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How do you attach your removeable baffles?

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  • How do you attach your removeable baffles?

    Hello everyone,

    I am finally getting around to finishing my new three way towers, but have kind of run into a snag.

    I'm looking for an attractive way to attach my baffles without it looking like a hardware store is hanging off the front of my speakers. If they were MDF, I would probably not care too much, but I have more in wood than drivers in these sadly enough.

    Anyway, pictures of your removeable baffle hardware would be great! BTW, these are pretty large baffles, so larger speakers with removeable baffles would be prefered.

    Thanks for any assistance!


  • #2
    Re: How do you attach your removeable baffles?

    Hopefully this pic will help you see how I did mine. The holes for the screws are also the holes for the grill. I had to counter sink the hole for the screw deeper in order to give room for the grill fastner.

    I also used a gasket between the baffle and the box.



    • #3
      Re: How do you attach your removeable baffles?

      Put several large braces flush with the back of the baffle. They should go all the way across from one side to the other like Ktaillon's example. I would make them a "bowtie" shape: >-< , so that they are wider where they meet the sidewalls and skinny in the middle to hopefully not mess with your driver positions. You want one of these braces every 8-10 inches, so one at the top and bottom of the cabinet, and two of them evenly spaced in the middle. If there's no way to fit it around a driver, make the brace larger and cut an oversized hole for the rear of the driver to poke through (it should be .5" larger in radius than the actual driver cutout so as not to restrict airflow in any way). Cuts don't have to be pretty - just make sure the width is correct so that they fit properly! . Affix them with titebond and clamp.

      Then drill a pair of 1/4" holes through the baffle and brace - one hole on the left and one on the right, so that each hole is toward the middle of each "bowtie" triangular section >-<. Countersink the hole on the baffle side to flush-fit one of these bolts:

      You also want to get a 50-pack of those bolts in a 1.75" length (or longer depending on the thickness of your baffle+braces. (you need at least 8 per speaker, buying in 50+ quantities is way cheaper).

      Then pick up a pack of 1/4-20 hurricane nuts from PE:

      Stick those in the reverse side of the braces, and with the baffle off, use a pan-head 1/4-20 bolt to pull the hurricane nuts into the brace so that you don't have to put too much force on the baffle to draw them in. Remove that bolt and the hurricane nut will stay embedded in the brace. Once all the nuts are in, lay your baffle on top and use the nice hex-head bolts you bought to pull it tight. You'll also want to use a layer of weatherstrip type material, or cork, to seal around the edges, and it couldn't hurt putting a bit on the braces as well (to keep the depth consistent).

      As always, do a few tests using scrap stock to get the hang of how the hurricane nuts work and to test the countersink depth.


      • #4
        Re: How do you attach your removeable baffles?

        I have used John Krutke's idea at least once--use hex socket head screws and washers into hurricane nuts. The screw heads double as targets for magnets mounted in your grille frame.

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