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  • Rattle Paint Question

    I have a pair of Tritrix TL's that I want to finish with a satin black. So far, they have been assembled and primed. I filled in all the screw holes, sanded smooth and painted with Glidden Gripper primer and sanded smooth again. I don't trust/believe in my abilities with a roller or a brush and I don't have a sprayer, this is why I want to use rattle can finish. Is there a brand / type rattle can that would be recommended for this finish?
    Thank you all in advance for your help with this.
    Josh

  • #2
    Re: Rattle Paint Question

    If you're gonna spray bomb those TLs, better get something like this, or your trigger finger will cramp.

    http://www.amazon.com/Rust-oleum-243.../dp/B000DZFE44

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Rattle Paint Question

      If you have not tried it before I'd recommend a high quality oil based paint and foam roller for those large speakers.

      I've done two big towers and a sub with Benjamin Moore Satin Impervo Alkyd low lustre enamel in black. It's amazing how this paint flows out and gets flat over time. I've tried a few others from Lowes and HD and been disappointed.

      I'll see if I have a few pics
      John H

      Synergy Horn, SLS-85, BMR-3L, Mini-TL, BR-2, Titan OB, B452, Udique, Vultus, Latus1, Seriatim, Aperivox,Pencil Tower

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      • #4
        Re: Rattle Paint Question

        Here are a few pics. The first one is gloss and was only a week old. As the solvents evaporate the finish gets smoother. I think it's about 30 days before I stopped noticing changes. Hard to tell with low luster/ stain how smooth the paint is.
        Attached Files
        John H

        Synergy Horn, SLS-85, BMR-3L, Mini-TL, BR-2, Titan OB, B452, Udique, Vultus, Latus1, Seriatim, Aperivox,Pencil Tower

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Rattle Paint Question

          A can trigger like djg linked is a must. I've gotten the best results with Krylon cans. Most of their cans have an "EX" tip, which is basically just a wider spray pattern. It allows you to get a better overlap with each pass and avoid tiger striping.

          I wouldnt recommend using gloss for a beginner, any unevenness will show very clearly. You can turn flat paint into satin by simply wiping it down with lemon pledge after the paint cures.
          http://jaysspeakerpage.weebly.com/

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          • #6
            Re: Rattle Paint Question

            Try using flat black with a clear water based satin after it cures. Just try it on a sample board.
            " To me, the soundstage presentation is more about phase and distortion and less about size. However, when you talk about bass extension, there's no replacement for displacement". Tyger23. 4.2015

            Quote Originally Posted by hongrn. Oct 2014
            Do you realize that being an American is like winning the biggest jackpot ever??

            http://www.midwestaudioclub.com/spot...owell-simpson/
            http://s413.photobucket.com/albums/pp216/arlis/

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Rattle Paint Question

              oops
              " To me, the soundstage presentation is more about phase and distortion and less about size. However, when you talk about bass extension, there's no replacement for displacement". Tyger23. 4.2015

              Quote Originally Posted by hongrn. Oct 2014
              Do you realize that being an American is like winning the biggest jackpot ever??

              http://www.midwestaudioclub.com/spot...owell-simpson/
              http://s413.photobucket.com/albums/pp216/arlis/

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Rattle Paint Question

                With rattle cans, my best results were several coats followed with a fine (800 or better) wet sandpaper and plenty of buffing and polishing. Sometimes, it helped to get a smooth, even coat by spraying down onto a horizontal surface.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Rattle Paint Question

                  I have a lot of spray experience, from modeling. I also worked for a body shop in high school, then went to school for boat building for a year and a half before committing to college. I'm out of practice, but positive I can spray a decent coat.
                  I plan on spraying one side at a time and rotating the boxes after dry to the touch. So I will be spraying on a horizontally flat surface.
                  I recently did a project with Krylon enamel and wasn't very thrilled with the product. It went on smooth and dried exceptionally quick (about 10 minutes). But as it dried it developed a strange haze and made the finish look frosted, kind of like and old glazed donut. It wasn't orange peel, just hazy. I hit it with some steel wool the next day and was able to get the haze out. But I've never had to deal with that type of thing from spraying before.

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                  • #10
                    Re: Rattle Paint Question

                    The haze is called blushing. It was probably humid when you sprayed. Moisture is absorbed by the solvents in the finish and gets trapped as the finish surface dries. This creates the haze.
                    Sometimes a light sanding (or steelwool) will mostly eliminate it by opening up the surface to allow the trapped moisture to escape.

                    You primed with Gripper which is an acrylic latex material. Pick a topcoat that is compatible with that primer.
                    Lacquers and most spray bomb enamels contain pretty hot solvents that will likely make a mess of it.
                    The most compatible finish to apply would be an acrylic latex paint. Oil based enamels could be used as well.

                    Originally posted by SIXFINS View Post
                    I have a lot of spray experience, from modeling. I also worked for a body shop in high school, then went to school for boat building for a year and a half before committing to college. I'm out of practice, but positive I can spray a decent coat.
                    I plan on spraying one side at a time and rotating the boxes after dry to the touch. So I will be spraying on a horizontally flat surface.
                    I recently did a project with Krylon enamel and wasn't very thrilled with the product. It went on smooth and dried exceptionally quick (about 10 minutes). But as it dried it developed a strange haze and made the finish look frosted, kind of like and old glazed donut. It wasn't orange peel, just hazy. I hit it with some steel wool the next day and was able to get the haze out. But I've never had to deal with that type of thing from spraying before.
                    ~99%
                    Make me an angel that flies from Montgomery
                    Make me a poster of an old rodeo
                    Just give me one thing that I can hold on to
                    To believe in this livin' is just a hard way to go

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                    • #11
                      Re: Rattle Paint Question

                      Originally posted by djg View Post
                      If you're gonna spray bomb those TLs, better get something like this, or your trigger finger will cramp.

                      http://www.amazon.com/Rust-oleum-243.../dp/B000DZFE44
                      This is a much better unit, because of the larger grip area:

                      http://www.amazon.com/Can-Gun1-2012-...ywords=Can+Gun
                      Don't worry, if your parachute fails, you have the rest of your life to fix it.

                      If we all did the things we are capable of doing, we would literally ASTOUND ourselves - Thomas A. Edison

                      Some people collect stamps, Imelda Marcos collected shoes. I collect speakers.:D

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                      • #12
                        Re: Rattle Paint Question

                        So is there one rattle can better than the others, or are they all the same? Should I go for Krylon, Rustoleum, Valspar or some other brand? Also, would I be better off with a specific type from the mfg. (Dual, 2 in 1, enamel, etc.)

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                        • #13
                          Re: Rattle Paint Question

                          Bob, yes it was very humid here in South Florida. Almost everything I've sprayed has been climate controlled, either been in a booth or my dining table.

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                          • #14
                            Re: Rattle Paint Question

                            Between acrylic laquer and acrylic enamel, I personally don't have a preference. Maybe laquer was a bit easier and quicker to cure but enamel, i think, is tougher. Other than that, you often get what you pay for.

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                            • #15
                              Re: Rattle Paint Question

                              I like the Krylon because the spray heads shoots a finer mist than the regular Rustoleum aerosols. Unfortunately, the Krylon spray heads will not work on a Rustoleum can. The bad thing about Krylon is their limited color selection.

                              I just tried the Rustloeum Universal aerosol. It has a built-in spray head on the cap. This spray head also sprays a fine mist so it is a big improvement over their regular stuff. The universal paint is about a buck more than their regular paints.

                              I do not recommend lacquer of any sort. lacquers take an incredibly long time to dry and cure. You have to wait at least a week or longer before you can sand the finish. Lacquers will chip off in chunks if you sand it before it is cured. The good thing about lacquer is that it bonds between each coat as the new coat slightly dissolves the previous coat.

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