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Guess viki didn't take me seriously back on post #13
No, Its not that way, Your direction about CTBs was very good and very appreciated. I am trying to get as many advices as possible. As Cbts were talked about 2nd time here I started Thinking about it.
Only reason I did not move forward is I am based in India, My wood working skills are very basic. I have very Minimal Tools and very little space for my diy activities , Which happen in Small Balcony of my Apartment. Only when My wife and kids are not at home.
Making any thing square ,rectangle Can be done by me.
But some thing angular and curved as CBT is not impossible but difficult for me, Will need big space and Some patience. We do not have CNC working workshops any where near. Ones which have CNC would not do except its a big order.
Kindly do not get me wrong.
All you Veterans guiding me for my Purpose , Itself is very big for me.
Aesthetics matter a lot as well as sound for my boss.
I read through many forums , about pair of 1139SIF playing equivalent to a 12" sub
There are cases where that would be true, however, if you don't understand the conditions of the comparison that make that true, then you are being mislead/misinformed. The part that is being "left out" is that, a 12" driver with the same displacement as the 2x1139's, would also be ~2-3dB more efficient assuming other characteristics were similar.
, So thought these subs would perform good as well look good. Just my opinion, All good advice is highly appreciated, and will definitely help me get to a good sounding system.
They can, if you use enough of them and have enough power to take advantage of their available Xmax. IMO, that's ~8 or more per channel, and ~100W per 1139 of clean amplification.
Amp to be paired is 400 watts Rms x 2 @ 8ohms.
1139SIF has nominal handling of 50 watts and max of 100 watts- SO if we install 4 to 6 of them are installed in single Single TL Enclosure , wont the Amp be able to handle them.
The amp will "handle" the load just fine as long as you wire up the speakers to produce a load that the amp is compatible with. Is it 4 or 2 ohm stable? Maybe there is more power available than 400WPC here... That would be good IMO, as I think you're going to want more than 400WPC if you do intend to use such inefficient drivers.
Do we really need a separate Sub amp.
No, you do not need a separate amp, however, when crossover design begins, you'll understand why you might want one. Depending on the x-over point you are after, I could easily see spending $300+ on x-over components to get the job done here. That happens to be the price of a brand new Crown XLS 1000 with built in active x-over... The deciding factor will probably be whether or not you choose to use the 1139's as part of a mid-range line or as sub duty only.
Horn tweeters are good I am attaching a rough drawing of what were my initial thoughts, Kindly guide. Also some advice as how many midrange drivers and tweeters should be paired to reach same spl as Sub drivers .
Depending on the x-over point selected and the position of the 1139's in the room, a single 8" mid-range, and a single 1" compression driver per side would "keep up" with as many as ~10 x 1139's per side IMO. If you use the 1139s up into the mid-range and form a functioning line out of them for the lower mid-range frequencies, then you will lock yourself into building lines for the other frequency ranges as well. However, if you go with a more traditional x-over point from the "subs" (usually well below 200hz), then you remain free to build either a point source or line source for your mid and high frequency ranges. In your application, it's important that you do not mix line and point sources. In all cases, it's best to avoid the creation of any multi-point-source behaviour< that said, it's nearly impossible to avoid it towards the higher frequency range when building any array, so don't fret about it too much.
Before finalizing on drivers, I have to get Advice from you guys for crossovers, This will be the deciding factor for using any drivers.
The crossover design comes after driver selection, not the other way around. The decisions you need to make at this time are A: To use the inefficient and costly 1139's or not? and B: If so, to use them as part of the mid-range reproduction or not? When you have put your foot down on some of these things, then a design can start moving forward.
Build 8 foot tall cabinets, about 10-12 inches wide.
Do a simple 2-way line array, using the 1139's up to ~500hz, and crossing over to these [ http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=264-884 ]. I would probably suggest as many 1139s as can be afforded or that will fit in the box height, and at least 2 of those 2" drivers per 1139, mounted in a line starting at the top of the box frame to frame crammed tight, with the lines as close together as is practical for your building skills.
This is starting to get ridiculous, with 'big' designs being thrown around left and right with little to no consideration for the designer's experience or skill level. A CBT array? Really? That's quite a big leap for someone who's only built a small TL design before, and it's irresponsible to lead the OP on to believe he can tackle the design and integration issues of a CBT array. Active crossovers? Econowaves? BFM Tuba folded-horn subwoofers? Remember, these aren't being built for the OP to have in his own home, but for his boss. A proven, good-looking, and well-integrated design from an experienced designer is mandatory.
I recommended the Schumakubins because they have a simple enclosure design, their drivers are affordable, and when the 7" aluminum drivers work together in the bass range they provide the combined surface area of nearly a single 15" woofer per side for the necessary bass impact in a larger space. I know the Dayton 7" aluminum cone drivers can sound very good from past experience with designs using the same midwoofers, and I know that Pete is a competent crossover designer, so the difficult work is already done. The Stentorians have the same format (quad-midwoofer 2.5-way floorstander), except they would trade bass extension (less of it) for more sensitivity (loudness), though the OP has stated he has plenty of power available. The Dayton RS tweeter in the Schumakubins is head and shoulders above the small-faceplate Vifa in the Stentorians.
I'm with Taterworks . I have a pair of sealed Schumakubins, a pair of vented would yield more bass. They are excellent fairly large and good looking speakers. Good match for the power available. Pete has several variations available including the 3 way Prisstina and a five speaker model, IIRC.
The OP mentioned a design with subs. LouC's Shticks is a possibility. One of those largely ignored designs.