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Third times a charm, looking for suggestion: polypropylene in electronics.

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  • Third times a charm, looking for suggestion: polypropylene in electronics.

    Hey all, it’s been a minute since posting here. I’m wanting to replace some mylar capacitors and Ive asked at audiokarma and diy audio. I’m hoping to get a different answer than “if it ain’t broke don’t fix it” or “use whatever’s cheap” which are pretty much the only answers I’ve received.

    I’m rebuilding a McIntosh C28 preamp, MC2105 and MC2125 power amps that were given to me. I’m wanting to replace all of the mylar capacitors they used with good quality polypropylenes. I was thinking of just going with Sonicap as most people like Danny from GR love them. They’re a bit more expensive than I had thought which isn’t a problem, but I’m wondering for the price if I shouldn’t go with something else, like something from Mundorf.

    I’ve used many nice quality capacitors in speaker crossovers like Mundorf Supreme, Audyn Plus, Miflex, etc., but I’m wondering if people have had experience with any that seemed to have worked well in an electronics circuit.

    Any questions let me know,

    Thank you,
    Dan

  • #2
    I use the Panasonic industrial line of polypropylene caps. But then I like industrial music
    Francis

    Comment


    • djg
      djg commented
      Editing a comment
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u_mF0DhDSlo

    • Kornbread
      Kornbread commented
      Editing a comment
      Have several of the Panasonic ecq polyester caps ($1.80 for a 5.6uf, 10%). Haven't swapped them in and out of a system enough to get a feel for their sound.

  • #3
    Wimas are used in electronics all over the place, and they sound and perform great!
    I would avoid film/foil as thay can act as an antennae and pick up emi. Metallized also self heal and won't short when damaged.
    I would not go by Danny's recommendation alone, as he's just a shill, and I don't trust him.
    Other than that, use what you want to!
    Wolf
    "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
    "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
    "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
    "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

    *InDIYana event website*

    Photobucket pages:
    https://app.photobucket.com/u/wolf_teeth_speaker

    My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
    http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

    Comment


    • #4
      Look at the 942C capacitors from CDE, available at Mouser. I've got tube amps with Jensen Cu Foil in oil which don't sound any clearer/better than my recent build of Williamson amps with these for coupling caps.

      Comment


      • Kornbread
        Kornbread commented
        Editing a comment
        On Mouser, I only see those up to 2.5uf and $15, which is reasonable if they sound good.

    • #5
      Wolf beat me to it. I'm a Wima mkp, mks, and fkp fan. Might find this thread interesting https://audiokarma.org/forums/index....to-use.732762/
      http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...khanspires-but
      http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...pico-neo-build
      http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...ensation-build

      Comment


      • #6
        I recapped a 45-year-old Accuphase with Panasonic polypropylene. Fit well and work great.

        Comment


        • #7
          Originally posted by Wolf View Post
          Wimas are used in electronics all over the place, and they sound and perform great!
          I would avoid film/foil as thay can act as an antennae and pick up emi. Metallized also self heal and won't short when damaged.
          I would not go by Danny's recommendation alone, as he's just a shill, and I don't trust him.
          Other than that, use what you want to!
          Wolf
          Thank you for the suggestions all. Lol, I had no idea you felt that way about Danny. I’ll take home less seriously lol.

          I have tons of Wima polypropylenes on hand actually. I use them whenever I’m rebuilding the preamp section of something. I was just thinking something a little more “boutique” since I’m building up one of my own pieces. Maybe staying with Wima would be a good idea.

          Ive just seen high end gear with Sonicap, Vcap, Mundorf Supreme, etc in the circuit. So was kind of wanting to go for the same thing.


          Dan

          Comment


        • #8
          For a value/performance standpoint the Audyn q4 is popular. I was using a lot of the ebay Audiophiler caps in speaker builds, even used them in a 4sUniversal preamp build. Replaced the caps in the preamp with some Jantzen Superior and never looked back.
          http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...khanspires-but
          http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...pico-neo-build
          http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...ensation-build

          Comment


          • #9
            Originally posted by Kornbread View Post
            For a value/performance standpoint the Audyn q4 is popular. I was using a lot of the ebay Audiophiler caps in speaker builds, even used them in a 4sUniversal preamp build. Replaced the caps in the preamp with some Jantzen Superior and never looked back.
            Jentzen Superior are definitely on my short list. Have you been able to compare them to Sonicap or Mundorf Supreme?

            Dan

            Comment


            • #10
              Sonicaps can sound a bit bright in general, and the similar MultiCap I was told to avoid in preamps recently by someone who tried them. I would think the Audyn Plus/Jantzen Superior/Jantzen Silver/Mundorf Supreme would all be great ideas If you want to. TRT DynamiCap/StealthCap are what I see in electronics' guts photos from the magazines like Audio Research and BAT, but WIMA takes the cake on prevalence.

              Later,
              Wolf
              "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
              "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
              "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
              "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

              *InDIYana event website*

              Photobucket pages:
              https://app.photobucket.com/u/wolf_teeth_speaker

              My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
              http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

              Comment


              • #11
                Originally posted by Wolf View Post
                Sonicaps can sound a bit bright in general, and the similar MultiCap I was told to avoid in preamps recently by someone who tried them. I would think the Audyn Plus/Jantzen Superior/Jantzen Silver/Mundorf Supreme would all be great ideas If you want to. TRT DynamiCap/StealthCap are what I see in electronics' guts photos from the magazines like Audio Research and BAT, but WIMA takes the cake on prevalence.

                Later,
                Wolf
                Awesome, thanks for the info. Looks like the Dynamicap/Stealthcap are a bit too spendy.

                as far as Wima, is there a series you suggest? There are a lot to choose from. MKP4, MKP10, FKP? Want to make sure I get the good ones.

                Dan

                Comment


                • #12
                  Polystyrene capacitors are also an excellent choice for audiophiles and high end audio manufacturers.
                  I don't see them as often as I used to a few decades ago. They're easy to spot because they look semi-
                  clear in construction with axial leads. They also have extreme temperature stability. Good for up to .01uf.

                  Comment


                  • #13
                    If you want 'Styrenes, MultiCap RTX are available up to 3.0uF, or you can $$pecial order ClarityCap polystyrenes up to about the same value. The latter have been just a bit smaller than a 12oz pop can, but the RTX are about 2" x 3+".

                    Better still in stability are Silver-Mica, largest values I've seen are Russian 0.1uF in the old square potted metal canisters.

                    I don't think there is a reason to go styrene or SM, as they get huge fast, and availability is questionable.

                    Later,
                    Wolf
                    "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
                    "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
                    "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
                    "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

                    *InDIYana event website*

                    Photobucket pages:
                    https://app.photobucket.com/u/wolf_teeth_speaker

                    My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
                    http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

                    Comment


                    • #14
                      If you (or anybody else) tries polystyrene, be aware that soldering heat will easily melt them. Put a clip on the lead between the solder joint and the part to absorb heat, and don't heat the solder joint a long time.
                      Francis

                      Comment


                      • #15
                        Originally posted by Wolf View Post
                        If you want 'Styrenes, MultiCap RTX are available up to 3.0uF, or you can $$pecial order ClarityCap polystyrenes up to about the same value. The latter have been just a bit smaller than a 12oz pop can, but the RTX are about 2" x 3+".

                        Better still in stability are Silver-Mica, largest values I've seen are Russian 0.1uF in the old square potted metal canisters.

                        I don't think there is a reason to go styrene or SM, as they get huge fast, and availability is questionable.

                        Later,
                        Wolf
                        Thanks all, I think I’m going to stick with polypropylene, I don’t need incredible heat stability. Plus if you get polystyrene too hot it climbs in capacitance and stays there forever being off value.

                        Any suggestions Ben on which Wima would be the best to get? Values needed are .047uF to 1.0uF.

                        Dan

                        Comment

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