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The high pass filter SEEMS like the cap/coil/cap "T" is OK, but the LCR looks like it would drop the Silky way down on the top end, to the tune of -3dB @ 11kHz, -6 @ 14k, and -8dB by 20kHz. I'd skip it (OR, build it in there with a jumper across it, so it can easily be defeated if need be). Has this filter ever been used before? Anyone else want to try modeling it? Am I doing something wrong here?
Chris
I just finished an active 2 way using the DC28F-8 and a miniDSP. This tweeter has a peak around 16k that even my old ears can hear because it brings up the 12k to 15k. Once tamed, they sound good. I wound up using -4db at 16.5 kHz (Q=3). L2 C5 R3 looks like about -5dB at 15.9kHz. I would say that looks about right.
The high pass filter SEEMS like the cap/coil/cap "T" is OK, but the LCR looks like it would drop the Silky way down on the top end, to the tune of -3dB @ 11kHz, -6 @ 14k, and -8dB by 20kHz. I'd skip it (OR, build it in there with a jumper across it, so it can easily be defeated if need be). Chris
IMO, I think this LCR will provide a dip between about 8 and 12kHz, and go back up to 20k; as far as transfer functions go. The CR 'zobel' is to tilt down the very topend, and the 40uF is for level.
This is to address a peak in the passband, and then a dip that rises above the bump. I don't recall what the Silkie looks like up there, but the measurements show peeps did his homework.
Oh no. It's because I thought I had everything but forgot those terminals. Just another day wasted by my noobness. :D I just need some sleep. Been at this all day. My head is full of coils and cardboard right now lol.
Dont let all these perfectionists with their pretty crossovers get you confused, no one is going to see the inside of your speaker. All that matters is that the layout is correct.
They're neat, but you don't have to have them. I used them on my first xo, then never again, because by the time I get around to building the xo I've lost all patience and just solder it all together on top of the board. I have pretty much given up on neat,I just want them to work. I do make them small, though, so they'll fit easier, because I have been doing pretty small boxes.
Oh no. It's because I thought I had everything but forgot those terminals. Just another day wasted by my noobness. :D
Just to be clear you don't NEED those terminals. They just make things a bit easier IMO. You could use wire nuts if you want, or you could solder everything to each point, including the drivers and the terminal cups. It's up to you. Here's the rub. If you make a mistake and you've soldered everything, it's much harder to desolder and correct the mistake....that's all. Thinking proactively on your behalf.
Don't get discouraged! You are doing fine! If this is because of my suggestion on how to condense the board, I wasn't saying your layout is wrong, I was only trying to give advice on how to make the board smaller.
Oh no. It's because I thought I had everything but forgot those terminals. Just another day wasted by my noobness. :D I just need some sleep. Been at this all day. My head is full of coils and cardboard right now lol.
*sigh* I'm going to have dinner and crash for the night. I'm about to just throw everything out of the window.
Don't get discouraged! You are doing fine! If this is because of my suggestion on how to condense the board, I wasn't saying your layout is wrong, I was only trying to give advice on how to make the board smaller.
By the way, did anybody mention scraping off the clear coating from the inductor leads where they are to be soldered?
I see in his photos that where he's lining up the inductor leads, it's already scraped/tinned. However, that's a really good point, just in case he decides to trim the inductor leads. Good one Ron.
I'm sitting here at the computer altering the crossover photo furnished by xsundown, all the while figuring that someone else was probably doing the same thing. Sure enough.... I won't post what I did to keep from further confusing things, but it looks a lot like yours
By the way, did anybody mention scraping off the clear coating from the inductor leads where they are to be soldered?
You could wire the + leads from your woofer circuit board and your tweeter circuit board directly to the terminal cup OR you could wire the + leads from the two boards together and then run one lead to the terminal cup. In essence, if you had built this crossover on a single board, you would be tying the + tweeter circuit input to the + woofer circuit input. As far as the grounds, they ALL get tied together for everything. That's why I mentioned using those euro terminal strips or you could also use barrier strips. If you tie all the grounds to a single point, it gets to be pretty big...too big for soldering unless you don't mind a 2" ball of solder...LOL.
How many of those euro terminal strips should I buy? 2? 2 with how many inputs?
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