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Props for a Great Contact Cement

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  • Props for a Great Contact Cement

    Just got done veneering another set of C-Killas today. I used Titan DX Contact Cement from VeneerSupplies.com

    Gotta say I'm impressed, one coat, 20 minutes dry time, great coverage, nice tight edges. Solid bond. Excess comes right off. I never liked the typical water based CC. While it's recommended only for backed veneers, I couldn't imagine it getting any easier than this.

    Lou's Speaker Site [speakers.lonesaguaro.com]
    "Different" is objective, "better" is subjective. Taste is not a provable fact.
    Where are you John Galt? I may not be worthy, but I'm ready.

  • #2
    Re: Props for a Great Contact Cement

    Thanks Lou for the info. I will try this for my next CC application.
    Craig

    "I used ta do a little but the little wouldn't do
    So the little got more and more"

    Why I don't spray in first gear: http://s1138.photobucket.com/albums/...t=100_2585.mp4

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    • #3
      Re: Props for a Great Contact Cement

      Originally posted by LouC View Post
      While it's recommended only for backed veneers, I couldn't imagine it getting any easier than this.
      Did you use it on a backed veneer?
      Brad
      piano black sealing mdf irregular recesses grill technique

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      • #4
        Re: Props for a Great Contact Cement

        I second this. I used this waterbased contact cement for my first effort veneering and it worked fantastic (though mine took significantly longer to set up, as I was under the recommended temperature). However, while mine took longer to set up it worked very smoothly and made my first experience with veneering very satisfying.

        I used paperback veneer, the Titan DX waterbased CC, as well as a glue roller and veneer scraper from veneersupplies. This seems like an excellent product, though I say that without experience using others. Sometimes you just like the first thing you try though!

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        • #5
          Re: Props for a Great Contact Cement

          Originally posted by pypes View Post
          .... Sometimes you just like the first thing you try though!
          If at first you succeed... well, just smile and repeat.
          If it ain't broke....

          Thanks Lou, I read great things about this and it's top on my list of things to try if I get tired of ironing...

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          • #6
            Re: Props for a Great Contact Cement

            Has anyone used a product like this with vinyl wrapping? I have some of the PE vinyl, but the adhesive is terrible on it and I am no longer using it for anything because of that.
            Facebook | GCF DakotaDIY

            Midwest Audio Club

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            • #7
              Re: Props for a Great Contact Cement

              Originally posted by PWR RYD View Post
              Thanks Lou for the info. I will try this for my next CC application.
              I always do. The extra time & effort for unbacked veneer simply isn't worth it for me. Others have a different set of values. Exotics and burls are certainly "cheaper" than backed veneers, but in my experience, it's a lot more time consuming and you need to allow for a lot more waste -- and a lot easier to screw up.
              Lou's Speaker Site [speakers.lonesaguaro.com]
              "Different" is objective, "better" is subjective. Taste is not a provable fact.
              Where are you John Galt? I may not be worthy, but I'm ready.

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Props for a Great Contact Cement

                You might email Joe Woodworker & ask. It looks like a liquid latex based product. (Never really gets to a "no tacky" state so it looks like it might.
                Lou's Speaker Site [speakers.lonesaguaro.com]
                "Different" is objective, "better" is subjective. Taste is not a provable fact.
                Where are you John Galt? I may not be worthy, but I'm ready.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Props for a Great Contact Cement

                  What a strange coincedence - I was just on his web site yesterday looking at that very product. I was debating paper backed veneer or the 3M PSA option that he has available.

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                  • #10
                    Re: Props for a Great Contact Cement

                    Lou,

                    When using the contact cement method, do you have the opportunity to adjust/perfect the placement of the veneer on the substrate, if you place it on the surface lightly (i.e. before pressing down), or does it adhere immediately, even with light contact?

                    Also, did you use the scraper tool?



                    Cheers,
                    - John

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                    • #11
                      Re: Props for a Great Contact Cement

                      Originally posted by LouC View Post
                      Just got done veneering another set of C-Killas today. I used Titan DX Contact Cement from VeneerSupplies.com

                      Gotta say I'm impressed, one coat, 20 minutes dry time, great coverage, nice tight edges. Solid bond. Excess comes right off. I never liked the typical water based CC. While it's recommended only for backed veneers, I couldn't imagine it getting any easier than this.

                      Hi Lou,

                      Question for you. Since you have been using contact cement for veneer for quite some time now, how does it hold up over time? Any concerns with low/high temperature exposures?

                      Regards,

                      Rob

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                      • #12
                        Re: Props for a Great Contact Cement

                        Thanks Lou for the info, after getting stoned in my garage and coming out with less brain cells, and then the wife saying I stunk up the whole house, I need to try this product.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: Props for a Great Contact Cement

                          Originally posted by jclin4 View Post
                          Lou,

                          When using the contact cement method, do you have the opportunity to adjust/perfect the placement of the veneer on the substrate, if you place it on the surface lightly (i.e. before pressing down), or does it adhere immediately, even with light contact?

                          Also, did you use the scraper tool?



                          Cheers,
                          - John
                          Once it makes contact it's pretty much stuck.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: Props for a Great Contact Cement

                            Originally posted by theLinks View Post
                            Thanks Lou for the info, after getting stoned in my garage and coming out with less brain cells, and then the wife saying I stunk up the whole house, I need to try this product.
                            Yeah, I use this stuff in the kitchen; no smell at all. And when it's stuck, brother it is stuck. I missed by 1/8" on one piece. Pliers and all my might could not get it to pull off where it was stuck, just tore the veneer. Sanded it off to try again. Messed it up a second time, went to try Unibond and Better Bond cold press. Better Bond is good where you have a big or odd-shaped piece, though I wind up having to re-stick the corners. Went back to Titan DX for most stuff. Unibond? Not a fan.

                            Accidentally got some Titan on the laminate counter. Let it dry, rubbed off like rubber cement. That's easy cleanup...

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: Props for a Great Contact Cement

                              Originally posted by jclin4 View Post
                              When using the contact cement method, do you have the opportunity to adjust/perfect the placement of the veneer on the substrate, if you place it on the surface lightly (i.e. before pressing down), or does it adhere immediately, even with light contact?
                              Also, did you use the scraper tool?
                              No chance to move once the pieces touch. Unlike regular CC, this stuff has a bit of tack to it even when dry, so wax paper is out. (I used pencils for alignment). With CC you need to leave more trim than with iron on anyway.

                              I outline the substrate on the paper side of the veneer in pencil. Leave a half inch trim, and make sure the CC is applied at least a 1/4" past the pencil line. I align the long edge, then push the pieces together. If your off a bit you can still save it.

                              I do have a a scraper tool similar to that one and use it. I also follow up with a sound pounding with a rubber head mallet before I trim.

                              The big advantage over iron-on is time savings and no chance of burning the veneer. For giant towers, or where grain match is important, I'd probably still go with iron-on.
                              Lou's Speaker Site [speakers.lonesaguaro.com]
                              "Different" is objective, "better" is subjective. Taste is not a provable fact.
                              Where are you John Galt? I may not be worthy, but I'm ready.

                              Comment

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