Linehopper: An Esoteric build

[4thtry]

Re: Linehopper: An Esoteric build

Bill, are these going to fit in your little car?

Yes, they will fit. With room to spare. When I was drawing
up the initial cabinets in sketchup, I duplicated the box &
set two of these cabinets side by side. Because of the shape,
I can reduce the width storage requirement by offsetting the
cabinets just a little and then sliding them into each other.
When I do this, they fit into the rear deck with no problems.

I hope to have them ready for Dakota next year. ;)

Bill

[Wolf]

Re: Linehopper: An Esoteric build

I think your 'baseline reference' needs stated here. The top corner angle to me looks closer to 80 degrees. If your reference is 'from 90 degrees', then it makes more sense.

Otherwise- that is a neato little measuring stick....
Wolf

[4thtry]

Re: Linehopper: An Esoteric build

I think your 'baseline reference' needs stated here. The top corner angle to me looks closer to 80 degrees. If your reference is 'from 90 degrees', then it makes more sense.

Otherwise- that is a neato little measuring stick....
Wolf

Thanks for pointing that out, Wolf. The angles are probably
a little confusing because they are the actual angle that the
miter saw must be set to when making the cut. The measuring
device that I used is called a miter protractor
(Star***t model 505P-7) and it is designed to take a direct
reading of the angle it is measuring so that I can transfer
the measurement directly to my compound miter saw.

The miter protractor has two circular scales. The inside
scale is used for miter cuts and the outside scale is used
for single cuts.

The top corner angle is 79 degrees visually, but I set my miter
saw bevel to 11 degrees to cut the two panels that make up this
joint because this is the angle that my miter protractor tells
me to use.

Bill

Edit: Clarification notes added to posts 58 & 59

[lowpolyjoe]

Re: Linehopper: An Esoteric build

Thanks for pointing that out, Wolf. The angles are probably
a little confusing because they are the actual angle that the
miter saw must be set to when making the cut. The measuring
device that I used is called a miter protractor
(Star***t model 505P-7) and it is designed to take a direct
reading of the angle it is measuring so that I can transfer
the measurement directly to my compound miter saw.

The miter protractor has two circular scales. The inside
scale is used for miter cuts and the outside scale is used
for single cuts.

The top corner angle is 79 degrees visually, but I set my miter
saw bevel to 11 degrees to cut the two panels that make up this
joint because this is the angle that my miter protractor tells
me to use.

Bill

That's a cool little tool. Actually looks reasonably priced too - I might snag one or put it on the Christmas list.

[4thtry]

Re: Linehopper: An Esoteric build

Linehopper is beginning to take shape:

Glue-up of the three rear panels:



After removing the clamps, I shot close-up details of the
upper peak & rear inside corner joints:

[4thtry]

Re: Linehopper: An Esoteric build

After gluing up the top and three rear panels, I removed
the temporary center alignment box from each speaker:



And a few more pics of the semi-finished cabinets:

[4thtry]

Re: Linehopper: An Esoteric build

And a few more angles:

[4thtry]

Re: Linehopper: An Esoteric build

Hi Bill

How are planning to line up the edges of the panel with one another? Do you plan to have the edges angled? This always seems pretty daunting to me.
-Ani

I beveled the two short edges of the front, top, and back panels using my 12" dual bevel sliding compound miter saw. I determined the amount of bevel needed by using a measurement tool called a miter protractor.

Bill

[lowpolyjoe]

Re: Linehopper: An Esoteric build

Awesome progress pics!

Can't wait for more

[4thtry]

Re: Linehopper: An Esoteric build

I glued up the bottom front panel this morning & removed
the last temporary alignment box. Linehopper is now 100%
self-supporting!

[4thtry]

Re: Linehopper: An Esoteric build

You'd also have to figure out how to securely attach granite bases to the cabinets' bottoms. Presumably clearance holes through the granite that the counter-top maker would "drill" for bolts or screws into the cabinets. Might be really difficult, though, to come up with anchors in or attached to the cabinets strong enough to hold the weight of the granite.
Paul

Thanks for the tip Paul,

I checked with a couple local suppliers about granite
bases. They estimated 1.25" granite at roughly 18 to
22 lbs per square foot. Two 12x24" bases would weigh
roughly 40 lbs each. This would make the total speaker
approximately 85 lbs.

They will cut up to four 3/8" faucet holes free of charge.
A standard edge treatment is free, but if I want a custom
edge, the cost goes up significantly.

In terms of overall cost, well, lets just say this: I
could buy a pretty good pair of high end tweeters for the
cost of two small 12x24 bases! Granite is not cheap!

I would also like to keep the weight of the base at about
20 lbs so that the total speaker would be about 65 lbs. I
calculated that a 12x26x1.5" MDF base sandwich would weigh
about 13 pounds. I could then add three 3/16x2x24" steel
bar stock strips glued into the routed out center of this
base to increase the weight to 20 lbs. How does that sound?
Much cheaper and easier to lift in & out of my car.

Bill

[Wolf]

Re: Linehopper: An Esoteric build

Thanks for the tip Paul,

I checked with a couple local suppliers about granite
bases. They estimated 1.25" granite at roughly 18 to
22 lbs per square foot. Two 12x24" bases would weigh
roughly 40 lbs each. This would make the total speaker
approximately 85 lbs.

They will cut up to four 3/8" faucet holes free of charge.
A standard edge treatment is free, but if I want a custom
edge, the cost goes up significantly.

In terms of overall cost, well, lets just say this: I
could buy a pretty good pair of high end tweeters for the
cost of two small 12x24 bases! Granite is not cheap!

I would also like to keep the weight of the base at about
20 lbs so that the total speaker would be about 65 lbs. I
calculated that a 12x26x1.5" MDF base sandwich would weigh
about 13 pounds. I could then add three 3/16x2x24" steel
bar stock strips glued into the routed out center of this
base to increase the weight to 20 lbs. How does that sound?
Much cheaper and easier to lift in & out of my car.

Bill

Why not some floor-tiles?
Wolf

[4thtry]

Re: Linehopper: An Esoteric build

Why not some floor-tiles?
Wolf

Thanks for the tip, Wolf. I didn't think to ask about that. I'll check next week to see if that
will work out.

Bill

[Paul K.]

Re: Linehopper: An Esoteric build

My suggestion was made primarily because of the high density of granite and that it is very attractive in appearance, not that it was particularly thrifty. Your idea sounds very good but you might consider locating those steel bars towards the back of the base in order to counter the apparent "tipping forward" tendency of the speaker cabinet as a whole. In the end, you need to do what you think is best and I whole heartedly understand not wanting these to weigh so much you have trouble moving them around by yourself.
Paul

Thanks for the tip Paul,

I checked with a couple local suppliers about granite
bases. They estimated 1.25" granite at roughly 18 to
22 lbs per square foot. Two 12x24" bases would weigh
roughly 40 lbs each. This would make the total speaker
approximately 85 lbs.

They will cut up to four 3/8" faucet holes free of charge.
A standard edge treatment is free, but if I want a custom
edge, the cost goes up significantly.

In terms of overall cost, well, lets just say this: I
could buy a pretty good pair of high end tweeters for the
cost of two small 12x24 bases! Granite is not cheap!

I would also like to keep the weight of the base at about
20 lbs so that the total speaker would be about 65 lbs. I
calculated that a 12x26x1.5" MDF base sandwich would weigh
about 13 pounds. I could then add three 3/16x2x24" steel
bar stock strips glued into the routed out center of this
base to increase the weight to 20 lbs. How does that sound?
Much cheaper and easier to lift in & out of my car.

Bill

[6thplanet]

Re: Linehopper: An Esoteric build

I didn't permanently attach the granite bases to my mains, just drilled the holes, added threaded rod covered in a couple layers of heatshrink tubing sticking out of the feet, then set the enclosures on top of the granite.


The length and clearance between the "posts" and the holes in the granite allow it not to tilt out of the bases therefor keeping it from falling over. Just a thought...
Those cabs are looking hella cool!! The Cobras are getting ready to strike!!