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Finished ZDT3.5 including CC *Pics*

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  • #16
    Re: Finished ZDT3.5 including CC *Pics*

    I wish I had 1/64th of the woodworking skill that you possess. They are amazing.
    Thanks. This is my first build. I dont really have any woodworking experience. What i do have is some friends w/the right tools to do the job. Using the right tools is the key to everything. The cab's would not of turned out the way they did w/o using the right tools and my attention to detail every step of the way.

    There are only one other pair of cabs I have seen that are that nice and they are teh ones built by my fried who is a master cabinet maker. He did them for another friend of mine while I designed teh speaker. I will get some pics sometime.
    wow, thats a very nice compliment......thanks again. Cant wait to see your buddies pics...

    like the crossover work nice clean look
    I agree. Stangbat does wonderful work.

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    • #17
      Re: Finished ZDT3.5 including CC *Pics*

      Full disclosure for anyone that is building this project, Blktre reminded me of something. In the crossover pics, not all of the C10 caps for the midrange notch filter are installed. When the order was placed, we somehow messed up and did not order all six capacitors for C10, only two. So I built the crossovers knowing that Blktre would have to place another order for the center channel crossover components and we'd pick up the forgotten ones at that time. Blktre ended up having the towers finished and was ready for the crossovers before the CC design was done, so I used four 0.1 uF metallized poly caps from Radio Shack to tide us over. The final components for the CC and replacement C10 caps are on the way now (along with three for the CC's mid filter).

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      • #18
        Re: Finished ZDT3.5 including CC *Pics*

        Krutke actually caught this and pmed me asking about it. Once i get the new caps, i will post new pics of it so nobody gets confused if using the pic as reference.

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        • #19
          Re: Finished ZDT3.5 including CC *Pics*

          BEAUTIFUL!!! I am working up the same project for myself this summer..
          Congrats on your obvious success..had a question tho, where did you obtain those hex-head mounting bolts?..Mark K

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          • #20
            Re: Finished ZDT3.5 including CC *Pics*

            Originally posted by msk View Post
            *snip*...had a question tho, where did you obtain those hex-head mounting bolts?..Mark K
            I'd like to know too...

            HH

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            • #21
              Re: Finished ZDT3.5 including CC *Pics*

              Originally posted by msk View Post
              Congrats on your obvious success..had a question tho, where did you obtain those hex-head mounting bolts?..Mark K
              I'll chime in regarding the bolts and hopefully not step on blktre's toes. He got them from PE and they are P/N 260-778. However, they did not work very well. When used with 3/4" MDF, the unthreaded portion at the top is too long and they bottom out in the nuts before you can get them tight.

              I used 1/4"-20 hex bolts too, but I got mine at Lowes. I ended up spending a lot of money for 36 bolts in packages of 2 bolts each. Plus 1/4"-20 bolts are popular and they were always in low supply and it took me several trips to get what I needed. So I recommended he used the bolts from PE as it was cheaper even if he didn't use the T-nuts that are included (he used Hurricane nuts). It ended up saving him money, but causing some problems. I'll let him comment on his solution to get them to work.

              Another thing people should know is that the holes in the Dayton RS drivers are too small for 1/4" bolts. You need to enlarge them with a 1/4" drill bit. It doesn't take much and it is pretty easy. You just have to be careful so you don't slip and damage a driver.

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              • #22
                Re: Finished ZDT3.5 including CC *Pics*

                The driver mounting bolts are the P/N that Stangbat listed. My problem using them was very easy to overcome and turned out not to be a big deal.
                The problem was the bolts are to long. The thread does not reach the top of the head. So that means when i went thru the 3/4" MDF, the bolt bottomed out at the top of the hurricane nut. It took me a few bolts to figure out a solution.

                All i did was add glue of course to the hurricane nut. And when i was screwing the bolts down i stopped at the sweet spot which kept the hurricane nut from completely seating flush on the backside of the MDF. Its not a huge deal as ive had the drivers out multiple times and everything is rock solid. So using that P/N of bolt, just be aware you don't want to suck the hurricane nut up until it bottoms out then stripping the hole in the MDF. I went back w/regular T nuts on the few holes i did that too.

                The baffle mounting bolts are hex head antique brass that was painted black. These were found at HD or Lowes in the cabinet/shelf building section. They are #20-1/4" 40mm long i do believe.

                Ditto on drilling out the holes in the driver frames as Stang suggested. Wasn't a big deal and i did this when i was marking spots in the baffle so 2 things got done at the same time w/ease.

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