaffold is PLA, you can simply peal the TPU off it after printing, the bond between them is very weak. This might give you a way off printing a good roll-surround. I'd give it try myself, except I took the dual nozzle off my printer some time ago because it is generally more trouble than it is worth!

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