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Continuum Speakers Using my Trench Method on the MDF Seams

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  • Continuum Speakers Using my Trench Method on the MDF Seams

    Man I hope this doesn't' turn into another MDF seam argument.
    I've had quite a few people asking me about it so since I've been commissioned to build a set of Continuum boxes and stands, with an automotive finish, I would post a thread on how I do it.

    I've had three people contact me about building Continuum cabinets all in one week. Those kits must be flying off the shelves.

    Basically to start I built a box with b u t t seams and glued them up. On all the end grain of the round overs I smear body putty as smooth and thin as possible to fill in the grain. My theory is the least amount of moisture the better.



    I just did 45 degree miters on the stand posts and used duct tape to glue them up. I basically lay strips of duct tape glue side up on a flat surface, lay all the pieces side by side as tight as possible face down on the duct tape, run glue down the joints and then fold the pieces into a box. Forgot to take a pic of it.



    Once glue is set up I run a flush bit around the boxes.



    I used a horizontal crown molding bit to make the trench.
    Mine was only $25 dollars though.
    http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...0&site=ROCKLER

    The trenches are only 1/8" deep but the pics make them look way deeper.







    Next up Smearing the body putty on.

    Dave

  • johnnyrichards
    replied
    Re: Continuum Speakers Using my Trench Method on the MDF Seams

    Originally posted by davepellegrene View Post
    Thanks Johnny,
    I tend to learn these things the hard way.

    Dave
    We all do. I was wet sanding the clear on Amara last year and used a towel to rest them on. Got one side done, flipped it over to do a different side and noticed the towel prints.

    Leave a comment:


  • davepellegrene
    replied
    Re: Continuum Speakers Using my Trench Method on the MDF Seams

    Originally posted by johnnyrichards View Post
    Dave those turned out beautiful, and good reminder on waiting a while after color coat to let it harden.
    Thanks Johnny,
    I tend to learn these things the hard way.

    Dave

    Leave a comment:


  • davepellegrene
    replied
    Re: Continuum Speakers Using my Trench Method on the MDF Seams

    Originally posted by tyger23 View Post
    Dave, how are the woofers attached? I didn't see it in the previous photos. Typically, there's a through-hole screw for them...
    Good point I forgot about that. I used #10 hanger bolts. It's a good idea to put these in first since the baffle is only 3/4" thick as you turn them in they can leave a dimple on the baffle face. Easy enough to sand flat before finish. I predrill the holes to make it much easier. I would also suggest using Seal and Peel between the baffle and driver for a good seal. If weather stripping is preffered I would get as thin as possible so you don't have to torque down to tight. I put felt pads on the blocks since the driver is flush to the back side.
    I also made the driver hole smaller then normal and used a 3/4" round over around the driver instead of a 1/2" round over.



    Dave

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  • jhollander
    replied
    Re: Continuum Speakers Using my Trench Method on the MDF Seams

    Thank you for the information, that was helpful

    Leave a comment:


  • tyger23
    replied
    Re: Continuum Speakers Using my Trench Method on the MDF Seams

    Dave, how are the woofers attached? I didn't see it in the previous photos. Typically, there's a through-hole screw for them...

    Leave a comment:


  • johnnyrichards
    replied
    Re: Continuum Speakers Using my Trench Method on the MDF Seams

    Dave those turned out beautiful, and good reminder on waiting a while after color coat to let it harden.

    Leave a comment:


  • davepellegrene
    replied
    Re: Continuum Speakers Using my Trench Method on the MDF Seams

    The new owner will install the terminals when he installs his drivers and crossovers. I just dropped my drivers in one for the photo shoot.

    Dave

    Originally posted by dstmbgh View Post
    Question: How do you hook them up? I don't see terminals in any of the pictures.

    Great look, Dave. Bold and bright. Very nicely documented process of preping mdf for painting. Thanks for sharing this.

    Leave a comment:


  • dstmbgh
    replied
    Re: Continuum Speakers Using my Trench Method on the MDF Seams

    Question: How do you hook them up? I don't see terminals in any of the pictures.

    Great look, Dave. Bold and bright. Very nicely documented process of preping mdf for painting. Thanks for sharing this.

    Leave a comment:


  • fdieck
    replied
    Re: Continuum Speakers Using my Trench Method on the MDF Seams

    Those are so nice. I take mine in British Racing Green and a yellow racing stripe on the stand... After I save up my money that is.

    Leave a comment:


  • davepellegrene
    replied
    Re: Continuum Speakers Using my Trench Method on the MDF Seams

    Thanks Jeff,
    I think the Continuums lead the pack in how many different variations are out there of the same speaker.

    Dave

    Originally posted by Jeff B. View Post
    I love'em Dave! Great job!

    Leave a comment:


  • davepellegrene
    replied
    Re: Continuum Speakers Using my Trench Method on the MDF Seams

    John,
    I went to an old friend that owns several automotive paint stores in the area. He's like a world book of knowledge with auto finishes. He told me body putty is body putty. It's all the same.
    I can tell you it was USG Feather-rite. It was very creamy. I finished up a few spots with some Bondo brand that I had left over from about a year ago and it was no where near as creamy as the USG. So I don't know if it was just old and thickened. As far as getting it on smooth I would just have to say mix up only as much as you can work in about 2 minutes time. Get it on the surface fast and thick. Scrape the excess off you blade then start scraping it off the surface by holding your blade on a steeper angle then what you put it on. I start at one side and work my way to the other side with top to bottom scrapes. I would do an area top to bottom and if you run out in the middle of the panel let it set up. Then pick up from there and finish the rest of the way across the panel with a new batch. I find if you scrape from top to bottom in one motion you get a flatter surface. If you start and stop in the middle you will get humps that will have to be sanded out and it makes much more work. The thinner you keep the coats the less excessive sanding you will have to do. As I get the surface flatter with each coat I will end up with the blade almost 90 degrees to the surface scrapping it smooth. I've done a lot of drywall work through the years so I have an advantage getting it on smooth. You would be surprised if all you are doing is covering the MDF to seal the surface it only takes a very thin coat. on the corners I apply it 90 degrees from the corner dab it on fairly thick then clean your blade off and run up and down from top to bottom working from the face of one surface around with several strokes until you get to the face of the opposite surface. It's best to keep the corners thick, 1/16' to 1/8", because it will sand off the corners very fast. On the end grain it only takes a very thin layer to fill it and primer will not soak in at all. On coat will probably do it if you get the mud smooth. Spot putty works well too to fill in small voids and pits.

    Hope that helps.
    Dave

    Originally posted by jhollander View Post
    Dave what body putty do you use that goes on that thin? Any special techniques for covering large surfaces before it hardens off?

    Leave a comment:


  • Jeff B.
    replied
    Re: Continuum Speakers Using my Trench Method on the MDF Seams

    I love'em Dave! Great job!

    Leave a comment:


  • davepellegrene
    replied
    Re: Continuum Speakers Using my Trench Method on the MDF Seams

    Originally posted by dukeofdorkdom View Post
    Dave is making those for me... wife's only stipulation was they had to be a bright color (living in grey skies Seattle, bright colors are a very welcome sight), and her favorite color is orange...

    Good news, they are done!

    Bad news, they need to sit about two weeks before I can wrap them up and send them off!

    I'd hate to have them show up with marks in the paint because it's to soft.

    I did make up some mounts so all you need to do is drop the woofer in and snug it down. The top of the stand comes off with one screw on the back side of the post so you can fill them with whatever you want. You could even run the speaker wire down through the stand if you want.

    Dave

    Leave a comment:


  • davepellegrene
    replied
    Re: Continuum Speakers Using my Trench Method on the MDF Seams

    I took them outside today to catch the sun. I went from not enough sun to to much sun. I did get a couple shots that are ok.







    Dave

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