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I learned how to cheat today...

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  • I learned how to cheat today...

    I was downstairs in the woodshop working on a subwoofer for a friend of mine and was ready to do the recess for a Titanic MKII driver.
    the thing I least like about building speakers is routing out the driver recesses and holes, so I decided to try to cheat a little bit.

    I modded this driver a bit by taking off the rubber cover which allowed for a mounting depth that is less deep. That rubber boot is seriously thick.

    To rout the driver recess only took four passes with a 1/4" spiral upcut bit in the router. The depth of the recess was 7/16ths roughly, so I routed out the outer diameter of the cut out in two passes to split the depth of the cut. Then I adjusted the diameter for the inside cut, and did that in two depth cuts as well since 7/16ths is too deep to cut in one pass.



    Then I used my sabre saw to cut the driver cut out, which left a small ring of MDF between the first and second router passes. I then used my utility knife to trim this piece of cleanly and easily. Actually, it was alarming at how easy this piece came off, but it worked effortlessly, and cut the time it took me to do the driver recess by a third.



    I doubt this would work as well for Particle board, and probably wouldn't work at all for hardwood or plywood, but for MDF it worked fantastic.

    Also, I wanted the driver to still have a finished look to it, so I will mount it with drywall screws and then apply some of PE's driver sealing gasket tape to the flange to cover the screw holes. There's a screw behind the piece of gasket tape in this pic, and you can't really tell. It should finish things off nicely. The tape even has a slight texture that matches the aluminum frame.



    TomZ
    *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
    *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

    *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

  • #2
    Re: I learned how to cheat today...

    Neat idea! I, too, hate routing holes, but not as much as using a sabre saw.

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    • #3
      Re: I learned how to cheat today...

      Originally posted by chrisn View Post
      Neat idea! I, too, hate routing holes, but not as much as using a sabre saw.
      I know, sabre saws are taxing to use, but that's the first tool, or I should say power tool that I was allowed to use when I was a kid. I built my first set of speakers using nothing but a sabre saw as far as power tools were concerned. I think I was 14 or 15. I actually thought those speakers sounded good.

      Actually, in this case, I was able to cut just along the inside of the main disc using the full thickness as a guide without actually cutting it. I was only cutting into less than 1/4" of material or so. It went fast.

      TomZ
      *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
      *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

      *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: I learned how to cheat today...

        Tom,

        I don't per se cheat on subwoofer baffle recesses. I use a double thickness baffle and clearance cut the top thickness so that the driver is surface mounted on the second baffle. You get a recessed driver and an extra thick baffle for mounting and clearance for driver movement.

        Jim

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        • #5
          Re: I learned how to cheat today...

          Originally posted by Jim Griffin View Post
          Tom,

          I don't per se cheat on subwoofer baffle recesses. I use a double thickness baffle and clearance cut the top thickness so that the driver is surface mounted on the second baffle. You get a recessed driver and an extra thick baffle for mounting and clearance for driver movement.

          Jim
          Sorry Sir,

          That's still cheating!
          No, that's an excellent idea and that would only make two circular cuts with a sabre saw if you went that route. You can't get much easier than that I don't think.
          I could have done that on this box by using 1/2" on the outer baffle. I think the original gasket on the Titanic MK2's were just about 3/4" thick. That's why I got rid of it, it's just too thick and doesn't look quite right to me; I like to see some curve of the surround, the rubber gasket just hides it.

          TomZ
          *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
          *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

          *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: I learned how to cheat today...

            Originally posted by Jim Griffin View Post
            Tom,

            I don't per se cheat on subwoofer baffle recesses. I use a double thickness baffle and clearance cut the top thickness so that the driver is surface mounted on the second baffle. You get a recessed driver and an extra thick baffle for mounting and clearance for driver movement.

            Jim
            With you there and that is how I've been doing mine for the past four builds.

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: I learned how to cheat today...

              My take on an old saying.........laziness (or do you say efficiency?) is the mother of invention!

              Finding an easier way to get it done always improves production. Thanks for sharing.

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: I learned how to cheat today...

                the thought of a router turning my hand into hamburger always terrifies me, but the circle jig from jasper makes it sooo easy. the video PE has up for it is a little misleading, but after a couple tries on some scrap you get it. my experience with it is either drill through the piece and into a work bench, or a large scrap with a 1/8" bit. then take a dull or old 1/"bit and put it through the hole until its sticking through the top about 3/16". find the largest hole size you need and work your way in until you're at speaker mounting size the route through a little more than your material.

                your trick is good, but i hate sabre saws because of the untidy edges the cut. i even have whats supposed to be the greatest saw ever from festool, and i still rarely use it for holes.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: I learned how to cheat today...

                  "I doubt this would work as well for Particle board, and probably wouldn't work at all for hardwood or plywood, but for MDF it worked fantastic."

                  Isn't that particle board in your pictures?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: I learned how to cheat today...

                    Originally posted by kanemack View Post
                    the thought of a router turning my hand into hamburger always terrifies me, but the circle jig from jasper makes it sooo easy. the video PE has up for it is a little misleading, but after a couple tries on some scrap you get it. my experience with it is either drill through the piece and into a work bench, or a large scrap with a 1/8" bit. then take a dull or old 1/"bit and put it through the hole until its sticking through the top about 3/16". find the largest hole size you need and work your way in until you're at speaker mounting size the route through a little more than your material.

                    your trick is good, but i hate sabre saws because of the untidy edges the cut. i even have whats supposed to be the greatest saw ever from festool, and i still rarely use it for holes.
                    I hear you, sabre saws make ugly holes, but if it's hidden, it's fine with me. Plus it's less dusty that router work. Even with dust collection, it still gets on the floor.

                    I'm using my home-made circle cutting jig for these holes. I have the smaller Jasper jig for smaller holes.

                    Originally posted by Sir Roundsound View Post
                    "I doubt this would work as well for Particle board, and probably wouldn't work at all for hardwood or plywood, but for MDF it worked fantastic."

                    Isn't that particle board in your pictures?
                    The box itself is particle board, but the baffle is actually MDF, I think the flash probably made it look lighter than it is. Also, I think MDF from different regions has a different hue to it. Around here, I mostly see the darker variety, but I have seen lighter MDF in other areas.

                    Maybe there's bits of lighter metals like aluminum in those lighter colored MDF's where my areas darker MDF has good old fashioned steel and iron flecks in it.

                    A joke of course, but actually I did actually see a few bits of metal in some Particle Board that I used for this project as well. I didn't see a spark, but after I cut a piece, I noticed a shiny bit of metal thicker than a small nail inside the meat of it. I hope this isn't a trend of the future!

                    Soon we may see threads about keeping inductors away from particle board because it will change the value of the coil!

                    TomZ
                    *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
                    *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

                    *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: I learned how to cheat today...

                      After taking a closer look at the pics, I see the difference. Sorry for the confusion.

                      I hate routing too, thanks for the tip!

                      Comment

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