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  • #46
    Re: advice getting started putting Finalists together

    Originally posted by Jim Holtz View Post
    I'd suggest you work from the side up so you can position the mid tunnel easily. The last two pieces you assemble should be the last side and the outer front baffle, in that order.

    HTH

    Jim
    great,, i think that's the way i'm doing it. tomorrow i hope to put the assembled mid tunnel window brace in and glue. that will leave the baffle, rear panel, and side. for that cab. then start on 2nd cab.

    #================================================= ========
    i have a question regarding the 2.5" x 7.75" port piece. the one i have as two pieces. if i screw it to the back panel and then put the extended piece on so, secure the piece with glue, its length is the 7.75". but i won't be able to remove it by pulling it from the back in order to paint the back panel when painting time arrives. with the extension, it wont fit through the hole.

    can one mount the port tube on the inside? it wouldn't intefere with the paint then.
    #================================================= ========

    see images regarding the above question


    also, how much foam do i put in the mid-tube and do i use wood clue to glue the foam on PVC or some other glue type?

    thanks
    Attached Files

    Comment


    • #47
      Re: advice getting started putting Finalists together

      Originally posted by lowpolyjoe View Post
      as I recall, I put the foam in after the box was completely assembled. I think putting stuff on the inside of the top panel was a pain because it had to go in through a small hole (the tweeter hole i think?). Other panels were ok, going in through the woofer cutout
      i see, i'm gonna try to glue most of the foam pieces into place prior to gluing the last side panel on. did you use wood glue to glue the foam onto panels?

      did you use much foam in the tweeter area, area in and around the area of port piece?

      Comment


      • #48
        Re: advice getting started putting Finalists together

        Originally posted by sydkz View Post
        great,, i think that's the way i'm doing it. tomorrow i hope to put the assembled mid tunnel window brace in and glue. that will leave the baffle, rear panel, and side. for that cab. then start on 2nd cab.

        #================================================= ========
        i have a question regarding the 2.5" x 7.75" port piece. the one i have as two pieces. if i screw it to the back panel and then put the extended piece on so, secure the piece with glue, its length is the 7.75". but i won't be able to remove it by pulling it from the back in order to paint the back panel when painting time arrives. with the extension, it wont fit through the hole.

        can one mount the port tube on the inside? it wouldn't intefere with the paint then.
        #================================================= ========

        see images regarding the above question


        also, how much foam do i put in the mid-tube and do i use wood clue to glue the foam on PVC or some other glue type?

        thanks
        Port; Cut the port hole the size of the larger part of the tube. Then you can slide the port through after its glued to the correct length. Since you have a flat pack you'll probably have to use a rasp on the hole to open it up slightly. It doesn't take much to allow the larger portion to slide through snuggly. If you mounted it on the inside, the total length to the outside of the cabinet should be 7.75". I wouldn't do it that way but that's up to you. It's functionally the same.

        Foam; Use 3M spray on contact cement for the 2" foam used on the walls. You do not need any foam above the PVC mid tube. The foam should be positioned so everything you see looking into the woofer cut out is covered with openings to pass through past the mid tube. The sides should be held back from the inner front baffle about 2" and DO NOT glue foam to the inside of the front baffle. The foam is to kill reflections so if it can't reflect, it doesn't need foam.

        1" Mid tube flat foam; Don't glue it in place. It should be cut to be flush with the back of the tube with a 45 degree bevel on the driver end. I cut the length about 6" so the front of the tube is bare. That worked best in my room. Experiment if you like but I liked 6" best. Open back mids are very flexible. You can easily alter the amount of the foam and/or insert foam plugs to adjust the back wave to your room.

        HTH

        Jim

        Comment


        • #49
          Re: advice getting started putting Finalists together

          Originally posted by Jim Holtz View Post
          You do not need any foam above the PVC mid tube.
          That top panel is what I was complaining about in my previous post. Sounds like it's a non issue since the foam is not needed up there.

          I used 3M Super 77 for my padding adhesive. I'm unsure if Jim is talking about a different spray-on product because I'm not sure I've ever heard it called contact cement.

          http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...02#post1891902

          Side note - my Finalists are hidden away in a spare bedroom while I have some work done on my house and contractors are carrying stuff in and out. Listening to TV speakers is such a bummer :(

          Comment


          • #50
            Re: advice getting started putting Finalists together

            Originally posted by lowpolyjoe View Post
            That top panel is what I was complaining about in my previous post. Sounds like it's a non issue since the foam is not needed up there.

            I used 3M Super 77 for my padding adhesive. I'm unsure if Jim is talking about a different spray-on product because I'm not sure I've ever heard it called contact cement.

            http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...02#post1891902

            Side note - my Finalists are hidden away in a spare bedroom while I have some work done on my house and contractors are carrying stuff in and out. Listening to TV speakers is such a bummer :(
            Yep, 3M Super 77 is what I use.

            Jim

            Comment


            • #51
              Re: advice getting started putting Finalists together

              Originally posted by Jim Holtz View Post
              Port; Cut the port hole the size of the larger part of the tube. Then you can slide the port through after its glued to the correct length. Since you have a flat pack you'll probably have to use a rasp on the hole to open it up slightly. It doesn't take much to allow the larger portion to slide through snuggly. If you mounted it on the inside, the total length to the outside of the cabinet should be 7.75". I wouldn't do it that way but that's up to you. It's functionally the same.

              Foam; Use 3M spray on contact cement for the 2" foam used on the walls. You do not need any foam above the PVC mid tube. The foam should be positioned so everything you see looking into the woofer cut out is covered with openings to pass through past the mid tube. The sides should be held back from the inner front baffle about 2" and DO NOT glue foam to the inside of the front baffle. The foam is to kill reflections so if it can't reflect, it doesn't need foam.

              1" Mid tube flat foam; Don't glue it in place. It should be cut to be flush with the back of the tube with a 45 degree bevel on the driver end. I cut the length about 6" so the front of the tube is bare. That worked best in my room. Experiment if you like but I liked 6" best. Open back mids are very flexible. You can easily alter the amount of the foam and/or insert foam plugs to adjust the back wave to your room.

              HTH

              Jim
              thanks for the advice. my brain was a total loss. i have a dremel and got a cheap rasp too. so i can widen that port hole.

              i see now i have plenty of foam. just to be sure, i don't need to put any foam above the window brace, yes?

              when you say no glue/foam to inside of front baffle you mean the "inner front baffle", yes?

              i don't glue any foam to top of woofer area either? that is, keep the brace windows open?

              ah ha, now i know why the 1" flat foam was shipped. that's for the mid-tube, duh. ;-)

              sorry to be dense, just want to be sure as i get somethings backwards.

              Comment


              • #52
                Re: advice getting started putting Finalists together

                Originally posted by lowpolyjoe View Post
                That top panel is what I was complaining about in my previous post. Sounds like it's a non issue since the foam is not needed up there.

                I used 3M Super 77 for my padding adhesive. I'm unsure if Jim is talking about a different spray-on product because I'm not sure I've ever heard it called contact cement.

                http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...02#post1891902

                Side note - my Finalists are hidden away in a spare bedroom while I have some work done on my house and contractors are carrying stuff in and out. Listening to TV speakers is such a bummer :(
                i saw your post on that, but couldn't wrap my head around it at first. actually, glad Jim clarified the "no foam" for above the mid-tube/brace area. simplifies a few things for me.

                i went and got some 3M Super 77. tested a spot. seriously sticky stuff! no doubt that should hold the foam.

                gonna try tonite or start tomorrow and glue some foam in place.

                indeed TV speakers are the pits. once the contractors leave you'll get your kicka$$ speakers back on line. hopefully not too long.

                Comment


                • #53
                  Re: advice getting started putting Finalists together

                  Originally posted by sydkz View Post
                  thanks for the advice. my brain was a total loss. i have a dremel and got a cheap rasp too. so i can widen that port hole.

                  i see now i have plenty of foam. just to be sure, i don't need to put any foam above the window brace, yes?

                  when you say no glue/foam to inside of front baffle you mean the "inner front baffle", yes?

                  i don't glue any foam to top of woofer area either? that is, keep the brace windows open?

                  ah ha, now i know why the 1" flat foam was shipped. that's for the mid-tube, duh. ;-)

                  sorry to be dense, just want to be sure as i get somethings backwards.
                  I was just getting ready to run some errands but I'll answer this quickly before I leave.

                  Foam is not required above the brace but I glue foam to the brace on the top of the woofer compartment with the open areas of the brace uncovered by the foam so air can pass freely to the top of the cabinet and the port. So, yes keep the brace windows open but glue foam strips to the rest of the brace on the woofer compartment side.

                  Yes, do not glue foam to the inner front baffle. The driver needs to have breathing room. The foam is to kill reflections from bouncing back into the rear of the driver.

                  Jim

                  Comment


                  • #54
                    Re: advice getting started putting Finalists together

                    Originally posted by Jim Holtz View Post
                    I was just getting ready to run some errands but I'll answer this quickly before I leave.

                    Foam is not required above the brace but I glue foam to the brace on the top of the woofer compartment with the open areas of the brace uncovered by the foam so air can pass freely to the top of the cabinet and the port. So, yes keep the brace windows open but glue foam strips to the rest of the brace on the woofer compartment side.

                    Yes, do not glue foam to the inner front baffle. The driver needs to have breathing room. The foam is to kill reflections from bouncing back into the rear of the driver.

                    Jim
                    got an image in my head now, thanks for fine tuning your directions. i can do that

                    Comment


                    • #55
                      Re: advice getting started putting Finalists together

                      day5:

                      garage temp: 103

                      moved the first cab i've been glueing inside onto the kitchen counter top. too hot in garage and heat was getting to me.

                      started glueing second cab too. have bottom, top, and inside front panel, glued and clamped. a slight departure from how i went about the first one. keeping an eye on square just to be sure. still using LN vs Titebond. Titebond drips really quick too, for me. we'll see how the LN holds up!

                      will glue the mid-tunnel with brace into first cab tonite or in morning.

                      cut the foam pieces out. Jim explained where/how they go and i finally got my head wrapped around that.

                      in a day or so i'll touch up a bit of the x-over with colored wires and speaker terminals. MelbyAudio did all the hard work on them though. colored wires won't make them sound any better, just helps me minimize hooking things up wrong as i have a tendency to do.

                      i'll post some images after some of this gets completed.

                      Comment


                      • #56
                        Re: advice getting started putting Finalists together

                        @Jim,

                        the switch i have is a little large to fit on the terminal terminal plates i have. its rated at 20A 125V. will a 3A 125V spst switch work? a smaller one would fit on these terminal plates better.

                        Comment


                        • #57
                          Re: advice getting started putting Finalists together

                          Originally posted by sydkz View Post
                          @Jim,

                          the switch i have is a little large to fit on the terminal terminal plates i have. its rated at 20A 125V. will a 3A 125V spst switch work? a smaller one would fit on these terminal plates better.
                          Curt speced the switch. Here's what he suggested;

                          http://www.parts-express.com/spst-he...inals--060-370

                          That should work with this terminal cup which is the one I used in my build;

                          http://www.parts-express.com/gold-ba...l-cup--260-311

                          If that doesn't work for you, contact Curt to see if the lighter duty switch would be ok.

                          Jim

                          Comment


                          • #58
                            Re: advice getting started putting Finalists together

                            day 6-7:

                            working on build inside now. still too hot in garage, 103 today. house is messy-er than usual but the cats & gremlins don't seem to mind. if i don't trip over something i'll count my blessings. ;-)

                            note: "days listed" are actual doing something with this build. some days i don't do anything. heat, dry times, health, etc.


                            on the second cabinet i torqued two clamps glueing the mid-tunnel assembly too much. well, actually i think i didn't position them correctly like i did with the first cabinet. i knew i was a bit sick that day in that i shouldn't be doing anything, but got in a bit of a hurry. my physical therapist will be happy i could torque something that well! darn near couldn't un-torgue them though, but two hands got it done.

                            this mid-tunnel assembly was around ~1/16" too long in that the back panel wasn't fitting flush enough for me. so i sanded on one end of the mid-tunnel assembly, the end that fits flush with the back panel. i sanded a lil too much and not flush either. this is due to my inexperience, no youthful steadiness, etc.

                            but the back panel fits flush now. i will just need to do a minor triage to that crack and fill in a bit of space between the back panel and the MDF piece at end of the tunnel. i figure a little wood glue, wood filler, and two c-clamps should brace up my error ok. i'm sure some light sanding too and back panel should fit flush then.

                            made it to HDepot to get some elmer's wood filler and a tube of liquid nails. one tube of LQ got me this far so not bad at all. LQ seems to be holding well. made it to fry's to get some terminals for XOver board. i liked how "lowpolyjoe" added those to his XOver build. picked up a 3' x 3/4" wooden dowl to cut 2.5" pieces to mount the XOver board into the bottom panel in cabinet. that idea might not work but i got it anyways. if not, i'll do like "lowpolyjoe" did with his wooden standoffs for XOver board.

                            making steady progress, i'll upload a couple images of my torque error (might help some else to not make same mistake)
                            Attached Files

                            Comment


                            • #59
                              Re: advice getting started putting Finalists together

                              Originally posted by Jim Holtz View Post
                              Curt speced the switch. Here's what he suggested;

                              http://www.parts-express.com/spst-he...inals--060-370

                              That should work with this terminal cup which is the one I used in my build;

                              http://www.parts-express.com/gold-ba...l-cup--260-311

                              If that doesn't work for you, contact Curt to see if the lighter duty switch would be ok.

                              Jim
                              thanks much for your reply. will check out the links and get something ordered.

                              Comment


                              • #60
                                Re: advice getting started putting Finalists together

                                Looking good! let me know if that mid tunnel brace does not patch up nice. We could probably work out a way to get you a new one if need be.
                                Melby Audio - Flat Pack Speaker Kits

                                Comment

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