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This may sound like a really dumb question, but with the connections on the back of the board and mounted against the cabinet. Wouldn't the connections get hot and become a potential fire hazard especially right up against the wood? That's my biggest concern, is a fire and always has been with anything electrical. I'm just probably over worrying about it lol. I was thinking about using little risers. Cut some little pieces of wood for each corner of the xover board to raise it from the cabinet.
I think if you had enough power to heat up the wire that much, you would blow a driver or a cap first. That said, I do use riser blocks, I solder my speaker wires to the back of the boards after all the connections are done. Using risers keeps the wires from getting pinched. It also makes it easy to mount and (if needed) remove the boards. I'll drill holes at the corners, screw some short wood blocks to the board, then I use either wood glue, or high temp hot glue to mount the assembly inside the cabinet. If I ever need to remove it I just unscrew the board, the blocks stay glued in place.
I'm just probably over worrying about it lol. I was thinking about using little risers. Cut some little pieces of wood for each corner of the xover board to raise it from the cabinet.
You are "over worrying." Also, don't bother trying to be fancy, especially with your first crossover. Do the connections on top of the board -- it's easier that way. Once you knock a few of these things out, you can get as fancy as you want - connections on back, plexiglass, etc.
I'm sure it has been mentioned before, but get yourself some euro terminal strips and use them for your inputs and driver outputs. You can cut individual sections apart.
It makes life much easier. This way, if you need to remove the XO boards you won't have to fiddle around with the wires that go to the drivers and the terminal cup. Does that make sense?
Here is the tweeter portion. Idk where to connect that top left 7.5uf cap end to. The solder point of the woofer xover where the 1.30mh and .22uf meet. Or straight to the post. This xover for the tweeter must be terribly wrong. LoL.
Here is the tweeter portion. Idk where to connect that top left 7.5uf cap end to. The solder point of the woofer xover where the 1.30mh and .22uf meet. Or straight to the post. This xover for the tweeter must be terribly wrong. LoL.
The only correction is that the 2 ohm resistor after the 4uF cap should also be parallel with the 40 ohm resistor. IOW the 40 ohm resistor should connect where it is at the top, but after the 2 ohm, at the same point with the .22mH on the left side of the 2 ohm. You can use speaker wire as a jumper if you can't figure out how to condense the board.
HAGD,
Marc
Even though I try to tell everyone upfront, understand that I am still a Newb. I wish the status of Seasoned Veteran/Senior Member, etc. was earned with time not posts...
Oh and to answer your question, yes that end gets soldered to the positive input just like the woofer circuit.
HAGD,
Marc
Even though I try to tell everyone upfront, understand that I am still a Newb. I wish the status of Seasoned Veteran/Senior Member, etc. was earned with time not posts...
Here are some things I see on how to condense the board...
1) Stand that .05mH inductor on edge, and turn rotate it 90 degrees, as if it were going to roll over the .22mH
2) Swivel the Parallel RLC circuit of 2uF, 6 ohms, and .05 mH under the 20uF cap (right side of this circuit will now connect with the 20uF cap)
3) Now place the 4uF cap under that circuit, running sideways (it is vertical now) left side will connect with the RLC (this will also be the positive out to tweeter point)
4) Run the 2 ohm resistor sideways under the 4uF cap, Right side will connect with the cap
5) Now between the RLC, and the .22Mh inductor, run the 40 ohm resistor vertically. The top will tie in with the RLC (left side), and with the 4uF cap left side
Now the .22mH bottom, the 40 ohm bottom, and the left side of the 2 ohm will all be connected to ground...
Edit:had to correct the inductor values
HAGD,
Marc
Even though I try to tell everyone upfront, understand that I am still a Newb. I wish the status of Seasoned Veteran/Senior Member, etc. was earned with time not posts...
You could wire the + leads from your woofer circuit board and your tweeter circuit board directly to the terminal cup OR you could wire the + leads from the two boards together and then run one lead to the terminal cup. In essence, if you had built this crossover on a single board, you would be tying the + tweeter circuit input to the + woofer circuit input. As far as the grounds, they ALL get tied together for everything. That's why I mentioned using those euro terminal strips or you could also use barrier strips. If you tie all the grounds to a single point, it gets to be pretty big...too big for soldering unless you don't mind a 2" ball of solder...LOL.
you could wire the + leads from your woofer circuit board and your tweeter circuit board directly to the terminal cup or you could wire the + leads from the two boards together and then run one lead to the terminal cup. In essence, if you had built this crossover on a single board, you would be tying the + tweeter circuit input to the + woofer circuit input. As far as the grounds, they all get tied together for everything. That's why i mentioned using those euro terminal strips or you could also use barrier strips. If you tie all the grounds to a single point, it gets to be pretty big...too big for soldering unless you don't mind a 2" ball of solder...lol.
+1 lol :D
HAGD,
Marc
Even though I try to tell everyone upfront, understand that I am still a Newb. I wish the status of Seasoned Veteran/Senior Member, etc. was earned with time not posts...
You could wire the + leads from your woofer circuit board and your tweeter circuit board directly to the terminal cup OR you could wire the + leads from the two boards together and then run one lead to the terminal cup. In essence, if you had built this crossover on a single board, you would be tying the + tweeter circuit input to the + woofer circuit input. As far as the grounds, they ALL get tied together for everything. That's why I mentioned using those euro terminal strips or you could also use barrier strips. If you tie all the grounds to a single point, it gets to be pretty big...too big for soldering unless you don't mind a 2" ball of solder...LOL.
How many of those euro terminal strips should I buy? 2? 2 with how many inputs?
I'm sitting here at the computer altering the crossover photo furnished by xsundown, all the while figuring that someone else was probably doing the same thing. Sure enough.... I won't post what I did to keep from further confusing things, but it looks a lot like yours
By the way, did anybody mention scraping off the clear coating from the inductor leads where they are to be soldered?
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