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OT: time for a new table saw?

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  • OT: time for a new table saw?

    I have an old (30 to 40 years) Craftsman contractor saw that my father gave me quite a while ago after he had used it for a decade or three. Lately, it has started to not cut well and making a clanging noise as it spins. This noise is quite loud while it comes up to speed and continues while it's on even if it is not cutting.. I tried to determine what was wrong with it over the weekend and can't find anything interfering, loose or that doesn't feel smooth. Has anyone experienced this? Might there be bad bearings somewhere? Should I be replacing bearings on it or doing some other periodic maintenance to keep it running well? The belt seems fine.

    Frankly, I'd like to replace it with a Saw Stop contractor saw, but I'm not sure I'm even comfortable giving it away as it is now. It just doesn't feel safe to use.

  • #2
    Hello Paul,

    Could it be a belt that has been used so little as to have developed an oblong "memory" and causing the persistent noise?

    After having worked as an instructor at a furniture making academy I could never consider going back to a "contractor" saw. I found way too many detractors with them, (table size vs sheet good size, very poor quality and short fences, blade wobble, and all manner of poorly designed things). If I had to consider a replacement for a "been a good Ole saw", I would be looking on craigslist for a good, used, 3hp, 10" cabinet saw at a very minimum. Some very good brands are JET, Powermatic, General, or MAYBE a grizzly if I had to settle. For clarity please consider the following..........most, not all, but most quality cabinet saws in the world are made on one single street in Taiwan in about three different manufacture plants. Many of those saws only differ in small respects. Some use a better table, some better bearings, and some still with nicer paint.

    Yes, a Saw-Stop is a very nice saw indeed!!! But it is not the only way to acquire a quality TS, esp for the price. If you do consider a used cabinet saw any of them will be simple to bring back from a life of neglect. Cast-Iron table tops can be sanded quite directly to get rid of more rust than one thought possible and you will have something that you will never have to replace. In Ohio one could easily find a great quality used saw for less than 1K and maybe even less, depending on ones ability to quickly restore it. When it comes time try to find one with a Biesemeyer Style Fence or a Delta "uni-fence". They are both the cream of the crop and quite literally "make" the experience wonderful. Anything less simply increases the frustration of cutting instead of actually making it easy.

    Just some thoughts from life............

    Cheers,

    David

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    • #3
      I had access to a 3 HP Unisaw for about a year, so I'm very familiar with what they provide and the shortcomings of contractor saws. Unfortunately, my shop is my garage and that isn't likely to change any time soon, so EVERY time I want to use the saw, I have to move it into position. I'm also personally inclined to weigh the added safety of the blade retraction of the Saw-Stop saws quite highly. I wonder how well the mobile bases work with cabinet saws...

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      • #4
        Clanging on start up and spin down could be spindle bearing on a belt drive when the blade or carrier grazes something. Bearing noise is high pitched, belt noise lower whirl.
        John H

        Synergy Horn, SLS-85, BMR-3L, Mini-TL, BR-2, Titan OB, B452, Udique, Vultus, Latus1, Seriatim, Aperivox,Pencil Tower

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        • #5
          Paul,

          I hear you regarding the "Saw-Stop". I have a friend who was personally responsible for a TOTAL shut-down of the high school woodworking program in Shoreline, WA due to a foolish decision with a TS that took his fingers as a reminder. Be SAFE!!!

          I too have a woodworking shop that is the garage for the better half's car. I have a full size Jet, 3HP, 10" saw that I spoke of and the simple mobile base that it rides on is not only simple to operate, but it allows me to move that 450lb TS quite literally with one finger. No kidding. It is that easy!!! Since I have it mounted on the mobile base, I just store it against the wall under a shelf that holds my chop saw. This has worked very well for me since giving up the 5000 SF of shop space I had while teaching. It barely sticks out in the side of the garage where there is usually 18-24 inches available on both sides of the garage door. I will snap a pic and post it.

          Cheers,

          David

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          • #6
            This is my set-up ..........
            Attached Files

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            • #7
              Table saws are only dangerous if you don't take adequate precautions. The number one precaution is to use a sliding table. That way you're never pushing the work through the saw, you're pushing the table. Your hands are never near the blade, and kickback is next to impossible. You can buy one or make one. This video shows a particularly nice DIY sliding table. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eVWG8Nfi6_s
              I also use a sled like this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XebIOAaPhhU
              www.billfitzmaurice.com
              www.billfitzmaurice.info/forum

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              • #8
                Originally posted by gavinator68 View Post
                This is my set-up ..........
                That's very nice! Who makes your base?

                Do you consider recent Delta Unisaws to be good? There's a nice one not too far away.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by billfitzmaurice View Post
                  Table saws are only dangerous if you don't take adequate precautions. The number one precaution is to use a sliding table. That way you're never pushing the work through the saw, you're pushing the table. Your hands are never near the blade, and kickback is next to impossible. You can buy one or make one. This video shows a particularly nice DIY sliding table. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eVWG8Nfi6_s
                  I also use a sled like this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XebIOAaPhhU
                  I can see how sliding tables and sleds make a table saw a lot safer for crosscuts, but I mostly use my table saw for ripping.

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                  • #10
                    This is the info.............and it has worked fabulous for me for over 20 yrs. I also added the table extension legs if they are not included with the base. Those are the grey ones all the way over on the right side connected to the plywood table extension.

                    https://deltamachinery.com/accessories/bases/50-289


                    And yes, while in the middle of the garage it also serves as a 30"x76" sturdy work surface.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Paul Ebert View Post
                      I mostly use my table saw for ripping.
                      When ripping use feed rollers. They hold the wood tight to both the table and the fence. They even allow you to push the wood at the start of the cut, walk around the saw once past the midpoint while they hold the wood in place, and then pull it from the other side to finish the cut. https://thewoodsmithstore.com/make-s...-feed-rollers/
                      www.billfitzmaurice.com
                      www.billfitzmaurice.info/forum

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                      • #12
                        I like that feed roller jig a lot! Any idea where I can buy the roller clamps? A quick search turned up nothing (I'm probably not using the right name).

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                        • #13
                          Doesn't the far-end of your fence need to clamp down to the table in order to use that Roller clamping System?
                          Not all fences do that . . .

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                          • #14
                            Paul,

                            I missed your question regarding the latest Uni-Saw's.............personally, I would never spend that kind of money on a TS. Having spent my fair share of time as a machinist, I consider the TS to be a rotating blade with a flat table and square fence that STAYS that way. I just don't see it being anything more. As simplistic as my view may be it also forces me to approach the tool in a unique manner. I respect its inherent challenges and tweak them to my needs. I just want to cut something as square as I need. Nothing more. Often I will use the bandsaw to rip anything other than plywood. This is by far the safest way to rip anything, esp hardwoods. If I am making speaker enclosures out of panel, it will be the TS that I reach for. Always mindful of keeping my finners out of the rotating thing!

                            OH...........and McMaster-Carr is your friend.

                            Cheers,

                            David

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                            • #15
                              I have a Saw Stop contractor model with cast iron wings and the 36" T Fence and mobile base. I have had it for several years and have used the heck out of it. Used it for the first in a year this last weekend. The fence is still rock solid and dead on since I set it when I got it years ago. The only weakness it has ut of the box is the miter gauge. Get an Incra and you will have a set up that will last you a lifetime. I cannot reco enough this saw. rock solid, has cut anything I have thrown at it and 100% safe.
                              "A dirty shop is an unsafe shop, if you injure yourself in a clean shop you are just stupid" - Coach Kupchinsky

                              The Madeleine
                              The Roxster
                              Swopes 5.0
                              Acoustic Panels
                              Living Room Make Over

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