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Alternate take on Chris Perez's Cinema Tablet radio

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  • #16
    Re: Alternate take on Chris Perez's Cinema Tablet radio

    I absolutely love your projects. Are you intending on using the 2.1 amp?
    "A dirty shop is an unsafe shop, if you injure yourself in a clean shop you are just stupid" - Coach Kupchinsky

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    • #17
      Re: Alternate take on Chris Perez's Cinema Tablet radio

      Originally posted by Gordy View Post
      I absolutely love your projects. Are you intending on using the 2.1 amp?
      Thanks for the kind words Gordy,

      Yep, I'm basically duplicating Chris Perez's project electrics wise, with the exception of having the choice for a 1/8" input jack and a switch to toggle between jack and BT inputs. I think his just had BT input. That little 2.1 amp is surprisingly good. I've used a bunch of them and just ordered a bunch more.

      I just had a bit more space since I went upward to get the box volumes closer to optimum. Chris totally engineered the heck out of his second tablet sound system in an effort to minimize it's size to the utmost, but I have more leeway size-wise. Plus, I think this may end up being the recipients only sound system believe it or not, so I'm hoping for as much bass extension as I can muster given the size limitations.

      TomZ
      *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
      *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

      *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

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      • #18
        Re: Alternate take on Chris Perez's Cinema Tablet radio

        Those 45s are lined up perfectly, nice work! This is a pretty cool project

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        • #19
          Re: Alternate take on Chris Perez's Cinema Tablet radio

          Originally posted by greywarden View Post
          Those 45s are lined up perfectly, nice work! This is a pretty cool project
          Thanks, having a real good table saw helps. I have a pretty decent Rigid from 7-8 years ago. It has a cast iron base and extenders. I think you mentioned that your father had a Rigid? I think they're pretty nice saws. Mine's run like a champ since new, and survived two moves. I disassembled between moves, of course.

          TomZ
          *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
          *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

          *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

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          • #20
            Re: Alternate take on Chris Perez's Cinema Tablet radio

            Looks great Tom!

            How do you clamp your mitered boxes?

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            • #21
              Re: Alternate take on Chris Perez's Cinema Tablet radio

              Originally posted by mtmpenn View Post
              Looks great Tom!

              How do you clamp your mitered boxes?
              Thanks a lot,
              if you look at post #15 the second pic I think shows a strap going around what will end up being the top/bottom and sides of the box. That's what I used for those pieces. It's one pretty much like this one: http://www.framing4yourself.com/shop/products/4-19/512/

              I then laid the assembly down on the work table with the miters facing up and glued on what would be the front of the box by basically pressing down and tapping it with my knuckles until it looked like it was in perfect position. Then I took a large contractors black trash bag which is filled with several smaller bags of play sand... probably 70-80 lbs. of it and laid it on top of the box. The weight kept it clamped down and prevented any moving of that panel. I placed the bag of sand on top slowly so I didn't shift that panel from it's position.

              When I took the sand bag off later, the miter joint was basically seamless and perfect. Like I said, having a great table saw really is the key, and making the joints ever-so-slightly tighter at the exterior of the miter than the inside. I think close to 44 degrees give or take seems to work well for me. That assures that the joint will be nice and tight and won't show at all in the future.

              TomZ
              *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
              *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

              *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

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              • #22
                Re: Alternate take on Chris Perez's Cinema Tablet radio

                I got a bit of time to finish this up finally. Not in time for Christmas, but close enough I hope.



                There's a lot of wires in there:

                I ran the two ND91's in series and the small Aura's parallel just as Chris did. I also ported those two chambers, and it's kind of funny to feel so much air moving from those two little buggers.

                The bluetooth module sits in the lower bass chamber opposite the port. There was no room to house it in the "electronics" box at the top. It seems to have about 20' reception from where it sits with my iPad mini.



                Almost finished product:

                You can see the 5.5" nickel drawer pulls I used for the base. Insert the supplied screws snugly with threadlock, cut off the head leaving about 3/4" of raw bolt protruding... drill the holes in the cabinet slightly smaller than the threads and epoxy them in, tapping them home with a mallet. It gives the down-firing port room to breathe and looks kind of cool I think. They're a smidge pricey though, like $6-7 each. I thought they were worth it, though.



                I did print out a label on the computer and laminated it. It shows what the switches and buttons are for. It's pretty simple.

                The big switch in the front is the power switch. The 3.5mm plug on the right is the input.
                The switch in the back middle is the source switch. I wanted to have the switch point to the plug for that input and the other way for the Bluetooth, but I forgot that the switch position is opposite the terminals on the bottom, and I didn't have enough wire to loosen and turn in 180 degrees, so this is how it stays.

                The push button on the left side is a normally closed switch to temporarily break the power to the bluetooth module to reset it for another device if necessary (it's usually always powered on). I'm actually not clear on how that thing actually works, my wife's phone and my iPad seem to work differently with it, but I included the push button just in case it was helpful... Chris mentioned that he needed to turn off/on the tablet cinema to reset the B/T I thought, could be wrong there, though. It's the Sure unit, this one: http://www.parts-express.com/sure-el...2-vdc--320-351 yeah, it's $25, by far the most expensive component of this project, but it works very well, I never thought I'd say this but the quality is so good I don't feel the need to use the wire/plug at all. PE has another Bluetooth board I've messed with it, but this Sure unit is better and worth the extra $$$ for a much higher quality sound in my opinion.



                I didn't route the groove like I was planning to. Yeah, I chickened out...buck, buck, buck I actually had a pretty hard time with this, things didn't turn out exactly like I planned and it was a bit of a struggle for me actually. I've been sick lately and have also had a few health problems that just seemed to make everything difficult. I was afraid I would screw this thing up completely. Just because a project is small, doesn't mean it's easier to do -- in fact, I'd say this was one of the hardest projects I've done, certainly in terms of patience. I found it hard to get my fat Shrek fingers into the little areas that needed to have stuff put in them.

                I used PE's new knob for the volume control: http://www.parts-express.com/marshal...lver--240-2206 A fantastic value at under a buck and has good 'finger traction' as well as a nice machined alum. cap. I like those a lot; they come in gold finish too.

                It does sound nice, though. Really nice. The little Aura's draw no attention to themselves at all and the blend with the ND91's pretty close to perfect volume-wise; I don't regret not including a bass adjustment potentiometer. I'm using it as much as possible before it goes to it's true owners to shake out any problems, and it gets loud enough in the kitchen to have to really raise your voice to be heard. Those little ND91's stay pretty clean sounding even when flappa'lappin!

                So, thanks Chris for publishing your "Tablet Cinema" design... which is pretty much exactly what I did here electronics wise, just a slightly larger, and MUCH easier execution. I admire Chris for seeing that project through, I bet it was much harder to execute than it looks. Small projects are tough... give me a tower speaker any day!

                TomZ
                Last edited by tomzarbo; 12-31-2015, 11:34 AM. Reason: forgot the knob
                *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
                *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

                *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

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