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First Crossover design, check me?

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  • First Crossover design, check me?

    Hello, This is my first crossover design. This is going to be for a pair of small bookshelves that will be used in my bedroom for general music listening. Enclosure will be about .2cuft and rear ported. Speakers wiill likely sit atop a dresser a few inches from a wall.

  • #2
    Your box seems okay, tuned in the low 60s?

    Even if you're only shooting for a few dB of baffle-step, I'd still push down that range from 1k-4k to avoid "shouty"-ness.
    Roll the tweeter off a tad higher (maybe decrease the 1st cap, & raise the 2nd?), and the 125 a bit lower (try an initial 1.0mH coil).

    Also, it can help to pick parts (values) that you can easily buy (w/out unwinding coils or using multiple caps).

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    • #3
      Agree with Chris about the shoutiness. The ear is very sensitive there, too much and the speaker will sound very "forward".
      Francis

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      • #4
        Doesn't look like any baffle step, diffraction, or offset. Is this from traced responses?
        John H

        Synergy Horn, SLS-85, BMR-3L, Mini-TL, BR-2, Titan OB, B452, Udique, Vultus, Latus1, Seriatim, Aperivox,Pencil Tower

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        • #5
          This is just the initial fool around in the virtual world, looking to see what drivers might work together well. Using the published ZMA/FRD data for the Dayton Driver, and the data posted by Impulse Audio from his tests of the peerless tweet. I'll plug more realistic values into the crossover design. Since this is my first go, just wanted some experienced eyes to make sure I was at least in the right galaxy.

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          • #6
            You are NOT in a galaxy far, far away (only a few parsecs off).

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            • #7
              I'll go home and experiment some more tonight.

              One question I have. I REALLY like the cosmetics of the Heritage collection from klipsch. I want to make these speakers small scale cosmetic look-a-likes of those speakers. I'm a pretty good wood worker so I plan to make the sides, top, and bottom of the box with solid walnut. I do want to run a grill on these, and I have a source for some nice grey grill cloth that is a fair approximation of the Klipsch stuff. I would like the grill to be flush/slightly inset into the front.....but that means the speakers' baffle will have to be inset and there will be a 1/2" lip around the outer boundary. How might I expect that to effect things? Is this just a bad idea that needs to be forgotten? Is there something I can do to account for the effects of this?

              Tolstoy

              The sun is the same in a relative way, but you're older. Shorter of breath, and one day closer to death.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by tolstoy View Post
                I'll go home and experiment some more tonight.

                One question I have. I REALLY like the cosmetics of the Heritage collection from klipsch. I want to make these speakers small scale cosmetic look-a-likes of those speakers. I'm a pretty good wood worker so I plan to make the sides, top, and bottom of the box with solid walnut. I do want to run a grill on these, and I have a source for some nice grey grill cloth that is a fair approximation of the Klipsch stuff. I would like the grill to be flush/slightly inset into the front.....but that means the speakers' baffle will have to be inset and there will be a 1/2" lip around the outer boundary. How might I expect that to effect things? Is this just a bad idea that needs to be forgotten? Is there something I can do to account for the effects of this?

                Tolstoy

                The sun is the same in a relative way, but you're older. Shorter of breath, and one day closer to death.
                Inset baffles are a bad idea that fell out of fashion a long time ago. The sound refracts from the protruding edges.
                Francis

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                • #9
                  I've got some orig. Large ADVE\T loudspeakers that I ran some tests on years ago.
                  I my youth, I always kept the grills off (1/8" masonite - cloth wrapped, velcroed to some 1" cubes glued to the baffle in 6 places) 'cause I liked to watch the 10" woofers "pump".

                  I found out that with the grills off, the response was terrible. The baffle was inset about an inch behind the cab edge, and the "fried-egg" tweeter sat on a funky "pedestal" about 7/8" proud of that baffle.
                  But ... the grill (which MINE had a round hole centered on the tweeter) basically fit against that pedestal, ALMOST like a flush-mounted tweeter today. The FR w/the grills on was really pretty darn flat. I did not know.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Chris Roemer View Post
                    I've got some orig. Large ADVE\T loudspeakers that I ran some tests on years ago.
                    I my youth, I always kept the grills off (1/8" masonite - cloth wrapped, velcroed to some 1" cubes glued to the baffle in 6 places) 'cause I liked to watch the 10" woofers "pump".

                    I found out that with the grills off, the response was terrible. The baffle was inset about an inch behind the cab edge, and the "fried-egg" tweeter sat on a funky "pedestal" about 7/8" proud of that baffle.
                    But ... the grill (which MINE had a round hole centered on the tweeter) basically fit against that pedestal, ALMOST like a flush-mounted tweeter today. The FR w/the grills on was really pretty darn flat. I did not know.
                    Interesting. OK, I guess if the grill is designed right it can compensate for the inset.
                    Francis

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                    • #11
                      I thought about building a "pedestal" for the tweeter to sit on that was roughly as high as the grill structure was thick....making the tweeter almost flush with the back of the grill cloth. Would be problematic with this particular tweeter because of the phase plug.. Wasn't sure if that would be an ok idea or not.

                      Tolstoy

                      The sun is the same in a relative way, but you're older. Shorter of breath and one day closer to death.

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                      • #12
                        The smartest way I've seen this done is by Paradigm. At first I thought it was just simply idiotic to not flush mount the drivers on a decently high end speaker until I realized that the grill frame was about the same thickness as the driver flanges and that the grill frame cutout was shaped to fit perfectly around the driver (and port) frames so that with the grills on, everything was indeed flush mounted and there were also no protruding frame edges/lip to create more diffraction problems.

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                        • #13
                          Did a revision with a different tweeter that won't stick out above the faceplate.


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                          • #14
                            Well, ONE of us must've entered a component wrong, 'cause I see a pretty big hump on the tweeter before rolloff?
                            Did you trace the FR from the SBA site?
                            Try a 5/5 L-pad instead of just series resistance for attenuation.
                            I also have to up your 2nd cap from 4 to about 10uF to get something that looks decent.

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                            • #15
                              Again, I got the FRD/ZMA data from data posted by Impulse Audio from his measurements derived from his testing. Now, the tweeter that he tested had a slightly different model number than what I labeled my schematic above. I could no longer find that particular model, but It appeared on Meniscus that it had been replaced by a different model that was essentially the same tweeter with a upgraded baffle mount.

                              Does the section on the woofer look ok?

                              Thanks for all the help!

                              Tolstoy

                              The sun is the same in a relative way, but you're older. Shorter of breath and one day closer to death.

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