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DIY Flat Panel Speaker Love

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  • Unbiasedsound
    replied
    [QUOTE=captainjack115;n1283173]
    Originally posted by Unbiasedsound View Post

    Sounds like that would work!
    Having a hard shell surrounding an otherwise dampened material sounds ideal.
    About 6 years ago I tried a thin gauge of aluminum, I then surrounded the exciter with a piece of extruded eps glued to the aluminum. The result was a nice sounding panel with good highs.
    The bad news was a huge loss in sensitivity, thinner EPS backing didn't work either, although louder the resonance of the aluminum sheeting reared it's ugly head.
    So far all materials tried for wide range have had a common denominator problem, namely edge mounting.
    I have also tried aluminum and other sheet metals but like you've mentioned the sensitivity drops and there tone is one that my ears tend to not like.

    I found this old review on Bertagnis flag ship speakers the SM300 which is the eldest sibling to my SM100's> http://www.hifi-classic.net/review/bes-sm300-289.html

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  • waxburger
    replied
    Originally posted by captainjack115 View Post

    Welcome to this thread:

    Most of us are learning as we go along, rmienke started this thread and probably has the most experience here with DML panels.
    Your cooler idea looks intriguing. Are you getting any buzzing or self noise?
    Thanks for the welcome Captain!
    I did get a little buzz while testing it, but I don't think that's what you're talking about . It really sounds pretty good to me. I'm not sure what self noise is, what would that sound like, rattles or clicks/pops, static maybe? I didn't notice any of those. I want to try making a pair of speakers with one exciter mounted on the bottom of each box, but all three of the containers I have are different sizes/dimensions, so it might not work out very well. I'll post again when I get them together.
    Cheers!

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  • captainjack115
    replied
    [QUOTE=Unbiasedsound;n1283138]
    Originally posted by captainjack115 View Post

    No, they didnt have the water based lacquer, so I just bought the one they did have just too experiment. There is a way to put the lacquer on the EPS though by using the 50/50 water/glue mixture on first let it dry then put the lacquer on it as the finishing coat....the glue/water mixture prevents the lacquer from corroding the eps.
    Sounds like that would work!
    Having a hard shell surrounding an otherwise dampened material sounds ideal.
    About 6 years ago I tried a thin gauge of aluminum, I then surrounded the exciter with a piece of extruded eps glued to the aluminum. The result was a nice sounding panel with good highs.
    The bad news was a huge loss in sensitivity, thinner EPS backing didn't work either, although louder the resonance of the aluminum sheeting reared it's ugly head.
    So far all materials tried for wide range have had a common denominator problem, namely edge mounting.

    Leave a comment:


  • Unbiasedsound
    replied
    [QUOTE=captainjack115;n1283103]
    Originally posted by Unbiasedsound View Post

    Was that lacquer water based? EPS sure is touchy when it comes to putting chemicals on it. I wonder just how much difference there would be between 1/8 birch ply and a similar thickness of quarter sawn tonewood. I have a Menards home improvement store within walking distance from me, it wouldn't hurt to ask if they have or can get tonewood.
    No, they didnt have the water based lacquer, so I just bought the one they did have just too experiment. There is a way to put the lacquer on the EPS though by using the 50/50 water/glue mixture on first let it dry then put the lacquer on it as the finishing coat....the glue/water mixture prevents the lacquer from corroding the eps.
    Last edited by Unbiasedsound; 05-25-2016, 01:10 AM.

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  • Kornbread
    replied
    What is it they make model airplanes from? Balsa? Should be cheap so if things don't work out no biggy. 1/16x12"x24" $8 http://www.nationalbalsa.com/balsa_s.../1161224sh.htm
    Try it naked first then treat. I'm thinking it should readily absorb lacquer (what might work better?) and depending on how much you put into it might have some control of flexibility and hardness.

    Just a thought.

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