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Sub Attachť - slim-line 6.5" buyout sub build

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  • Sub Attachť - slim-line 6.5" buyout sub build

    I've been wanting to build this for my son for some time now to supplement the sound bar that we built for his desktop PC setup. While I procrastinated, Johhny did a nice 2.1 system with this sub for his daughter. Then the Holiday's hit and...well, you know the story. Anyway.....

    Space is an issue, so a slim-line sub enclosure is the way to go. I played around modeling the 6.5" buyout subwoofer in a small ported alignment with the Dayton SA-25
    Last edited by bkeane1259; 01-11-2012, 06:43 PM. Reason: Picture links
    Bryan K.

    Midwest Audio Club

    Speedster | Sub Attachť | The Wildeman | Sean's NLA Towers | CO‹GAR, COUGAR II and CO‹GAR JR | Triton | Lithium | J-Boom | Trym MLTL | Docere MLTL

  • #2

    रेतुर्न तो थे स्रोत
    return to the source
    leviathan system thread
    deadhorse thread
    shockwave build thread

    instagram :: greywarden_13

    in war, victory . . . in peace, vigilance . . . in death, sacrifice.

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    • #3

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      • #4
        Originally posted by greywarden View Post
        Looks Good. Someone needs to design a 2.5 or 3.5-way bass monster with these guys.
        I have a 3-way going with 2 per side, good' nuff?
        .

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Whitneyville1 View Post
          Really dumb question time. How would I go about putting a pair of these in an isobaric alignment, and what would the advantages be, beyond lower distortion. Do I wire one up normal polarity and the other reversed? Do I need two amps? I don't have the grasp of this. (Where's the "stupid" smilie?)
          Really the only advantage would be a smaller enclosure. I modeled 4 of these in an isobaric arrangement and came up with a internal volume of .75 ft, after losses. That would get the load back to 4 ohms and should get into the mid to upper 20's. How you mount the drivers would determine how you wire the drivers. If you mount them cone to cone, what some call clamshell, the drivers would be wired out of phase so that they move together. If you mount them cone to magnet you would just wire them in phase. You would need a 2 ohm stable amp if you were to use just two of them. If you mount them in a clamshell arrangment you would just need a spacer between the drivers, a ring made from MDF is what I've seen mostly. If you went with the cone magnet arrangment you could use spacers between the drivers that are thick enough to keep the inner driver's cone from hitting the outer driver's magnet at full excursion. I was going to do it this way using MDF spacers inside the enclosure. You'll want to make sure to account for the displacement of the driver and rings when calculating the enclosure volume.

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          • #6
            Don't listen to me - I have not sold any $150,000 speakers.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by mzisserson View Post
              I have a 3-way going with 2 per side, good' nuff?
              I approve, you can start building now :D

              रेतुर्न तो थे स्रोत
              return to the source
              leviathan system thread
              deadhorse thread
              shockwave build thread

              instagram :: greywarden_13

              in war, victory . . . in peace, vigilance . . . in death, sacrifice.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by greywarden View Post
                I approve, you can start building now :D
                Already have... Build thread coming soon... I will stop hijacking this thread now... GOOD DAY!
                .

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                • #9
                  There's a good chance I don't know what I'm talking about.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by tobis View Post
                    This makes me wonder about using these to replace the rear side stock speakers in my dakota club cab. Then power them (carefully) with a subwoofer amp when the real subwoofer box is out of the truck.

                    I don't know if there is enough mounting depth, or what volume or how un-sealed it is.
                    They are not mid-basses. They are true subs (in frequency coverage anyway). Not mush good above 250Hz or so.
                    .

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by mzisserson View Post
                      They are not mid-basses. They are true subs (in frequency coverage anyway). Not mush good above 250Hz or so.
                      That's fine. I'd be taking out the full range speakers driven by the deck and putting in subwoofers driven by a sub amp. The sub amp would normally power the subwoofer box sitting in the seat. I could unplug the box, take it out, plug in these guys, and still have some reasonable bass. Hopefully.
                      There's a good chance I don't know what I'm talking about.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by tobis View Post
                        This makes me wonder about using these to replace the rear side stock speakers in my dakota club cab. Then power them (carefully) with a subwoofer amp when the real subwoofer box is out of the truck.

                        I don't know if there is enough mounting depth, or what volume or how un-sealed it is.
                        As Mike said and as Johnny has measured, these 6.5" subs fall apart quickly above 200Hz, but if you're using a sub amp with an adjustable low-pass filter, I'm sure you could experiment. The cabin gain might actually work in your favor...who knows??

                        I can supply any physical driver measurements you might need....just ask.
                        Bryan K.

                        Midwest Audio Club

                        Speedster | Sub Attachť | The Wildeman | Sean's NLA Towers | CO‹GAR, COUGAR II and CO‹GAR JR | Triton | Lithium | J-Boom | Trym MLTL | Docere MLTL

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                        • #13
                          Bryan K.

                          Midwest Audio Club

                          Speedster | Sub Attachť | The Wildeman | Sean's NLA Towers | CO‹GAR, COUGAR II and CO‹GAR JR | Triton | Lithium | J-Boom | Trym MLTL | Docere MLTL

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                          • #14
                            Dremel Saw-Max. This is one heck of a handly little saw!!



                            The port hole is 2.375" and the PVC pipe fits extremely snug in it. You'll have to sand the pipe slightly and then hammer it in from behind, but it is SOLID.



                            I used a 1/2" roundover bit for the port exit.



                            Bryan K.

                            Midwest Audio Club

                            Speedster | Sub Attachť | The Wildeman | Sean's NLA Towers | CO‹GAR, COUGAR II and CO‹GAR JR | Triton | Lithium | J-Boom | Trym MLTL | Docere MLTL

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                            • #15
                              Genesis Multi-Purpose Oscillating Tool.




                              I used the Genesis sanding attachment to make it pretty.



                              Using Wally World mattress topper to line the large panel behind the woofer and I installed four 3/4" dowels for bracing.



                              Front baffle glued and clamped and she's drying as we speak.

                              Bryan K.

                              Midwest Audio Club

                              Speedster | Sub Attachť | The Wildeman | Sean's NLA Towers | CO‹GAR, COUGAR II and CO‹GAR JR | Triton | Lithium | J-Boom | Trym MLTL | Docere MLTL

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