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My RS180 MTM Design

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  • Wolf
    replied
    Don- I don't know that an LC is simpler/better than another LC. Both series and parallel are notch filters.
    Later,
    Wolf

    Leave a comment:


  • donradick
    replied
    Originally posted by AlexRivera View Post
    Hi All,

    I'm trying to input Mr. Bagby's design into his PCD 7 spreadsheet but I'm unable to get rid of what seems to be a cone breakup in the woofer (see picture), which I don't see in his chart.

    Should I really care about it, perhaps is not audible?

    I think this could be resolved with a notch filter but where do I put it in PCD?

    Thanks in advance!

    You are learning!

    The crossover "magic" in this design is the .025mH coil between the 20uF and ground.
    That creates a LC(R) trap that pushes the breakup nodes way down.
    Look at the PCD topology help page. Somewhere there is an inductor for that location.
    Everyone else used a notch filter on the RS metal cone drivers, Jeff found a better/simpler way.

    Leave a comment:


  • AlexRivera
    replied
    Hi All,

    I'm trying to input Mr. Bagby's design into his PCD 7 spreadsheet but I'm unable to get rid of what seems to be a cone breakup in the woofer (see picture), which I don't see in his chart.

    Should I really care about it, perhaps is not audible?

    I think this could be resolved with a notch filter but where do I put it in PCD?

    Thanks in advance!

    Leave a comment:


  • ontariomaximus
    replied
    Originally posted by wlg View Post
    Sorry if it's been covered already, but, can the non shielded RS180-4 be used in the series design?
    Also is there a reduced bsc crossover so these can be used for near wall placement?

    Thanks,
    Wayne
    I used the non-shielded 4 ohm version
    Can't offer anything about BSC. My front baffle is about 26 inches from the rear wall

    Leave a comment:


  • wlg
    replied
    Sorry if it's been covered already, but, can the non shielded RS180-4 be used in the series design?
    Also is there a reduced bsc crossover so these can be used for near wall placement?

    Thanks,
    Wayne

    Leave a comment:


  • kraigo
    replied
    Yeah, I've even got the screws around. In fact I'd resigned myself to use them on the tweeter because the screw holes were so close to the edge - too tight, IMO. I'll probably try to salvage the existing baffles. It costs nothing.

    Thanks!

    KO

    Leave a comment:


  • djg
    replied
    Just use the black sheet metal screws PE sells to mount your drivers on your new baffles. Quite secure, so much easier.

    In fact, you could probably save those baffles by knocking out the inserts, drilling a hole at each insert location, and filling with wood dowel. Proceed with pilot holes and sheet metal screws or wood screws.
    Last edited by djg; 10-16-2016, 12:36 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • kraigo
    replied
    FWIW, that was a relatively cheap learning experience (I think - haven't priced the baffles yet). It's all part of diving into this hobby. The dog is in no danger of getting kicked (not that she'd ever be).

    Leave a comment:


  • kraigo
    replied
    Well, so much for those baffles (other than as a template). I guess I won't be listening to these tonight.

    I wanted to do threaded inserts for the woofers to ease the pain should I have to open them up later. As accurate as I tried to be, it wasn't good enough. Add the super glue to the equation plus stripping out inserts while trying to get them out and you've got quite a mess. They'll be good templates for the next set.

    Thank God I held off until everything else was done before gluing them in.

    KO

    Leave a comment:


  • kraigo
    replied
    I just wanted to make sure that I wasn't missing anything. Thanks Jeff.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jeff B.
    replied
    Originally posted by kraigo View Post
    I'm about ready to button mine up. Reverse the polarity on the tweeter or not?
    Why do you ask? If you are building my design then you should follow the schematic I posted and keep the tweeter in normal polarity. Reversing it would give you a deep null in the response.
    Jeff

    Leave a comment:


  • kraigo
    replied
    I'm about ready to button mine up. Reverse the polarity on the tweeter or not?

    Leave a comment:


  • Jeff B.
    replied
    Originally posted by bekim View Post

    Hi Jeff, I'm planning to build these MTM's and use your cross-over. Dr. K mentions "A larger “extended bass” version of the tower would be approximately 1.7 cu. ft., tuned to 35 Hz via a 3" x 6-1/2" port. Again using 3/4" MDF, this cabinet would measure roughly 9" wide, 40" tall, and 12" deep. Note for these larger cabinets, a 3" diameter port is preferred, and a 4" port is an option if you are going to be running the speakers at high power. "

    I'm wondering if you'd advise using your crossover in this larger cabinet?
    it should work fine

    Leave a comment:


  • bekim
    replied
    Originally posted by Jeff B. View Post
    If you build it, as always, let me know what you think.
    Jeff B.
    Hi Jeff, I'm planning to build these MTM's and use your cross-over. Dr. K mentions ""

    I'm wondering if you'd advise using your crossover in this larger cabinet?

    Leave a comment:


  • 01-0077
    replied
    Re: My RS180 MTM Design

    Here's one http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...M-Towers/page2 (see post#34) although this has been modified to suit a different tweeter (see post#1 of the thread).

    Another in this thread (see post#12) http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...80-L-C-R-Build

    Leave a comment:

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