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advice getting started putting Finalists together

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  • #31
    Re: advice getting started putting Finalists together

    day1: actually started to glue a cab

    garage temp: 90's

    i glued the bottom to one side (left-side when looking from back towards front)

    i glued the 6" PVC to its two braces (don't know the right word)

    as pics show i used clamps on cab side & bottom. on the PVC pieces i just put two bricks on top.

    the PVC pieces fit really tight. i.e. i had to use a rubber mallet to get the PVC inserted flush. so i doubt i would have needed clamps anyways.

    i'm just doing a few pieces at a time. not sure if that is the way. other cab might do more pieces at a time?
    Attached Files

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    • #32
      Re: advice getting started putting Finalists together

      day2: no glueing, just test fitting some pieces

      garage temp: low 90's

      note to self, don't drop MFD panels! fitting the back panel it fell over onto the garage floor and nic'ed it's corner. i lucked out as that side will be inside so i won't need a cosmetic triage for it. yes i'm very slow so i couldn't catch it in time. ;-)

      this day, i didn't glue. i noticed the bottom panel wasn't fully flush when i fitted the front panel. so i battened the side panel to the work table and put a bar up against the bottom panel to "push" it a bit so it would be 45 degrees or at least as best i could. that's an old pullup bar i had in the garage i used to use when my body could do such things.

      that's an image of the liguid nails glue i'm using. i have titebond II also but haven't used it.

      seems the front panel fits snug and is flush as good as i can get it. tomorrow i'll glue it
      Attached Files

      Comment


      • #33
        Re: advice getting started putting Finalists together

        day3: glued front panel to side & bottom panel

        garage temp: 104

        as far as i got today. too hot for me

        i got the front panel glued to side and bottom panels today. too hot in garage today to do any more.

        i'll see what tomorrow temps are like. if too hot, then day after. the heat may have tuckered me out more than i think. wait until tomorrow and see what that brings.

        feels kinda cumbersome the way i'm going about it but lack of experience dictates that i guess.

        not sure if i'll start with top panel next or back panel. maybe top panel and work towards back. i think i read that somewhere.
        Attached Files

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        • #34
          Re: advice getting started putting Finalists together

          Looks like you're making good progress. Glad to see you have the speed square out to check alignment. I tend to be sloppy about that and sometimes end up with cabinets that are a bit out of square.

          Gluing one or two panels at a time makes it easier to ensure that the joints are aligned correctly. I guess the drawback can be if you glue one joint imperfectly and let it dry, the next day when you try to glue the next panel you might have a tough time pushing the first one into position - which sounds like you may have experienced if I read your post correctly.

          For glue-up order, I think I worked back to front and Jim suggested working from one side to the other. However you proceed, just make sure you get that mid tunnel glued in place before you close up the box

          All the joints look well aligned in the pics. Hope you're enjoying the process. It's tedious, but rewarding. Good to see you're taking your time. Sorry to hear about the heat though, that definitely takes some of the fun out of woodworking.

          Comment


          • #35
            Re: advice getting started putting Finalists together

            Where are these Finalist flat packs available from? Also is the mid range the 4 or 8 ohm version? Curt's page never says, just NE 149.

            Thanks,

            Russellc

            Comment


            • #36
              Re: advice getting started putting Finalists together

              Originally posted by Russellc View Post
              Also is the mid range the 4 or 8 ohm version? Curt's page never says, just NE 149.

              Thanks,

              Russellc
              Hi Russell,

              We used the 4 ohm version.

              Jim

              Comment


              • #37
                Re: advice getting started putting Finalists together

                Thanks a little searching around I saw others with the same question, thanks for the quick response. Are there Flatpacks out there for the finalists?

                Russellc

                Comment


                • #38
                  Re: advice getting started putting Finalists together

                  Regular wood glue works great. I've used a variety of different kinds, from plain yellow Elmers to Gorilla. My go-to has been Titebond. Even my Speakerlab S2 cabinets that were glued with Elmers wood glue are still tight, strong and sealed; I used 3/4" particle board for those boxes. My Azurites were made with 3/4" PB too, using Titebond with the longer set-time. The TriTrix ported 2-ways were made with nice-quality 1" MDF using regular-set Titebond. Even though MDF and PB are "engineered" materials and not real wood, those woodworking glues work very well on those materials. Liquid Nails, I tried that on a subwoofer box I made for a friend. Had some on hand I'd used for another house repair project, so I wanted to see if it would work. It did not...I ended up having to take the sub enclosure apart, which wasn't that hard because it wasn't holding. The worst was cleaning it all off so I could use a wood glue. Maybe it was old, but it was a sealed container that was about a year old. Some have had better results than I did, so I hope yours turns out nicer than what I got. If you do another project, wood glue works very well on MDF and PB.


                  John A.
                  "Children play with b-a-l-l-s and sticks, men race, and real men race motorcycles"-John Surtees
                  Emotiva UPA-2, USP-1, ERC-1 CD
                  Yamaha KX-390 HX-Pro
                  Pioneer TX-9500 II
                  Yamaha YP-211 w/Grado GF3E+
                  Statement Monitors
                  Vintage system: Yamaha CR-420, Technics SL-PG100, Pioneer CT-F8282, Akai X-1800, Morel(T)/Vifa(W) DIY 2-way in .5 ft3
                  Photos: http://custom.smugmug.com/Electronic...#4114714_cGTBx
                  Blogs: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=2003

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    Re: advice getting started putting Finalists together

                    Originally posted by Russellc View Post
                    Thanks a little searching around I saw others with the same question, thanks for the quick response. Are there Flatpacks out there for the finalists?

                    Russellc
                    Check out the link in my signature.
                    Melby Audio - Flat Pack Speaker Kits

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      Re: advice getting started putting Finalists together

                      Originally posted by johnastockman View Post
                      Regular wood glue works great. I've used a variety of different kinds, from plain yellow Elmers to Gorilla. My go-to has been Titebond. Even my Speakerlab S2 cabinets that were glued with Elmers wood glue are still tight, strong and sealed; I used 3/4" particle board for those boxes. My Azurites were made with 3/4" PB too, using Titebond with the longer set-time. The TriTrix ported 2-ways were made with nice-quality 1" MDF using regular-set Titebond. Even though MDF and PB are "engineered" materials and not real wood, those woodworking glues work very well on those materials. Liquid Nails, I tried that on a subwoofer box I made for a friend. Had some on hand I'd used for another house repair project, so I wanted to see if it would work. It did not...I ended up having to take the sub enclosure apart, which wasn't that hard because it wasn't holding. The worst was cleaning it all off so I could use a wood glue. Maybe it was old, but it was a sealed container that was about a year old. Some have had better results than I did, so I hope yours turns out nicer than what I got. If you do another project, wood glue works very well on MDF and PB.


                      John A.
                      i still have one speaker to go, so i could use Titebond II on it and see how my mileage works.

                      its slow go for me like one panel at a time so i'll check the liquid nails bond with each fit, if it shows problems holding i'll just switch to Titebond.

                      thanks for the heads up and insight with your other builds.

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        Re: advice getting started putting Finalists together

                        day4: too hot, and i'm moving slow

                        garage temp: 102

                        since its too hot for me today, i decided to cut the foam pieces from the foam strip i got from Meniscus.

                        took clamps off from the pieces that were glued, seems ok to me but i didn't test it like a gorilla in cage would by tugging here & there. ;-)

                        i can make out the foam pieces and where they go except for the [ 2 - 18" x 6.5" ] pieces. i'm attaching a couple of images of that so maybe someone can clue me in on those pieces.

                        i thought i would glue the foam pieces in place while the cabs get built so i don't have to try that through the driver holes. if that's not the right way just let me know.
                        Attached Files

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          Re: advice getting started putting Finalists together

                          Originally posted by lowpolyjoe View Post
                          Looks like you're making good progress. Glad to see you have the speed square out to check alignment. I tend to be sloppy about that and sometimes end up with cabinets that are a bit out of square.

                          Gluing one or two panels at a time makes it easier to ensure that the joints are aligned correctly. I guess the drawback can be if you glue one joint imperfectly and let it dry, the next day when you try to glue the next panel you might have a tough time pushing the first one into position - which sounds like you may have experienced if I read your post correctly.

                          For glue-up order, I think I worked back to front and Jim suggested working from one side to the other. However you proceed, just make sure you get that mid tunnel glued in place before you close up the box

                          All the joints look well aligned in the pics. Hope you're enjoying the process. It's tedious, but rewarding. Good to see you're taking your time. Sorry to hear about the heat though, that definitely takes some of the fun out of woodworking.
                          yes, i am enjoying the process. i don't care if i'm slow, all things considered in my sphere, i'm lucky i can even try this. kinda feel like a kid with a new model to piece together. and learning new things which is fun too in the long run.

                          lets see, oh yeah, i dry fit two pieces first and see if any adjustments are needed or a tiny bit of sanding if required first. and use the square to help my eyes. then i'll glue one piece, let it dry for day, then the other piece that should fit. (should)

                          yes i did experience that with the bottom panel. i choose to put the side panel on its side versus the bottom panel on the table thinking all would be square. i guess i got it ever so slightly out of square doing it that way. but i rigged up that bar to press the bottom panel out a few degrees then fit the front panel and glue it down.

                          the glue i'm using seemed to hold and its still square. but john mentioned he hadn't much good results with the liquid nails. i'm gonna keep an eye on it as i'm doing a panel at a time and i'll switch if i see/feel the liquid nails is failing.

                          that mid tunnel looks tricky but i'll dry fit it and see. i mean i've already dry fitted it and all was good while inside the house. it already has its ends glued in place. i'll dry fit again to ensure its fit and make adjustments then. i think i'll glue it & the mid-brace-window right after i glue the top panel, that will leave the back panel and of course the other side panel.

                          let me ask, i don't recall from your images, did you glue the foam panels while you were putting a cab together or put them in via the driver holes after the cab was glued up?

                          thanks for chiming in!

                          Comment


                          • #43
                            Re: advice getting started putting Finalists together

                            Originally posted by Russellc View Post
                            Thanks a little searching around I saw others with the same question, thanks for the quick response. Are there Flatpacks out there for the finalists?

                            Russellc
                            yes, check with Melby Audio at melbyaudio [dot] com - he will be able to help you out

                            Comment


                            • #44
                              Re: advice getting started putting Finalists together

                              Maybe try it and see how it compares. I can empathize with going slower, and those high temps you deal with. I can imagine what it would be like working in my shop, with my physical issues, when it's 90+ degrees! So hats off to your resolve. Take your time. I know I'm always anxious to get a project done, which has in some instances lead to mistakes, or wanting to listen to them so much that they remain unfinished for quite a while. You'll be able to tell if the LN is not up to snuff. Higher temps like you're experiencing could be an issue for the curing process of the Liquid Nails. Wood glue, Titebond, whatever brand, do not usually have any of those details. I've built in cold shops, hot shops, high humidity and sometimes needed to allow extra time for curing/drying, but the instructions will define the parameters and any restrictions. Keep up the great work!


                              John A.
                              "Children play with b-a-l-l-s and sticks, men race, and real men race motorcycles"-John Surtees
                              Emotiva UPA-2, USP-1, ERC-1 CD
                              Yamaha KX-390 HX-Pro
                              Pioneer TX-9500 II
                              Yamaha YP-211 w/Grado GF3E+
                              Statement Monitors
                              Vintage system: Yamaha CR-420, Technics SL-PG100, Pioneer CT-F8282, Akai X-1800, Morel(T)/Vifa(W) DIY 2-way in .5 ft3
                              Photos: http://custom.smugmug.com/Electronic...#4114714_cGTBx
                              Blogs: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=2003

                              Comment


                              • #45
                                Re: advice getting started putting Finalists together

                                Originally posted by sydkz View Post
                                let me ask, i don't recall from your images, did you glue the foam panels while you were putting a cab together or put them in via the driver holes after the cab was glued up?
                                as I recall, I put the foam in after the box was completely assembled. I think putting stuff on the inside of the top panel was a pain because it had to go in through a small hole (the tweeter hole i think?). Other panels were ok, going in through the woofer cutout

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